Travel Stories
The Indonesian Throughflow
As you head out from the shores of east Bali on your morning dive you are surrounded by a host of tiny outrigger fishing boats, their sails flashing in the sunlight as they dance over the waves. It is a unique, entrancing and inspiring sight, all the more so because this is a very special place.
These fishermen (and you in your dive boat) are scudding over waters that lie on the cusp of geological and biological change. In the past, at times of low sea levels, this coastline marked the very tip of a massive Eurasian Continent. During those periods you could have walked all the way from Bali to Paris without getting your feet wet. However, even when the world’s oceans were at their lowest ebb, you could never have gone any further east without harnessing wind or mechanical power, due to the depth of the chasm between Bali and Lombok, the next island in the chain.
Wallace’s Genius
In the 19th century the great naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace spent time in the islands of what is now Indonesia and remarked on how different the species of bird and animal living in the west of the archipelago were from those that inhabited the east. His findings led him to draw a line on a chart that ran through the Makassar Straits between Borneo and Sulawesi, crossed the Banda Sea and continued down through the straits between Bali and Lombok. To the west of the line, in Bali, Borneo and beyond, animal and bird life was predominantly Asian. On the other side of the line, in Lombok, Sulawesi and further east, the animals and birds were strikingly different, mainly species that originated in or resembled those found in New Guinea or Australia. Brilliantly, he deduced that the reason was geological rather than biological: “I believe the western part to be a separated portion of continental Asia, the eastern the fragmentary prolongation of a former Pacific continent.” Of course, we now know that he was absolutely right!
During his trip Wallace also came up with the notion that natural selection was the driving force behind evolution. At the same time Charles Darwin was on the Beagle sailing the seas on the other side of the Pacific and drawing similar conclusions. But that is an entirely different story.
A Very, Very Big River
What Wallace could not know, in fact something that no-one noted until almost 100 years later, was that one of the factors preventing species crossing Wallace’s Line was an enormous moving body of water. The fossil and historical records show that elephants, orang-utans, bears, tigers and other Asian mammals never managed to bridge the gap. They got as far as Borneo and Bali but no further. Even those animals that tried to swim over or were caught on driftwood after a flood could never make the crossing as everything that enters the water on one side of the line is swept away far from land long before it can reach the other side.
In the Pacific Ocean to the northeast of the Indonesian archipelago, the sea level is about 20 centimetres above average. In the Indian Ocean south of Indonesia the sea level is 10 centimetres below average. This 30-centimetre drop between the oceans creates water movement on a massive scale, a phenomenon variously known as the Indonesian Throughflow or Pacific – Indian Throughflow. The most direct path between the oceans and the path taken by a large portion of the Throughflow, as you may have guessed, runs right along the Wallace Line between Borneo and Sulawesi then down through the straits between Bali and Lombok.
Visualise it as a very, very big river pouring through a canyon between continents. How big? Ocean current flows are measured in units called Sverdrups with one Sverdrup being 1 million cubic metres of water per second moving past a given point. The flow of the Amazon is about half a Sverdrup and the combined flow of all the rivers in the world is about one Sverdrup. The flow of the section of the Indonesian Throughflow that courses past the eastern tip of Bali is estimated to be 2.6 Sverdrups, that is, two and a half times the total of all the rivers of the world put together!
Creatures Great and Small
Thus, a vast amount of water is drawn from the Pacific Ocean and sweeps through tropical seas, across the equator and past the islands of northern Indonesia. As it travels, it picks up and carries along with it an enormous quantity of marine larvae, eggs and juveniles and deposits them wherever it encounters land. It is no surprise that most of the legendary Indonesian scuba diving destinations lie along the route taken by the Throughflow. For example, the calm bays of black volcanic sand in northeast Bali are astonishingly rich in rare species. Enterprising dive operators need only sink a stripped motor bike frame or a dozen broken bottles set in a block of concrete and they soon become a collecting point for small fry seeking sanctuary. These tiny fish attract predators such as frogfish, lionfish, scorpion fish, eels and other rare and fascinating creatures and they in turn attract scuba divers and snorkelers.
Dive guides who work in the area often report larger sightings too, such as dugongs and a host of cetaceans, including killer whales. There are sightings of bizarre and highly unusual marine life. Last year an amateur diver captured video of a long entirely transparent eel; the film became a Youtube sensation.
