Travel Stories
Terrific Tufi
Christopher and his partner Imi visit Tufi Dive Resort in Papua New Guinea, and get straight into the diving
Flying over the Coral Sea from Brisbane I couldn’t stop looking out of the window and searching for the remote reefs of the Eastern Fields, testing the zoom on my new camera on an unknown ray-shaped island. Imi and I were itching to get in the water and hoped we would get to Tufi Dive Resort before sunset for a welcome dip. Alas the vagaries of tropical weather were against us and our connecting flight from Port Moresby was postponed until the following morning. Airlines PNG put us and other travellers up in Moresby overnight and had us back at the airport at 6 o’clock the following morning.
Sitting at the back of the De Havilland Twin Otter with my partner Imi and an American Mom, Dad, and teenage son combo in front, I peered through the misty clouds at the swath of trees below, occasionally cut by the hairline crack of a path or the meandering swirls of a river. The jagged peaks of the Owen-Stanley range that run down the spine of the island weren’t that far away as we headed east from Port Moresby to Tufi. The landscape was rugged to say the least, and it was easy to understand why both Australian and Japanese troops had struggled during the Second World War battles there.
As we approached the east coast of Oro province the spectacular fjords of Cape Nelson came into view, a strange mix of glacial action now topped by lush tropical forest, with aqua coral reefs surrounding the headlands clearly visible in the cobalt blue of the Solomon Sea. Banking steeply, we lined up with the gravel airstrip and touched down. Two 4WD vehicles were waiting for us to take us on the one-minute drive to the resort.
With a fruit juice in hand, we whizzed through the usual paperwork and were asked to leave our dive gear outside our rooms in 20 minutes and meet in reception from where we were taken down to the dive centre. Less than 90 minutes after landing the five of us, plus instructor Glen and DM Alex, were in a boat and heading off across the flat sea to Bev’s reef, part of the mid-distance reef system. Using a well-drawn dive site map, Glen laid out the plan for a drift dive, and off we went.
Imi hadn’t dived for four months and I had the new camera so we were planning on just chilling and getting comfortable again, and a wall dive seemed ideal. Rolling in we both burst into grins. Not just from the simple pleasure of being in the water again, but because of the clear blue water filled with corals, reef fish, and colourful purple, yellow, and white sea squirts. There were nudis and schools of fusiliers and snappers, whitetip reef sharks and three of the nine species of anemonefish found in PNG.
Wending our way slowly at the back of the group, coming over the top of a coral outcrop to have a gander for big stuff that might be hanging out in the current, I had to do a double take. Sitting there next to a crinoid was one of PNG’s underwater grails, a black Merlet’s (or lacy) scorpionfish, Rhinopias aphanes, that has the peculiar habit off shedding its skin every three months or so. Photographers search for these for days and days, and here I was pointing an unfamiliar camera at one after barely 30 minutes in the water. It turned out to be the only one I saw, but it was the start of a long list of new sightings for me.
One of Tufi’s signature sites is Veale’s reef, often dived on the same trip as Bev’s. Veale’s is often frequented by an albino hammerhead, but not on this occasion. Still, it was hard to grumble with of schools of baitfish, barracuda, black and white snapper, batfish, some Spanish mackerel, , as well as a swift-moving green turtle and a couple more whitetips around. We certainly had enough to talk about over a late but delicious lunch on the veranda.
Some reefs are just a short trip away, such as Blue Ribbon reef just round the runway headland that we dived during a tropical storm. The sea turned an atmospheric deep blue as we searched for, you guessed it, ribbon eels. Not all ribbon eels are blue, far from it in fact. They are all born black with a yellow dorsal stripe; adult females are yellow with a black anal fin with white margins on the fins, and only adult males are blue with a yellow dorsal fin.
The outer reefs are a 30-minute boat ride away and Cyclone reef is one of them. The story goes that it appeared from nowhere after a severe storm in 1972, brought up from the depths by the elements. It’s very top breaks the surface of the sea and is a haven for mating seabirds. Over the edge it drops away into a wall dive, once again buzzing with reef life, and out in the blue we spied two hammerheads cruising past. Minor reef is nearby and often dived in tandem with Cyclone. The reef top sits a few metres below the surface and its plate and staghorn corals bask in the sunlight illuminating the damselfish that adorn them, making it a great spot for no-flash photography. It is named after the large bright yellow and black Notodoris minor nudibranch that is often found there.
