Travel Stories
Red Sea Wrecks and Reefs
My eyes were as wide as saucers, but it was only partly due to the dim light inside the hold. The Thistlegorm was every bit as good as her reputation, and then some. To boot, my buddy and I were the only ones in her, despite hosting over 60,000 dives a year. We swam a circuit round the hold, going over British WW2 Enfield motorcycles, past a truck and a jeep, aircraft engine cowlings, and round the chassis of a car, its radiator remarkably whole. Something stirred in the gloom and my torch beam picked out a large green turtle. As we came out of the hold by the locomotive water tanker sitting on the port side of the deck, the rest of my shipmates were descending the anchor line to the midships.
Discovered during one of Jacques-Yves Cousteau’s first expeditions aboard the Calypso during early months of 1956, the 375-foot S.S.Thistlegorm was bombed and sunk by the Luftwaffe on the night of October 5th 1941. The ill-fated vessel’s midships were blown open when the bombs struck the ammunition hold exposing Bren gun carriers, rifles, and artillery shells. She sank with her cargo full of war supplies, taking the lives of nine sailors with her. Lying to the North West of Ras Mohamed at a depth of 17 – 35metres the SS Thistlegorm has become one of the most sought after wreck dives in the entire world.
After leaving the holds, we finned with the gentle current to take in the stern and the coral encrusted artillery and anti-aircraft guns mounted to the rear. She was a real beauty with many treasures to discover. I managed to dive her three more times in the following 16 hours. After a very eerie night dive into the hold punctuated by watching another group of divers put on a light show Jean-Michel Jarre would have been proud of, I hit my cabin early so as to hit the water at sunrise, a cunning plan to get her alone with my buddy again.
The light was incredible and the current slack, allowing us to move 25 yards off to port to check out one of the two locomotives blown off the deck in the explosion. One lies to each side, and when the current is pumping it’s hard to get to either of them. At sunrise the port side loco looks particularly cool, and must be one of a very few underwater train wrecks. When the current picks up with the tide, as it did on the last dive, the bows around the anchor winch are buzzing with schooling fish swarming back and forth.
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Operated by the Red Sea Diving College, VIP One is a 16-berth, purposed built, luxury motor yacht which has been crafted and built by lovers of the Red Sea. Drawing on twenty years’ of Red Sea expertise, VIP One has been designed to offer the best in both comfort and safety for both open circuit and rebreather divers. On my trip there were four rebreather divers who were assigned their own CCR guide (all the guides are at least instructors).
Air conditioned and spacious throughout, the interior boasts large double cabins with private bathrooms, a generous saloon and dining room and a fully stocked bar area. Externally you will find sizeable sundecks on a number of levels perfect for sunbathing, reading or even an on-deck barbecue and a top deck bar offers a perfect location for enjoying the Sinai’s spectacular sunsets.
Before embarking on the VIP One three days previously, I wasn’t much of a wreckhead. I did have a penchant for WW2 plane wrecks from Papua New Guinea, but I’d always rated corals and fish over metal hulks. Three days on and my horizons had been widened. We’d warmed up to the Thistlegorm by visiting a series of wrecks on the other side of the Straits of Gubal at Abu Nuhas reef, which has claimed at least four vessels. The first two days’ diving were spent diving the splendid wrecks of the Giannis D, the Carnatic, the Chrisoula K, the Kimon M, and the Kingston. Then we crossed back over the straits to arrive on the Thistlegorm just as everyone else had left their moorings and get in two afternoon dives and a night dive on one of the most interesting wrecks in the world.
But let’s go back to the start. The Giannis D, a 300-foot Greek cargo ship that sank in 1983, was a spectacular start. He stern is arguably one of the most photogenic anywhere. The viz wasn’t as good as ideally necessary for a noise-free image, but she was still a stunner with soft great soft corals and a bridge full of glassfish. The Chrisoula K is another Greek freighter from the early ‘80s with easy access to the bridge, another sexy stern and resident batfish.
