Travel Stories
The Indonesian Throughflow
As you head out from the shores of east Bali on your morning dive you are surrounded by a host of tiny outrigger fishing boats, their sails flashing in the sunlight as they dance over the waves. It is a unique, entrancing and inspiring sight, all the more so because this is a very special place.
These fishermen (and you in your dive boat) are scudding over waters that lie on the cusp of geological and biological change. In the past, at times of low sea levels, this coastline marked the very tip of a massive Eurasian Continent. During those periods you could have walked all the way from Bali to Paris without getting your feet wet. However, even when the world’s oceans were at their lowest ebb, you could never have gone any further east without harnessing wind or mechanical power, due to the depth of the chasm between Bali and Lombok, the next island in the chain.
A Fisherman contemplates the ocean
A juvenile lion fish finds sanctuary in the mouth of a bottle placed in the sand in Amed East Bali
Wallace’s Genius
In the 19th century the great naturalist Alfred Russel Wallace spent time in the islands of what is now Indonesia and remarked on how different the species of bird and animal living in the west of the archipelago were from those that inhabited the east. His findings led him to draw a line on a chart that ran through the Makassar Straits between Borneo and Sulawesi, crossed the Banda Sea and continued down through the straits between Bali and Lombok. To the west of the line, in Bali, Borneo and beyond, animal and bird life was predominantly Asian. On the other side of the line, in Lombok, Sulawesi and further east, the animals and birds were strikingly different, mainly species that originated in or resembled those found in New Guinea or Australia. Brilliantly, he deduced that the reason was geological rather than biological: “I believe the western part to be a separated portion of continental Asia, the eastern the fragmentary prolongation of a former Pacific continent.” Of course, we now know that he was absolutely right!
During his trip Wallace also came up with the notion that natural selection was the driving force behind evolution. At the same time Charles Darwin was on the Beagle sailing the seas on the other side of the Pacific and drawing similar conclusions. But that is an entirely different story.
A Very, Very Big River
What Wallace could not know, in fact something that no-one noted until almost 100 years later, was that one of the factors preventing species crossing Wallace’s Line was an enormous moving body of water. The fossil and historical records show that elephants, orang-utans, bears, tigers and other Asian mammals never managed to bridge the gap. They got as far as Borneo and Bali but no further. Even those animals that tried to swim over or were caught on driftwood after a flood could never make the crossing as everything that enters the water on one side of the line is swept away far from land long before it can reach the other side.
In the Pacific Ocean to the northeast of the Indonesian archipelago, the sea level is about 20 centimetres above average. In the Indian Ocean south of Indonesia the sea level is 10 centimetres below average. This 30-centimetre drop between the oceans creates water movement on a massive scale, a phenomenon variously known as the Indonesian Throughflow or Pacific – Indian Throughflow. The most direct path between the oceans and the path taken by a large portion of the Throughflow, as you may have guessed, runs right along the Wallace Line between Borneo and Sulawesi then down through the straits between Bali and Lombok.
Visualise it as a very, very big river pouring through a canyon between continents. How big? Ocean current flows are measured in units called Sverdrups with one Sverdrup being 1 million cubic metres of water per second moving past a given point. The flow of the Amazon is about half a Sverdrup and the combined flow of all the rivers in the world is about one Sverdrup. The flow of the section of the Indonesian Throughflow that courses past the eastern tip of Bali is estimated to be 2.6 Sverdrups, that is, two and a half times the total of all the rivers of the world put together!
