News
Tulamben, Bali: USAT Liberty, Bumpheads and Bargibanti
The smell of stale pee hung like a miasma in the still early morning air over the entry point to the USAT Liberty Wreck in Tulamben. It was still dark at 5.45am when we crept out of our beautifully cool veranda villa in the Mimpi Boutique Hotel Resort for our eagerly anticipated Bump Head Parrot fish encounter. We walked along the sea wall that protects the beach front resorts from the ravages of the ocean, crunching over the black stone volcanic rubble in our sandals as the sky lightened and the sea began to glow.
Tulamben is a small resort village in the East Coast of Bali, nestled against the towering Mt Agung, one of Bali’s three active volcanoes. It depends almost entirely on divers for its income who come to explore the wreck of the USAT Liberty, a deliberately beached WW2 ship that was landlocked for 20 years until 1963 when the volcano erupted, killing over a thousand people and finally sinking the ship. It now lies in a depth varying from just 6m down to 28m of water, wedged against the undersea slope.
With natural disaster always lurking in the background, and an active volcano to propitiate, the Balinese practice a very active form of animist Hinduism in their daily lives. They surround themselves with well tended gardens and natural beauty. Even the most humble dwelling often has an exquisite pot or planting on the pavement, and almost every family has a temple, or sacred place. Daily offerings are made to the gods of earth, wind, water and fire. It is almost as though the Balinese are afraid their environment will suddenly disappear, so they make everything beautiful while they can, asking help from their gods to keep their world safe.
There are divers swarming over the wreck from 7am when the porters arrive to carry the tanks to the ocean side, until 10pm when the last night divers surface. Incredibly, where every dive entry point we visited had gear washing facilities, ablutions and loos, this one with the most diver traffic has only a few bamboo platforms to kit up on, hence the stench of pee. All the gear is carried from the resorts on the heads of the staunch Balinese women porters.
35 year old Nengah carries 2 sets of kit on her head
Ages range from 24 to 50 years old, and most of the women are married with children. They move in a circuit, from kit-up and ablution area with full kits to entry point returning with empty cylinders. They are paid by the dive Operators through the Dive Guides and most have worked for the 11 years since the system’s inception.
We met Parman, our personal dive guide, at the restaurant rendezvous and he was on his cell to a friend with a motorcycle to organise for our gear to be transported the 200m to the entry point, as it was too early for the porters. We strapped on our weight belts, picked up our fins and wearing our Rockies over our booties we stumbled across the stones and boulders to the entry point. After 30min, no gear, the sun was showing and the dive boats had arrived, depositing 20 divers onto the wreck. By 6:30am it was clearly too late for the parrot fish encounter, but the gear arrived and we kitted up anyway.
The Bump Heads sleep in the wreck and we had seen one on our night dive the previous evening, sleeping under an overhang. They leave at sunrise to disperse across the reef, grazing on the coral and trying to convert the black volcanic silt to white coral sand with their droppings. A single Bumphead consumes 5 tonnes of coral in a year. You rarely find them in the wreck after sunrise. Surprisingly Parman finned away from the Liberty. We soon saw why. As we reached the 11m coral line, 43 Bumphead Parrot fish arrived for breakfast. Like a bovine herd, they hung beside us, benignly sleepy-eyed, the little ones pushing and shoving at each other while the gigantic herd bull tried to maintain order. He had an enormous bump, so big there was room for a tenacious remora, which clung optimistically to the edge of it.
Side on they are huge, but they are almost two dimensional, as they are very narrow creatures. As young fish they are a drab grey, but as they get older and bigger, their colour lightens to an exquisite turquoise blue with rich blue fin outlines. When the dominant male in an area dies, the largest female changes her sex and gains the stature and ponderous gravitas of an elder statesman, taking over the role of herd bull. There can be only one male in any area.