The P&O steam sailer SS Carnatic sank in 1879 and has almost become a reef in itself, starting at just 12 feet depth at the bows. Access to the holds is easy and open, with more soft corals, glassfish, lionfish and anemones. After a great dive on this iconic site, my buddy and I were the last ones to surface with Hooch, our guide, and were zipping back to the boat in the RIB when its helmsman Mohammed simultaneously swang hard over to port and yelled “dolphins”. “Snorkel gear on fellas” was the order from Hooch, and in we went. It was hard to resist freediving down to play with them, but luckily a few clumsy rolls and spins at two metres was enough to get them to play. There were close to a dozen, with two youngsters sticking close to their mums, and a playful adult who dived down to the reef and came up to Hooch balancing a stick of dead coral on its nose. Splendid.
The Kimon M is also nearby. Lying on her starboard side, she has an excellent swim-through down most of her length, and pink, white and orange soft corals decorate her superstructure, making her a treat for wide angle and fisheye lens. Small schools of batfish hang around her too.
Ras Mohamed and Tiran Straits
After such a wreckfest, we cruised from the Thistlegorm back to Ras Mohammed, home to some world-renowned dives sites, such as Jackfish alley, Shark Reef, and the wreck of the Yolanda.
We arrived mid-afternoon, just as the last of the day boats from Sharm-el-Sheikh moved off, leaving us and one other liveaboard alone. Day boat operators from Naama Bay tend to depart from and return to the Naama Bay jetty at the same time, meaning that there can be a high number of day boats on the most popular sites in Ras Mohamed (Shark Reef, Yolanda, Anemone City, Shark Observatory, etc.) and Tiran (Jackson reef especially). Liveaboards are allowed to overnight in Ras Mohamed Marine Park, meaning that you can dive the best sites before the daily boats arrive around 09:30 and after they leave at 16:00. It is not uncommon to be the only group on the best sites, even in July.
Between June and August large schools of snapper and barracuda hang around in the blue just off Shark Reef and have given it a reputation as being one of the best dive sites in the world. It did not disappoint, delivering a large school of both and a friendly Napoleon wrasse, two turtles, and a giant moray. There are fans and some swim-throughs, hard and soft corals. At sites like Temple and Fiesta, it is wise to keep an eye on the blue for mantas and whale sharks.
After another early morning extravaganza, we’d just finished breakfast and cast off when the flotilla from Sharm started to arrive. In an hour it would be diver soup. Not for us though, as we cruised to the straits of Tiran and Gordon reef for a post-lunch, late afternoon, and night dive. The Tiran Strait reefs of Gordon, Thomas, Woodhouse and Jackson have good hard and soft coral coverage, plenty of fish, and more fans. Jackson reef can be like swimming in fish soup on occasions, but its popularity also makes it a day boat magnet. An early morning blue dive off the back of Jackson yielded a distant glimpse of eight scalloped hammerheads, and a diver-free exploration of its gorgonian and fish-covered tip to end a fantastic week.
Need to Know:
When to Go: VIP One operates year-round. The schooling snapper and barracuda come to breed in June and July, but the big stuff like mantas, whale sharks, and scalloped hammerheads can be found, with a bit of luck, anytime.
Dive Conditions: Water temp: ranging from 21C in January to 29C in August
Viz: Often 90 feet +
Book through www.indogosafaris.com
Price: 930 euros (based on two sharing an en-suite cabin) including free Nitrox, excluding flights.
Exciting news is on the horizon at the beloved dive resorts, Magic Resorts Philippines!
On January 2nd 2005, the journey of Magic Resorts began, when Magic Island opened its doors as one of the first dedicated dive resorts in Moalboal, Cebu. Now, as we look forward to 2025, a significant milestone is on the horizon: Magic Island’s 20th anniversary!
In preparation for this momentous occasion, the resort has recently upgraded their facilities, including renovated bathrooms, ensuring a fresh and modern experience for their guests. The stage is set for a fantastic celebration!