Mola-mola and Diver
Creatures Great and Small
Thus, a vast amount of water is drawn from the Pacific Ocean and sweeps through tropical seas, across the equator and past the islands of northern Indonesia. As it travels, it picks up and carries along with it an enormous quantity of marine larvae, eggs and juveniles and deposits them wherever it encounters land. It is no surprise that most of the legendary Indonesian scuba diving destinations lie along the route taken by the Throughflow. For example, the calm bays of black volcanic sand in northeast Bali are astonishingly rich in rare species. Enterprising dive operators need only sink a stripped motor bike frame or a dozen broken bottles set in a block of concrete and they soon become a collecting point for small fry seeking sanctuary. These tiny fish attract predators such as frogfish, lionfish, scorpion fish, eels and other rare and fascinating creatures and they in turn attract scuba divers and snorkelers.
Dive guides who work in the area often report larger sightings too, such as dugongs and a host of cetaceans, including killer whales. There are sightings of bizarre and highly unusual marine life. Last year an amateur diver captured video of a long entirely transparent eel; the film became a Youtube sensation.
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A Plan of the Throughflow
Diving the Throughflow
Beyond the calm water in the bays, the Throughflow provides dramatic drift diving along unusual seascapes. Towering barrel sponges lean at 45 degrees as if in the presence of a powerful wind and, in places, pinnacles and walls are scoured of their usual natural coating. But in the valleys and other places where the topography provides a little shelter from the onslaught of the current, the enormous profusion of corals and fish life can take your breath away. In one bay, for example, just a few metres off shore from the lines of colourful fishing boats that decorate the beach, you can find hectares upon hectares of multi-coloured staghorn coral, as glorious a sight as any of Bali’s rice field terraces. Drifting over these fields of pointed sculpture in pastel shades, populated by clouds of damselfish which rise and fall as you pass is a true magic carpet ride.
Mola-mola in sun
Cool Animals in Cool Water
The Throughflow passes by the southeast coast of Bali too and close to the village of Candidasa a series of small islands, some not much more than jagged shards, are home to some of Bali’s fishiest diving. Schools of jacks, rainbow runners and barracuda use the dramatic rock formations for shelter from the current and reef sharks circle around watching for weakness and waiting to strike.
Further south, attempting to block the southern end of the Lombok Straits like an ill-fitting plug is Nusa Penida, the exposed part of an undersea ridge that connects Bali with Lombok. The Throughflow races by on both sides of this island, offering healthy coral, lots of big animal sightings and exhilarating drifts. Sometimes, however, the ride can be a little too wild and conditions can change rapidly and vary dramatically. One day you will drop in on a site and be entertained by a dozen manta rays, which sweep in from the deep to feed on plankton in calm, bottle green water. On another day, the same site will be empty of fish and the ocean will merely throw you around in a soup of spume and spit you out into the southern ocean on a fast train ride to the horizon.
Current pools created by the Throughflow off the coast of the village of Aas on the very tip of Asia
Seasons have an effect on the speed of the Throughflow, with August usually the strongest month when the southeast monsoon is at its zenith. This also coincides with mola-mola season around Nusa Penida. The arrival of these bizarre creatures may be linked to the increased strength of the current but this time of year also sees an upwelling of colder water in the south of the Lombok Straits and that may be significant too. The reliability of mola-mola sightings during this period has created a small boom in the local diving industry. Be warned if you are thinking of joining the crowds: water temperatures can drop to the high teens centigrade but when you are face to face with an oceanic sunfish measuring four metres from tip to tail you will probably not even notice!
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Blogs
Dive into Adventure at Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa: The Ultimate Diving Destination in the Maldives
Tucked away in the remote northern Haa Alifu Atoll, Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa is a premier destination for anyone seeking an unforgettable underwater experience. With over 30 dive sites to explore, divers of all levels can witness the unique and mesmerising beauty of the underwater world. Whether you’re a seasoned diver or new to the sport, Hideaway offers an exceptional diving adventure that is not to be missed.