Diving the Throughflow
Beyond the calm water in the bays, the Throughflow provides dramatic drift diving along unusual seascapes. Towering barrel sponges lean at 45 degrees as if in the presence of a powerful wind and, in places, pinnacles and walls are scoured of their usual natural coating. But in the valleys and other places where the topography provides a little shelter from the onslaught of the current, the enormous profusion of corals and fish life can take your breath away. In one bay, for example, just a few metres off shore from the lines of colourful fishing boats that decorate the beach, you can find hectares upon hectares of multi-coloured staghorn coral, as glorious a sight as any of Bali’s rice field terraces. Drifting over these fields of pointed sculpture in pastel shades, populated by clouds of damselfish which rise and fall as you pass is a true magic carpet ride.
Cool Animals in Cool Water
The Throughflow passes by the southeast coast of Bali too and close to the village of Candidasa a series of small islands, some not much more than jagged shards, are home to some of Bali’s fishiest diving. Schools of jacks, rainbow runners and barracuda use the dramatic rock formations for shelter from the current and reef sharks circle around watching for weakness and waiting to strike.
Further south, attempting to block the southern end of the Lombok Straits like an ill-fitting plug is Nusa Penida, the exposed part of an undersea ridge that connects Bali with Lombok. The Throughflow races by on both sides of this island, offering healthy coral, lots of big animal sightings and exhilarating drifts. Sometimes, however, the ride can be a little too wild and conditions can change rapidly and vary dramatically. One day you will drop in on a site and be entertained by a dozen manta rays, which sweep in from the deep to feed on plankton in calm, bottle green water. On another day, the same site will be empty of fish and the ocean will merely throw you around in a soup of spume and spit you out into the southern ocean on a fast train ride to the horizon.
Seasons have an effect on the speed of the Throughflow, with August usually the strongest month when the southeast monsoon is at its zenith. This also coincides with mola-mola season around Nusa Penida. The arrival of these bizarre creatures may be linked to the increased strength of the current but this time of year also sees an upwelling of colder water in the south of the Lombok Straits and that may be significant too. The reliability of mola-mola sightings during this period has created a small boom in the local diving industry. Be warned if you are thinking of joining the crowds: water temperatures can drop to the high teens centigrade but when you are face to face with an oceanic sunfish measuring four metres from tip to tail you will probably not even notice!
Blogs
Experience World-Class Diving and Luxury at its Finest with Lumbalumba Resort
Lumbalumba Resort – Manado is an intimate dive and snorkel retreat nestled in Manado, North Sulawesi, Indonesia—a hidden gem within the world-renowned Coral Triangle, home to the planet’s highest marine biodiversity.
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
With only six luxurious chalets (just nine rooms), we provide a cozy, flexible atmosphere where every guest receives the genuine, personal attention they are looking for.
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
Our philosophy is simple: we can only succeed when you’re truly satisfied. Choosing to stay small allows us to deliver the extra-special, personalized service you seek, making your experience here genuinely unforgettable.
For us, you’re not just another tourist.
For you, we’re not just another dive resort.
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
Rustique situated in our lush bontanical gardens are 3 different types of accommodation, including a family Chalet.
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
Enjoy a relaxing dip in our infinity pool, unwind at the bar, and savor mouthwatering dishes from our renowned kitchen—each meal crafted to delight your taste buds in every bite.
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
Lumbalumba Resort has two different kinds of boat; our inboard powered, custom-made catamaran, Diver III, and Diver IV, our fast outboard-powered dive boat.
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
Both are very comfortable with lots of space to relax from, to and in between dives.
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
Experience stunning visibility and vibrant coral reefs teeming with schooling fish. Bunaken is also a haven for marine life, boasting a thriving population of Hawksbill and Green Sea Turtles. It’s not uncommon to encounter 15 to 20 turtles on a single dive or snorkeling trip!
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
But it’s not just about the big sights and wide-angle views. Close to the resort, you’ll find numerous muck and macro dive sites, reminiscent of the famous Lembeh Strait. And let’s not forget the gem of Lumbalumba—the spectacular House Reef, perfect for exploring at your own pace.
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
Read what what our guests think about us at
Tripadvisor
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
And read what our guests think of us at
SCUBAVERSE
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
Beyond diving and snorkeling, there’s is much to explore on land as well!
Discover the Tangkoko Jungle, home to fascinating wildlife like the rare Black Macaque, vibrant Hornbill birds, and the world’s smallest primate, the enchanting Tarsius Monkey.
