Coral Eye: Bangka Island’s Rising Star

It’s not a secret that I have a soft spot in my heart for North Sulawesi. I first travelled there about 15 years ago, and I’ve been in love with it ever since. And of course, those who know the area know of Bunaken National Park. Siladen Resort and Spa on Siladen Island has been a benchmark here for years, the place where divers could indulge in a bit of barefoot luxury between dives on those magnificent walls. But now the jewel of North Sulawesi has a little sister, and she’s growing up fast. Her name is Coral Eye, and she’s on Bangka Island, a short boat ride away. It may have started life as a marine research station, but today it has blossomed into something else entirely; a stylish, welcoming base for divers, travellers, and anyone who just wants to feel close to the sea.

I’ve been lucky enough to watch this transformation unfold, visiting several times in the past couple of years. The original resort I first visited back in 2023 was very much still a marine outpost in line with the founder’s vision. But now has really found its stride and has transformed into this new rising star.

A Tale of Two Islands

What makes Coral Eye so special is not just what’s on Bangka, but how beautifully it pairs with Siladen. Think of it as a two-part journey. You start in Siladen in the heart of Bunaken National Park, where the dives are big and bold: walls that plunge into the blue, green turtles gliding past as if they own the place, and barrel sponges so large you could practically hide inside them.

But then you hop across to Bangka, and the mood shifts entirely. Suddenly, it’s not about drama and scale, but colour and life. Here, the soft corals explode in every shade you can imagine, from flamingo pink to tangerine orange, the kind of colours that make you blink into your mask just to be sure you’re not dreaming.

On my last trip, I was travelling with a small group of underwater photographers. These were people who had dived everywhere. More than once I heard someone surface from a Bangka dive and say, “This is as good as Raja.” A couple even whispered that maybe, just maybe, it was better. And I knew they weren’t just being polite. There are moments here where the reefs really do feel world-class, but without the crowds.

The Living Heart of Sahaung Reef

No trip to Bangka would be complete without Sahaung Reef. It’s the site that people always talk about for years after visiting, and for good reason.

The entry itself is unremarkable: a simple roll back off the boat into clear blue water. But then you look down, and there it is:  enormous pinnacles, bursting with life. They rise up from the depths like underwater cathedrals, and every surface is draped in soft corals that sway in the current.

This is not a quiet reef. It pulses with movement. Schools of fusiliers sweep past in silver ribbons. Trevally prowl the edges, flashing blue and silver as they hunt. On a good day, you’ll spot a white-tip reef shark cruising by, or snoozing under one of the huge table corals. On the drop off, blue-line snapper school in their hundreds, teasing photographers with incredible photographic opportunities, but always splitting at the last moment to ruin your composition. 

But the stars of the show, at least for me, were the convict gobies. Picture thousands of tiny black-and-white fish, hugging the reef in such thick numbers that at times you can’t see the coral beneath. They swirl and shift as one, creating hypnotic patterns. I could have watched them for hours, and in fact, I often did.

It was only later that I discovered their curious secret: these little fish don’t stay this way forever. As they grow, they transform into eel-like adults that vanish into the reef, living the rest of their days out of sight. That fleeting stage, where they form those mesmerising clouds, is something most divers never think twice about. For me, it felt like stumbling across a hidden chapter in the ocean’s story.

Then, of course, there are the giant frogfish. Always the tricksters, they blend so perfectly with the sponges that you’d swear they weren’t there. Until they yawn or lunge, revealing themselves in that wonderfully awkward frogfish way. But don’t worry, the guides here have excellent eyes and they will defeat their camouflage and point them out to you.

Sahaung Reef is breathtaking, but it isn’t always accessible. The currents can rip, carrying a surface marker buoy is an essential, but the guides at Coral Eye know this site inside out. They time the dives to perfection, dropping you in at just the right moment to catch the show without the stress. It’s the kind of guiding that only comes from people who truly live with the sea.

The Mangroves: A Dive Few Ask For

If Sahaung is the headline act, then the mangroves are the hidden track — the one that doesn’t make the playlist but ends up being unforgettable.

Just a few hundred metres from the Resort, we really wanted to visit this area, but our guides were surprised when we asked to dive the mangroves. Apparently, nobody ever asks. But we insisted, and I’m glad we did.

The mangroves might not have the instant visual punch of the open reef, but once you sink below the surface, they have their own kind of magic. The water is shallow, often only a couple of metres deep. The visibility can be murky. At first glance, it doesn’t look like much. But once you slip in and your eyes adjust, it becomes something extraordinary.