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Back at the resort, looking at the maps on the walnut-panelled walls gives one a better sense of the remoteness and the size of the area. Whole swathes of the Solomon Sea, starting where Cyclone and Minor reefs are, are marked as uncharted. There are basically reefs everywhere out there. Jack Daniels and Nuggets are two recently discovered ones, and Glen and his brother Archie were keen to get us out to them. Armed with a small plastic bottle with a little water in it, Archie began crunching and rolling it between his hands as soon as we were down JD’s slope and onto the wall. Within a couple of minutes he had attracted the attention of four grey reef sharks. They didn’t seem very used to human interaction and kept their distance, as did a couple of turtles, the sharks occasionally darting a bit closer to recce these odd, large bubble-blowing creatures, and a couple of whitetip reef sharks came by for a look too.
With our appetites for diving well and truly whetted, we went for an afternoon dive off the public wharf. It is talked up as a photographer’s delight and one of the best spots in the world for so-called muck-diving. Muck-diving gets its name from apparently uninteresting sites that can be either silty, sandy, muddy, or just rather barren-looking, but that are actually home to a large number of small, weird, and wonderful creatures.
Tufi’s wharf dive site is more of a junk dive than a muck dive, the sloping wall of the fjord being littered with debris from the harbour’s previous life as a torpedo patrol boat base during WW2, and the dumping of old bits of machinery, the odd fuel drum, and some girders that were no doubt formerly part of the jetty. There are also the remains of PT boat and its torpedoes down at 45 metres, but there was more than enough along the fjord slope and wall to keep us occupied with ornate and robust ghostpipefish, frogfish, ringed pipefish, common seahorse, loads of nudis, crab eye gobies, anemonefish, mantis shrimp, cleaner shrimp, lionfish, and 50 metres past the remains of the torpedo boat wharf, walls, little caves, and tons of sponges on the corner of the harbour. If you fancy a fourth dive in a day, dusk dives are available, and Alex and Archie the eagle-eyed guides are experts at finding nocturnal action right by the wharf, including brightly-patterned mandarinfish.
If three or four dives a day is a bit too much, there is plenty to do to fill your time actively. On the Sunday we were paddled up McLaren Sound in an outrigger. We advanced into the forest until it became too shallow to make further progress. After a short walk we were given an insight into village life, traditions, the uses of various plants and trees, and demonstrations of tattooing and sago-making before being paddled back to the dive boat that whisked us to a white sand beach on the headland opposite the resort for a barbecue lunch and afternoon swim.
One afternoon we went for a walk through a village and I ended up down by the schoolhouse chatting to the local teenage girls. There were very interested in Imi’s long straight hair until my attempts at using the local language had them in stitches. When I went up to the blackboard and started teaching them some French (my mother tongue) they were howling so much that the schoolmaster wandered over and ended up joining in whilst one of the two local policemen watched on with amusement. Ambling down to the dock, we watched the locals from the surrounding area come in on their outriggers for a trip to the store by the wharf or to trade in the village. There is a steady trickle of comings and goings if people watching is your thing, but the main event is the Saturday evening wharf market that springs up when the weekly ferry comes in from Popandetta.
On our final afternoon we took a two-seater canoe and paddled up the fjord, hearing the sounds of the forest as we went. At many of the small beaches we’d see an outrigger parked up and hear voices in the distance, mainly children whooping with laughter, frolicking unseen in the trees. It is certainly a place that should inspire happiness. We canoed the deep blue in the centre of the fjord, apparently bottoming out around 200 metres below, and would pop over to the shallow reef tops for a dip and a snorkel.