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
Take a day trip to the Minahasa Highlands to witness active volcanoes, soothing hot springs, bustling local markets, intricate handicrafts, and breathtaking landscapes.
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
And for thrill-seekers, we offer exciting options like white-water rafting, perfect for those craving an extra dose of adventure!
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
We hope this newsletter has provided you with a glimpse into what we have to offer. However, it’s just the beginning—there’s so much more waiting for you!
We offer an incredible combination trip with
Black Sand Dive Retreat in Lembeh
We also offer our
Uncover North Sulawsi program with Pulisan Beach Resort
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
GETTING HERE
The easiest way to reach Manado is by flying with Singapore Airlines via Singapore. There are four direct flights each week, taking just three hours to get to Manado, with departures on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday.
BOOK NOW!
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com
Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974
Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
Facebook: www.facebook.com/lumbalumba.resort.manado
Instagram: www.instagram.com/lumbalumba.resort.manado/
Stay safe and healthy and we look forward to meet you in Manado soon!
Best wishes,
Juud, Roel and the whole Lumbalumba Team
Blogs
Experience Malta and Gozo in 2025: A Paradise for Divers and Culture Lovers
Looking for the ultimate destination in 2025? Malta and Gozo are two Mediterranean islands that captivate adventurers with their stunning dive sites, rich cultural heritage, and warm hospitality. Known for crystal-clear waters, beautiful underwater landscapes, and a welcoming culture, these islands are the perfect year-round destination for both divers and non-divers. From the seasoned diver to those new to the underwater world, Malta and Gozo offer something extraordinary, making them a must-visit for anyone ready to explore.
Diving in Malta & Gozo: A World-Class Experience
Repeatedly ranked among the top diving destinations globally, the Maltese Islands offer a diving experience like no other. With over 100 dive sites, a thriving underwater ecosystem, and unmatched visibility, these islands are a diver’s paradise.
Iconic Dive Sites and Wrecks
From beginners to expert divers, Malta and Gozo offer an array of dive sites that showcase the islands’ underwater wonders. Here are some highlights:
The Blue Hole in Gozo
A world-renowned dive site, this natural limestone formation is consistently ranked among the top diving destinations globally. Its dramatic underwater scenery makes it a must-visit for divers of all skill levels.
MV Karwela Wreck
A popular dive site off Gozo, this former passenger ferry lies at 40 meters and is decorated with various artifacts, making it ideal for underwater photography.
HMS Maori
Located off the coast of Valletta, this historic WWII wreck rests in shallow waters at around 14 meters, making it accessible for beginners and full of history for all.
Um El Faroud Wreck
This large Libyan oil tanker, intentionally sunk off Malta’s coast, sits at depths between 15 and 36 meters, offering both challenging penetration dives and beautiful coral growth.
Rozi Tugboat
A picturesque wreck located off Cirkewwa, Malta, where divers can explore a former tugboat at a depth of 32 meters amidst stunning marine life.
P31 Patrol Boat Wreck
This shallow, 18-meter wreck near Comino is great for beginner divers and snorkelers, with abundant fish and clear views.
Santa Maria Caves
Also around Comino, these caves offer breathtaking underwater arches, tunnels, and swim-throughs ideal for intermediate divers.
Double Arch Reef
Located off Gozo, this unique double arch formation is a highlight for advanced divers, rich in marine biodiversity.
The Inland Sea Tunnel
A unique dive where divers pass through a tunnel from an inland sea into the open Mediterranean, experiencing dramatic shifts in light and colour.
Crystal-Clear Waters and Ideal Conditions
The Mediterranean waters surrounding Malta, Gozo, and Comino are famous for their clarity, warmth, and deep azure color, offering visibility of up to 30 meters (100 feet). The archipelago’s ideal diving conditions include over 300 days of sunshine, making it possible to dive year-round. Whether it’s winter or summer, the water temperatures stay comfortably warm, making it one of the few diving destinations in the world with such consistently favourable conditions.
Diverse Diving Programs for All Levels
For those who haven’t yet experienced scuba diving, Malta offers the perfect introduction. With over 50 dive centers across the islands, divers can easily find a certified instructor, and English being an official language ensures smooth communication. For beginners, there are introductory ‘try dives’ and certified courses available, while experienced divers can explore advanced trails and unique dive spots. Even children aged 10 and up can earn their PADI certification, making it a family-friendly diving destination.