The roots twist down into the water like dark sculptures, and beams of sunlight pierce through in shafts of gold. It’s moody, almost theatrical and for us photographers, it was heaven.

As I hovered in the shadows, I remembered a line from the late Martin Edge, who taught me much of what I know about underwater photography: “See the light, but stay out of the light.” It was the perfect mantra here. In the shadows, the details revealed themselves, archerfish patrolling the surface, ready to spit streams of water at unsuspecting insects. Tiny nudibranchs inch their way across the submerged roots. Baby barracuda hiding nervously from the predators they’ll one day become themselves.

The sound was different too. Reefs often feel loud and busy, full of the constant crackle of snapping shrimp and the chatter of reef fish. The mangroves were quieter, more contemplative. You could hear the occasional pop or distant splash, but mostly it was just the sound of your own bubbles and the creak of the mangrove roots above. It felt like being let in on a secret world, one that very few divers ever think to explore.

We loved it so much that we came back again and again, each time finding something new. It’s not the sort of dive everyone will appreciate, but if you care about the quieter side of the ocean, don’t miss it.

The House Reef: A Last-Day Treat

Most divers spend their last day before flying moping around the resort, but at Coral Eye, the house reef makes it a joy.

You can wade in straight from the beach, and within a few metres you’re face-to-face with anemones and their feisty clownfish guardians. Some were so shallow I could greet them standing up, mask half submerged. I swear those little fish came to recognise me by the end of the week.

Walk out along the jetty, and the scene only grows. Barracuda hang lazily beneath the structure. Schools of Scad shimmer like quicksilver as trevally dash in to hunt. The jetty legs themselves are covered in sea fans and corals, like nature’s own underwater art installation.

Swim further east and you’ll find coral gardens so pristine they could rival anywhere in the world. I spent many blissful hours just floating there, surrounded by sergeant majors, with longfin batfish gliding past as if I were part of their shoal. It was, quite simply, some of the best snorkelling I’ve ever done.

Life Above the Waves

But Coral Eye isn’t only about the diving. The resort itself is part of the story. When I first visited in 2023, the heart of the place was a single, striking Pyramid-shaped building. It was centred around a sunken dining table that became the hub of life. There was a bar, a lounge, a library, and a mezzanine floor with accommodation above. The architecture was incredibly breathtaking and not something I’ve often seen on my Dive travels. 

The rooms were clean, bright, with lots of polished concrete, which I happen to love, and a slick, modern feel. It still carried traces of its scientific roots, encouraging guests to mingle and share stories.

By the time I returned this summer, Coral Eye had blossomed. New villas had appeared, some with their own pools. A larger central building now housed a restaurant, bar, and saltwater pool. The architecture stayed true to the original, using local wood, terrazzo flooring, and clean lines that gave it an elegant but understated feel.

Despite the growth, Coral Eye has kept its soul. It’s chic, yes, but it’s also refreshingly barefoot. Within hours of arriving, my flip-flops were abandoned by the door of my room, and I never needed them again until I left. Having Italian owners meant the food was an Asian Italian fusion that was simply divine. Believe it or not, I had the best ravioli dish of my entire life right here.

The redevelopment isn’t quite finished. Next on the cards is a brand-new spa, and if they model it upon Siladen’s spa, then I’m going to take a punt and say that it’s going to be quite amazing. I was told it’s going to be finished by summer 2026. I can’t wait to see it and, of course, have a massage. 

Why Coral Eye Belongs on Your List

Bangka has often been seen as an add-on, a side trip to Bunaken National Park or Lembeh. But Coral Eye changes that. It’s not just a convenient extra stop; it’s a destination worth the journey in its own right.

The diving is spectacular: vibrant, diverse, and still wonderfully uncrowded. The topside experience is stylish but relaxed, the kind of place where you feel indulged without ever feeling stiff. And the sense of community, whether you’re chatting with guides, swapping photos with fellow divers, or simply sharing a beer on the beach, there is a warmth here that polished resorts often lack.

So yes, for me, Siladen will always be the jewel. But Coral Eye has grown into something more than just the little sister. It’s carving out its own identity, vibrant, elegant, and unforgettable. If you love chilled vibes, great food, and fantastic diving in a spectacular location, then it’s waiting for you at Coral Eye on Bangka Island, Sulawesi.