We headed back to the Liberty and plunged straight down to 34m, where Parman expected to find the exquisite minute pink pygmy seahorse. At this depth our bottom time was limited, so we had 8 minutes to find him. As the deco warnings on our computers began to flash Parman’s rattle sounded, and there he was. Minutely exquisite, clinging tenaciously to his Gorgonian Fan, we saw the Pink Pygmy Seahorse, (Hipocampus Bargibanti) and then to top off a perfect dive, the Dragon Shrimp ((Phyllognatha ceratophthalmus).
We ascended through the wreck, passing stunning hard and soft corals, Catfaced Rock Cod, dozens of unfamiliar butterfly fishes, two relaxed Regal Angelfish and a huge Malabar rock cod. There were several beautiful Oriental Sweet lips relaxing on the sand against a fallen boom, with hungry goatfish burrowing in the sand around them. A patch of garden eels waved in the slight current as we ascended, and to complete a perfect dive, a huge school of kingfish circled us overhead, hoping we would stir up a meal for them at the 3m mark.
We trudged back for breakfast through an oregano field filled with grazing goats, and were stunned by the ancient wisdom of a nation that had the foresight to pre-season its meat. Every meal we had in Bali was deliciously seasoned, elegantly served by exquisite Balinese hostesses and the most expensive dish, pre-ordered Bali Roast Goose was around £2.50 per person, for 3 courses.
Words: Jill Holloway
Images: David Holloway
Copyright: Ocean Spirit www.osdiving.com
Ho Ho Ho! Vobster Quay’s recording-breaking charity Santa diving event returns on Sunday 15th December 2024 for another round of festive fundraising frivolities. Run in aid of the Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI) and Help For Heroes, this ever-popular annual fundraising event aims to raise sack-loads of cash for these two very deserving charities.
Divers of all levels are invited to grab their Santa outfits – and as much festive cheer as they can muster – and head down to Vobster Quay near Mells, Somerset for a mass sponsored Santa dive in aid of charity. In previous years, the event has attracted divers from the far corners of the UK to join in the festive merriment for a final festive dive before the Christmas and New Year break. Back in 2015, the event smashed the world record for the most Santa divers with 188 divers taking to the waters donning their festive finery – a record that remains unbeaten to this day!
Vobster Santas isn’t just about setting records – it’s also about raising some serious cash for charity. Vobster Quay encourages all divers to get into the spirit of the season to raise much-needed funds for two very deserving charities – the Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI) and Help For Heroes.
Through individual sponsorship and online donations, divers can invite their friends, family and work colleagues to sponsor them to plunge into the balmy waters of Vobster Quay dressed in full festive finery. Since the very first Santa dive in 2007, the event has raised over £52,000 for charity. “It’s been over 17 years since the very first charity Santa dive took place at Vobster Quay and every year the event just keeps getting bigger and better” enthused Vobster Quay owner, Amy Stanton.
“Vobster Santas is a great way for divers to say a massive thank you to the both the RNLI and Help For Heroes – two very deserving charities close to our hearts. We’re immensely proud of all that Vobster Santas has achieved and hope that even more divers will join this year’s event on Sunday 15th December. I’m confident that we can make Vobster Santas 2024 the biggest yet!”.
Divers wishing to participate can get involved by simply registering their attendance at
www.vobster.com/event-vobstersantas.php.
Blogs
Dive into Adventure at Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa: The Ultimate Diving Destination in the Maldives
Tucked away in the remote northern Haa Alifu Atoll, Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa is a premier destination for anyone seeking an unforgettable underwater experience. With over 30 dive sites to explore, divers of all levels can witness the unique and mesmerising beauty of the underwater world. Whether you’re a seasoned diver or new to the sport, Hideaway offers an exceptional diving adventure that is not to be missed.