Adventure Awaits: Activities for Non-Divers
While Malta and Gozo are a diver’s dream, they also offer an impressive range of activities for non-divers. The pristine Mediterranean Sea, with its inviting coves and scenic coastlines, is ideal for a host of water sports and other outdoor activities:
Snorkeling and Swimming
For a glimpse of Malta’s underwater beauty without the dive gear, snorkeling and swimming are popular ways to enjoy the marine life just below the surface.
Kayaking and Windsurfing
Embrace the island breeze with kayaking and windsurfing—an ideal way to explore the coastline from a new perspective.
Deep-Sea Fishing and Boat Exploration
Discover hidden coves and tranquil bays by boat or experience the thrill of deep-sea fishing with a local guide.
Land Adventures
Beyond water activities, the unique topography of Malta and Gozo makes them perfect for hiking, mountain biking, rock climbing, trail running, and jeep safaris. Whether exploring by foot or vehicle, the stunning views of the Mediterranean are always in sight.
Malta and Gozo’s Cultural Riches: More than Just Diving
Alongside diving, Malta and Gozo offer a wealth of cultural and historical experiences, showcasing their rich history and vibrant Mediterranean lifestyle. Here are some highlights to inspire you to stay longer and fully experience what these islands have to offer.
Valletta: A UNESCO World Heritage Site
The historic city of Valletta, Malta’s capital, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a blend of grand baroque architecture, fortresses, and ornate churches. As you wander the streets of Valletta, explore its many landmarks, including the awe-inspiring St. John’s Co-Cathedral, a baroque masterpiece, and the Grand Harbour, with its scenic views and vibrant energy.
Discover the Megalithic Temples and Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum
Malta is home to three UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including the megalithic temples, some of the world’s oldest freestanding structures, and the Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum, an ancient underground necropolis. These sites offer a glimpse into a world thousands of years old, reflecting the deep historical roots of the Maltese islands.
Culinary Delights and Warm Hospitality
Malta and Gozo are also celebrated for their cuisine, a delightful fusion of Mediterranean flavors with Italian, North African, and Middle Eastern influences. From fresh seafood to locally produced wines, visitors are welcomed with warm hospitality and an invitation to savor authentic flavors. The islands’ dining scene spans everything from rustic village eateries to sophisticated gourmet restaurants, ensuring that every meal is memorable.
Festivals, Friendly Locals, and LGBTQ+ Friendly
The Maltese are known for their friendly and welcoming nature, making travellers feel at home. With various cultural festivals, local feasts, and LGBTQ+ friendly spaces, Malta and Gozo truly cater to all travellers.
Why Choose Malta and Gozo in 2025?
Malta and Gozo offer the ultimate dive vacation experience, easily accessible from the UK with a short, three-hour flight. The islands boast year-round warm weather, over 300 days of sunshine, and a wide variety of accommodations that cater to every budget, from luxurious resorts and boutique hotels to charming farmhouses.
Key Reasons to Visit Malta and Gozo in 2025:
Year-Round Warm Weather
Perfect diving and sightseeing conditions await you at any time of the year.
Quick and Easy Access
Only three hours from the UK, making it an ideal short-haul destination.
Diverse Activities and Accommodations
From shore dives and boat dives to cultural and soft adventure activities, Malta and Gozo have something for everyone.
Stunning Historical Sites
With three UNESCO World Heritage Sites and countless historical landmarks, there’s much more to explore beyond the shorelines.
Alluring Culinary Experiences
Sample the vibrant flavours of the Mediterranean while enjoying the warm hospitality of the Maltese people.
Dive Into Malta and Gozo in 2025!
With so much to offer, the Maltese Islands are an exceptional destination for diving and beyond. Discover spectacular reefs, mysterious wrecks, vibrant local culture, and the natural beauty of Malta and Gozo in 2025. Whether it’s the thrill of an underwater adventure, the charm of ancient streets, or the flavors of Mediterranean cuisine, Malta and Gozo promise an unforgettable experience that will keep you coming back year after year.
Book your adventure today and explore more than you ever thought possible in Malta and Gozo!
Book a great value Economy plus fare with British Airways, and benefit from 1 piece of checked luggage per passenger up to 23kg.
Find cheapest fares to Malta – British Airways
You can take most items as part of your checked baggage allowance if it’s packed in a recognised kit bag and doesn’t exceed the maximum size and weight for checked baggage.
Find out more about travelling on British Airways flights and carrying your sports equipment here:
Flying with sports equipment | Information | British Airways
Find out more about diving in Malta and Gozo at www.visitmalta.com/en/diving-in-malta.
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