The resort has been around in various configurations since the 70’s but now comprises a mixture of air-conditioned standard and deluxe rooms, the latter of which are beautiful, with polished timber floors and traditional linings, and much attention to detail. In the lush grounds, amongst the trees and the orchids, there is a pool that we never had time to use, and resident animals for light entertainment; three cuscus, Lucky the parrot, and Stew the wallaby, as well as a library and flat screen TV with a selection of films if you are that way inclined. We preferred enjoying the superb service, relaxed atmosphere, and the company of fellow guests and Matt the manager in the evening after yet more lovely food.
Our time flew by and we had to leave far too soon. There are outrigger safaris sleeping in local villages to go on, trekking up Mount Trafalgar, and more dive sites to visit. There were not enough – takers for a trip to the Black-Jack WW2 B-17 bomber, and other virgin reefs just waiting to be explored, as well as another twenty-odd established sites that we didn’t see. That will have to be for another time, as we have promised to return. Tufi is terrific.
Papua New Guinea travel: PNG is three hour’s flight time north of Australia, six hours from Singapore, and has weekly and twice weekly direct flights from a range of destinations like Manila, Cebu, Bali, Sydney, Cairns, Hong Kong and Tokyo. Within PNG, the best way (and often only) way to get around is by air either with Air Niugini or Airlines of PNG. Best of PNG put together tailor-made dive trips that can also take in the best Sing-Sings (cultural festivals) on the PNG calendar, trekking up Mt Wilhelm or the Kokoda Trail, and Sepik River expeditions. www.bestofpng.com
Lumbalumba Resort – Manado is an intimate dive and snorkel retreat nestled in Manado, North Sulawesi, Indonesia—a hidden gem within the world-renowned Coral Triangle, home to the planet’s highest marine biodiversity.
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
With only six luxurious chalets (just nine rooms), we provide a cozy, flexible atmosphere where every guest receives the genuine, personal attention they are looking for.
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
Our philosophy is simple: we can only succeed when you’re truly satisfied. Choosing to stay small allows us to deliver the extra-special, personalized service you seek, making your experience here genuinely unforgettable.
For us, you’re not just another tourist.
For you, we’re not just another dive resort.
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
Rustique situated in our lush bontanical gardens are 3 different types of accommodation, including a family Chalet.
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
Enjoy a relaxing dip in our infinity pool, unwind at the bar, and savor mouthwatering dishes from our renowned kitchen—each meal crafted to delight your taste buds in every bite.
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
Lumbalumba Resort has two different kinds of boat; our inboard powered, custom-made catamaran, Diver III, and Diver IV, our fast outboard-powered dive boat.
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
Both are very comfortable with lots of space to relax from, to and in between dives.
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
Experience stunning visibility and vibrant coral reefs teeming with schooling fish. Bunaken is also a haven for marine life, boasting a thriving population of Hawksbill and Green Sea Turtles. It’s not uncommon to encounter 15 to 20 turtles on a single dive or snorkeling trip!
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
But it’s not just about the big sights and wide-angle views. Close to the resort, you’ll find numerous muck and macro dive sites, reminiscent of the famous Lembeh Strait. And let’s not forget the gem of Lumbalumba—the spectacular House Reef, perfect for exploring at your own pace.
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
Read what what our guests think about us at
Tripadvisor
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
And read what our guests think of us at
SCUBAVERSE
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
Beyond diving and snorkeling, there’s is much to explore on land as well!
Discover the Tangkoko Jungle, home to fascinating wildlife like the rare Black Macaque, vibrant Hornbill birds, and the world’s smallest primate, the enchanting Tarsius Monkey.
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
Take a day trip to the Minahasa Highlands to witness active volcanoes, soothing hot springs, bustling local markets, intricate handicrafts, and breathtaking landscapes.
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
And for thrill-seekers, we offer exciting options like white-water rafting, perfect for those craving an extra dose of adventure!
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
We hope this newsletter has provided you with a glimpse into what we have to offer. However, it’s just the beginning—there’s so much more waiting for you!
We offer an incredible combination trip with
Black Sand Dive Retreat in Lembeh
We also offer our
Uncover North Sulawsi program with Pulisan Beach Resort
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
GETTING HERE
The easiest way to reach Manado is by flying with Singapore Airlines via Singapore. There are four direct flights each week, taking just three hours to get to Manado, with departures on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday.