Explore the Beauty Beneath the Surface
Hideaway is perfectly situated near some of the most spectacular dive sites in the Maldives. The dive school and team at Hideaway offer a very personalised experience to ensure each diver gets an interactive, immersive experience.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Unique dive spots such as Theefaridhoo Thila (Heaven and Hell) as one of the 50 best dive sites in the whole of the Maldives, known for its beautiful soft coral gardens.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
As the resort is located next to a channel which gives guests surprise visits from eagle rays, manta rays, guitar sharks and more.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
One of the standout features of diving in the Haa Alifu Atoll is the abundance of rare and exotic marine species. The area is known for sightings of whale sharks, manta rays, turtles, and a variety of colorful reef fish. Diving at Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa offers a rare opportunity to encounter these creatures in their natural habitat, creating lifelong memories for guests.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Whether you’re exploring deep coral gardens, dramatic overhangs, or vibrant reef walls, each dive offers something new and exciting. The visibility in the Maldives is exceptional, often exceeding 30 meters, making it ideal for both underwater photography and general exploration.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Diving for All Levels
At Hideaway, we believe that everyone should have the opportunity to experience the thrill of diving. That’s why we cater to divers of all levels, from beginners to experienced professionals. Our professional dive center, led by expert instructors, offers a range of courses and guided dives. If you’re new to diving, you can start with an introductory course that will teach you the basics of scuba diving in a safe and controlled environment.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
For more experienced divers, we offer advanced dive courses and guided excursions to some of the more challenging dive sites. Our instructors are knowledgeable and passionate about the local marine life, ensuring that every dive is not only safe but also informative and enjoyable.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Exclusive Diving Offer
To make your stay even more unforgettable, Hideaway is offering an exclusive diving package designed to enhance your experience both above and below the water. When you book a minimum 7-night stay, you’ll receive:
- 35% discount on room rates.
- Complimentary diving: 3 dives per person for 2 guests, allowing you to experience the beauty of the Maldives underwater world.
- Free meal plan upgrade: enjoy a complimentary upgrade from Bed & Breakfast to Half Board, or from Half Board to Full Board. Guests who prefer the White Platinum Plan (WPP) can avail it at a discounted rate.
This incredible offer provides the perfect opportunity to experience world-class diving while enjoying all the luxury and comfort that Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa is known for.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Combinable Offers for Even More Value
This diving offer can also be combined with our Anniversary and Honeymoon offers, allowing you to create the perfect celebration package. Whether you’re celebrating a milestone or simply seeking a romantic getaway, this offer ensures that you can enjoy the best of both worlds – luxurious accommodations and unforgettable diving adventures.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Terms & Conditions
- This offer is available exclusively for bookings made through the official Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa website using a specific booking code.
- The offer cannot be combined with other promotions available on the website or through other channels, nor can it be redeemed for cash.
- All dives are subject to weather conditions, ensuring the safety and enjoyment of all guests.
- Black-out dates: This offer is not available from 24th December 2024 to 9th January 2025.
To book this exquisite offer, use the Promo Code: SCUBA24FD
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Hideaway is not just a resort; it’s a sanctuary for those seeking peace, adventure, and luxury. With spacious villas, private pools, and world-class dining options, the resort offers everything you need for a perfect holiday. From tennis, golf, gym, cycling to the exquisite underwater activities, unique dining options, Hideaway has something for everyone. And for diving enthusiasts, it provides an unparalleled opportunity to explore some of the most beautiful dive sites in the world.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Our dive center is fully equipped with state-of-the-art gear, ensuring that every dive is safe, comfortable, and enjoyable. Our instructors are passionate about the underwater world and are eager to share their knowledge with you, whether it’s your first dive or your 100th.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
The Ultimate Dive Adventure Awaits
If you’re looking for an unforgettable diving holiday in the Maldives, look no further than Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa. With over 30 dive sites, unique marine life, and exclusive offers, we provide the ultimate underwater experience. Whether you’re celebrating a special occasion or simply seeking adventure, our diving package offers exceptional value and incredible memories.
Book now through our official website to take advantage of this exclusive offer and prepare for the dive adventure of a lifetime.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Call: +960 650-1515
Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
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