Explore the Beauty Beneath the Surface
Hideaway is perfectly situated near some of the most spectacular dive sites in the Maldives. The dive school and team at Hideaway offer a very personalised experience to ensure each diver gets an interactive, immersive experience.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Unique dive spots such as Theefaridhoo Thila (Heaven and Hell) as one of the 50 best dive sites in the whole of the Maldives, known for its beautiful soft coral gardens.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
As the resort is located next to a channel which gives guests surprise visits from eagle rays, manta rays, guitar sharks and more.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
One of the standout features of diving in the Haa Alifu Atoll is the abundance of rare and exotic marine species. The area is known for sightings of whale sharks, manta rays, turtles, and a variety of colorful reef fish. Diving at Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa offers a rare opportunity to encounter these creatures in their natural habitat, creating lifelong memories for guests.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Whether you’re exploring deep coral gardens, dramatic overhangs, or vibrant reef walls, each dive offers something new and exciting. The visibility in the Maldives is exceptional, often exceeding 30 meters, making it ideal for both underwater photography and general exploration.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Diving for All Levels
At Hideaway, we believe that everyone should have the opportunity to experience the thrill of diving. That’s why we cater to divers of all levels, from beginners to experienced professionals. Our professional dive center, led by expert instructors, offers a range of courses and guided dives. If you’re new to diving, you can start with an introductory course that will teach you the basics of scuba diving in a safe and controlled environment.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
For more experienced divers, we offer advanced dive courses and guided excursions to some of the more challenging dive sites. Our instructors are knowledgeable and passionate about the local marine life, ensuring that every dive is not only safe but also informative and enjoyable.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Exclusive Diving Offer
To make your stay even more unforgettable, Hideaway is offering an exclusive diving package designed to enhance your experience both above and below the water. When you book a minimum 7-night stay, you’ll receive:
- 35% discount on room rates.
- Complimentary diving: 3 dives per person for 2 guests, allowing you to experience the beauty of the Maldives underwater world.
- Free meal plan upgrade: enjoy a complimentary upgrade from Bed & Breakfast to Half Board, or from Half Board to Full Board. Guests who prefer the White Platinum Plan (WPP) can avail it at a discounted rate.
This incredible offer provides the perfect opportunity to experience world-class diving while enjoying all the luxury and comfort that Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa is known for.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Combinable Offers for Even More Value
This diving offer can also be combined with our Anniversary and Honeymoon offers, allowing you to create the perfect celebration package. Whether you’re celebrating a milestone or simply seeking a romantic getaway, this offer ensures that you can enjoy the best of both worlds – luxurious accommodations and unforgettable diving adventures.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Terms & Conditions
- This offer is available exclusively for bookings made through the official Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa website using a specific booking code.
- The offer cannot be combined with other promotions available on the website or through other channels, nor can it be redeemed for cash.
- All dives are subject to weather conditions, ensuring the safety and enjoyment of all guests.
- Black-out dates: This offer is not available from 24th December 2024 to 9th January 2025.
To book this exquisite offer, use the Promo Code: SCUBA24FD
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Hideaway is not just a resort; it’s a sanctuary for those seeking peace, adventure, and luxury. With spacious villas, private pools, and world-class dining options, the resort offers everything you need for a perfect holiday. From tennis, golf, gym, cycling to the exquisite underwater activities, unique dining options, Hideaway has something for everyone. And for diving enthusiasts, it provides an unparalleled opportunity to explore some of the most beautiful dive sites in the world.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Our dive center is fully equipped with state-of-the-art gear, ensuring that every dive is safe, comfortable, and enjoyable. Our instructors are passionate about the underwater world and are eager to share their knowledge with you, whether it’s your first dive or your 100th.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
The Ultimate Dive Adventure Awaits
If you’re looking for an unforgettable diving holiday in the Maldives, look no further than Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa. With over 30 dive sites, unique marine life, and exclusive offers, we provide the ultimate underwater experience. Whether you’re celebrating a special occasion or simply seeking adventure, our diving package offers exceptional value and incredible memories.
Book now through our official website to take advantage of this exclusive offer and prepare for the dive adventure of a lifetime.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Call: +960 650-1515
Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
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