Cyprus – A Closer Look, Part 2: The Legendary Zenobia
Continuing her journey through Cyprus’s underwater world, Jane Morgan finally fulfils a decades-long dream: diving the legendary wreck of the Zenobia…
I remember being captivated by the news reports on TV in June 1980, watching as the Ro-Ro ferry MS Zenobia sank with over 100 vehicles on board. Back then, it never crossed my mind that one day I would be diving the very wreck I saw on the screen.
LARNACA
After an excellent warm-up day diving two wrecks in Limassol (read Part 1 here), the excitement was undeniable on day two as I was finally about to fulfil a long-held dream. It had been 34 years since I completed my BSAC novice course in Cyprus, and now I was back, this time with the experience and qualifications to dive in Larnaca – home to one of the world’s top ten wreck dives!
Over the years, the sinking of the Zenobia has sparked countless stories and conspiracy theories, which is understandable, given the value of the cargo, estimated at over $200 million. Remarkably, most of it still rests on the seabed, untouched, as no salvage operation has ever been undertaken.
But the facts, as best understood, are straightforward. The Zenobia was on her maiden voyage and after leaving Slovenia, she sailed towards Syria and then onto Cyprus. The captain struggled with computer malfunctions in the ballast system early on, and by the time she reached Cyprus the situation had worsened to the point the captain was asked to leave the harbour and anchor a mile offshore to avoid obstructing port traffic. Engineers attempted to pump water from the ballast tanks, but the listing worsened as the lorries on board started to shift dangerously. After three tense days, in the early hours of June 7th, 1980, the Zenobia finally succumbed and slipped beneath the surface.
The Zenobia now lies on her port side in 17 to 42 metres of water, just under a mile off the coast of Larnaca. As a British diver, I’ve explored countless wrecks over the years, but none compare to this one. At 172 metres long, with a 28-metre beam, weighing 10,000 tons, and still carrying her full load of 108 articulated lorries and heavy machinery, the Zenobia is truly extraordinary. Add to that the thriving marine life she attracts, and it’s easy to see why this is, without question, the best wreck dive I’ve ever experienced.
Our first dive of the day focused on exploring the exterior of the wreck. We descended to around 25–27 metres, landing beside an incredibly striking propeller—now claimed by a school of lionfish. From there, we circled the stern and continued along the port side, where piles of lorries, once suspended by chains, now lie scattered across the bottom of the deck. We passed a lifeboat, jealously guarded by a large, territorial grouper, before making our way to the bow, where an enormous anchor still rests proudly in place. There’s so much to see on the Zenobia that each dive feels like just scratching the surface. You could easily do every route twice and still discover something new. The wreck’s angle, however, can be disorienting, especially once you start exploring the interior.
On our second dive, we descended past the lifeboats and bridge, entering through a hatch into what was once the restaurant. This is where things take a surreal turn. The tartan carpet, remarkably well-preserved, now clings to the wall, confusing your sense of orientation. We explored the bar area, still complete with its microwave and coffee machine, before swimming down a narrow corridor. Inside, we found a small toilet and sink, then continued into the accommodation section which is an enclosed corridor with no direct exit.
Further on we emerged into one of the cargo holds, where blue plastic detergent bottles, dislodged from their trucks, now cling to what is effectively the ceiling. The whole experience feels like navigating a tilted, underwater time capsule.
One day simply wasn’t enough as there’s still so much more to explore, with countless trucks, cargo holds, and hidden corners waiting to be discovered. Honestly, I don’t think even a full week diving the Zenobia would feel like too much. The visibility on the outside of the wreck can be an extraordinary 30-50m, although you need to keep your buoyancy in check when penetrating as with any wreck it is possible to kick up the silt.
We enjoyed a great day out to the ‘Zen’ on the MV Queen Zenobia, operated by Zenobia Divers. It has a very spacious back deck for kitting up, an upstairs sundeck, indoor and outdoor toilets and you can look forward to a great lunch and BBQ after the second dive.
My next instalment from Cyprus will be from MUSAN Museum of Underwater Sculpture in Ayia Napa.
Book your next diving adventure in Cyprus with Oyster Diving: https://oysterdiving.com
Thank you to CyDive for guiding us around the Zenobia (www.cydive.com), and Zenobia Divers for a fantastic day on MS Queen Zenobia (www.zenobiadivers.com).
Visit Cyprus: https://www.visitcyprus.com