BOOK NOW!
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com
Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974
Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
Facebook: www.facebook.com/lumbalumba.resort.manado
Instagram: www.instagram.com/lumbalumba.resort.manado/
Stay safe and healthy and we look forward to meet you in Manado soon!
Best wishes,
Juud, Roel and the whole Lumbalumba Team
Looking for the ultimate destination in 2025? Malta and Gozo are two Mediterranean islands that captivate adventurers with their stunning dive sites, rich cultural heritage, and warm hospitality. Known for crystal-clear waters, beautiful underwater landscapes, and a welcoming culture, these islands are the perfect year-round destination for both divers and non-divers. From the seasoned diver to those new to the underwater world, Malta and Gozo offer something extraordinary, making them a must-visit for anyone ready to explore.
Diving in Malta & Gozo: A World-Class Experience
Repeatedly ranked among the top diving destinations globally, the Maltese Islands offer a diving experience like no other. With over 100 dive sites, a thriving underwater ecosystem, and unmatched visibility, these islands are a diver’s paradise.
Iconic Dive Sites and Wrecks
From beginners to expert divers, Malta and Gozo offer an array of dive sites that showcase the islands’ underwater wonders. Here are some highlights:
The Blue Hole in Gozo
A world-renowned dive site, this natural limestone formation is consistently ranked among the top diving destinations globally. Its dramatic underwater scenery makes it a must-visit for divers of all skill levels.
MV Karwela Wreck
A popular dive site off Gozo, this former passenger ferry lies at 40 meters and is decorated with various artifacts, making it ideal for underwater photography.
HMS Maori
Located off the coast of Valletta, this historic WWII wreck rests in shallow waters at around 14 meters, making it accessible for beginners and full of history for all.
Um El Faroud Wreck
This large Libyan oil tanker, intentionally sunk off Malta’s coast, sits at depths between 15 and 36 meters, offering both challenging penetration dives and beautiful coral growth.
Rozi Tugboat
A picturesque wreck located off Cirkewwa, Malta, where divers can explore a former tugboat at a depth of 32 meters amidst stunning marine life.
P31 Patrol Boat Wreck
This shallow, 18-meter wreck near Comino is great for beginner divers and snorkelers, with abundant fish and clear views.
Santa Maria Caves
Also around Comino, these caves offer breathtaking underwater arches, tunnels, and swim-throughs ideal for intermediate divers.
Double Arch Reef
Located off Gozo, this unique double arch formation is a highlight for advanced divers, rich in marine biodiversity.
The Inland Sea Tunnel
A unique dive where divers pass through a tunnel from an inland sea into the open Mediterranean, experiencing dramatic shifts in light and colour.
Crystal-Clear Waters and Ideal Conditions
The Mediterranean waters surrounding Malta, Gozo, and Comino are famous for their clarity, warmth, and deep azure color, offering visibility of up to 30 meters (100 feet). The archipelago’s ideal diving conditions include over 300 days of sunshine, making it possible to dive year-round. Whether it’s winter or summer, the water temperatures stay comfortably warm, making it one of the few diving destinations in the world with such consistently favourable conditions.
Diverse Diving Programs for All Levels
For those who haven’t yet experienced scuba diving, Malta offers the perfect introduction. With over 50 dive centers across the islands, divers can easily find a certified instructor, and English being an official language ensures smooth communication. For beginners, there are introductory ‘try dives’ and certified courses available, while experienced divers can explore advanced trails and unique dive spots. Even children aged 10 and up can earn their PADI certification, making it a family-friendly diving destination.
Adventure Awaits: Activities for Non-Divers
While Malta and Gozo are a diver’s dream, they also offer an impressive range of activities for non-divers. The pristine Mediterranean Sea, with its inviting coves and scenic coastlines, is ideal for a host of water sports and other outdoor activities:
Snorkeling and Swimming
For a glimpse of Malta’s underwater beauty without the dive gear, snorkeling and swimming are popular ways to enjoy the marine life just below the surface.
Kayaking and Windsurfing
Embrace the island breeze with kayaking and windsurfing—an ideal way to explore the coastline from a new perspective.
Deep-Sea Fishing and Boat Exploration
Discover hidden coves and tranquil bays by boat or experience the thrill of deep-sea fishing with a local guide.
Land Adventures
Beyond water activities, the unique topography of Malta and Gozo makes them perfect for hiking, mountain biking, rock climbing, trail running, and jeep safaris. Whether exploring by foot or vehicle, the stunning views of the Mediterranean are always in sight.
Malta and Gozo’s Cultural Riches: More than Just Diving
Alongside diving, Malta and Gozo offer a wealth of cultural and historical experiences, showcasing their rich history and vibrant Mediterranean lifestyle. Here are some highlights to inspire you to stay longer and fully experience what these islands have to offer.
Valletta: A UNESCO World Heritage Site
The historic city of Valletta, Malta’s capital, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a blend of grand baroque architecture, fortresses, and ornate churches. As you wander the streets of Valletta, explore its many landmarks, including the awe-inspiring St. John’s Co-Cathedral, a baroque masterpiece, and the Grand Harbour, with its scenic views and vibrant energy.
Discover the Megalithic Temples and Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum
Malta is home to three UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including the megalithic temples, some of the world’s oldest freestanding structures, and the Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum, an ancient underground necropolis. These sites offer a glimpse into a world thousands of years old, reflecting the deep historical roots of the Maltese islands.
Culinary Delights and Warm Hospitality
Malta and Gozo are also celebrated for their cuisine, a delightful fusion of Mediterranean flavors with Italian, North African, and Middle Eastern influences. From fresh seafood to locally produced wines, visitors are welcomed with warm hospitality and an invitation to savor authentic flavors. The islands’ dining scene spans everything from rustic village eateries to sophisticated gourmet restaurants, ensuring that every meal is memorable.
Festivals, Friendly Locals, and LGBTQ+ Friendly
The Maltese are known for their friendly and welcoming nature, making travellers feel at home. With various cultural festivals, local feasts, and LGBTQ+ friendly spaces, Malta and Gozo truly cater to all travellers.
Why Choose Malta and Gozo in 2025?
Malta and Gozo offer the ultimate dive vacation experience, easily accessible from the UK with a short, three-hour flight. The islands boast year-round warm weather, over 300 days of sunshine, and a wide variety of accommodations that cater to every budget, from luxurious resorts and boutique hotels to charming farmhouses.
Key Reasons to Visit Malta and Gozo in 2025:
Year-Round Warm Weather
Perfect diving and sightseeing conditions await you at any time of the year.
Quick and Easy Access
Only three hours from the UK, making it an ideal short-haul destination.
Diverse Activities and Accommodations
From shore dives and boat dives to cultural and soft adventure activities, Malta and Gozo have something for everyone.
Stunning Historical Sites
With three UNESCO World Heritage Sites and countless historical landmarks, there’s much more to explore beyond the shorelines.
Alluring Culinary Experiences
Sample the vibrant flavours of the Mediterranean while enjoying the warm hospitality of the Maltese people.
Dive Into Malta and Gozo in 2025!
With so much to offer, the Maltese Islands are an exceptional destination for diving and beyond. Discover spectacular reefs, mysterious wrecks, vibrant local culture, and the natural beauty of Malta and Gozo in 2025. Whether it’s the thrill of an underwater adventure, the charm of ancient streets, or the flavors of Mediterranean cuisine, Malta and Gozo promise an unforgettable experience that will keep you coming back year after year.
Book your adventure today and explore more than you ever thought possible in Malta and Gozo!
Book a great value Economy plus fare with British Airways, and benefit from 1 piece of checked luggage per passenger up to 23kg.
Find cheapest fares to Malta – British Airways
You can take most items as part of your checked baggage allowance if it’s packed in a recognised kit bag and doesn’t exceed the maximum size and weight for checked baggage.
Find out more about travelling on British Airways flights and carrying your sports equipment here:
Flying with sports equipment | Information | British Airways
Find out more about diving in Malta and Gozo at www.visitmalta.com/en/diving-in-malta.
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