To cherish and celebrate two decades of incredible diving experiences, Magic Resorts will be offering a special 20% anniversary discount to all guests celebrating with them at either Magic Island or its larger sister resort, Magic Oceans in Anda, Bohol, throughout the entire year of 2025!*
NOT CONVINCED YET?
To kick off the anniversary celebration, here are 20 reasons to book your holiday at Magic Island in 2025!
1) 20-year anniversary!
Of course the anniversary is the perfect occasion to stay at Magic Island and the anniversary special offers you to enjoy a stay with 20% discount! Whether you’re a seasoned diver, new to scuba, a past guest, or a new to Magic’s concept, this is an excellent opportunity to experience the magic of Magic Island Dive Resort.
2) Amazing marine life
Moalboal has been a top dive destination in the Philippines for decades, and for a good reason. This laid-back town at the Westcoast of Cebu offers unforgettable experiences for divers and non-divers alike. Located in the Coral Triangle, Moalboal boasts hundreds of coral species and unique critters, but also features unique sights that make it a standout dive destination not just in the Philippines, but globally!
3) Enjoy newly renovated bathrooms first-hand!
In preparation for the 20-year anniversary, Magic Island renovated all bathrooms of the bungalows last August 2024! The new, spacious and modernized bathrooms offer the best comfort during your stay. As a visitor in 2025, you’ll be among the first to enjoy these upgraded amenities with a perfect view.
4) Dive with Whale Sharks the whole year around
Magic Island offers the possibility to dive with Whale Sharks throughout the entire year!
Unlike many other accommodations that only offer snorkeling with the Whale Sharks, Magic Island is accredited to dive with them with their own dive masters, tanks and crew.
5) Easily accessible house reef
Magic Island’s house reef is open 24/7 and easily accessible within only a few steps from the dive center. You are welcome to make an unguided house reef dive any time of day with your buddy. The house reef starts with a sloping area where you can find the resident sea horse and blue ringed octopus among other life, whereafter you’ll reach the amazing wall where you’ll find turtles, nudibranchs and much more!
6) Native-style bungalows with Western features
The modernized bathrooms are a great Western feature in the native looking style bungalows. While the bungalows have their Filipino native style look, with Nipa rooftops, bamboo balconies and panels of Amakan (woven split-bamboo), they have Western amenities such as air conditioning and a minibar.
7) Dive the Sardine Ball the whole year around
One of the reasons why Moalboal became famous for divers in the first place: you can dive the Sardine Run the whole year around! It’s not a seasonal sighting like other places and therefore a very special phenomenon (even for marine biologists). You can dive with over a million sardines while staying at Magic Island every day of the year!
8) Unparalleled service
The excellent staff of Magic Island ensures you have the best time possible. The team members have been part of the Magic journey for many years – some even from day one! The outstanding Philippine hospitality combined with their experience are the perfect ingredients for exceptional service. They’ll remember your name and do whatever they can to make you feel at home from day one.
9) Fully equipped dive center on site
Magic Island Dive Resort has its own fully equipped PADI dive center right on site. The dive center is equipped with 3 compressors (providing nitrox as well), 3 Bangka boats, full sets of rental gear, aluminium tanks with Int. & DIN connection, and an in-house instructor to name a few. Walk down to the dive center in less than a minute after your meal in the restaurant and get ready for diving!
10) Mating Mandarin fish on the house reef every day!
The real signature dive at Magic Island is without a doubt the Mandarin dive. Just a short swim from the dive center leads you to an underwater spectacle that’s nothing short of magical. Every day during sunset, the Mandarin fish emerge from their coral hideaways for their mating ritual. These colourful and beautifully patterned fish are a species of the Dragonet that are rarely seen outside their coral homes except during this special time. A great sighting just in Magic Islands’ backyard and a great challenge for photographers!
11) Beyond regular night dives
In addition to standard night dives, Magic Island elevates the experience with unique offerings like Fluoro dives and bonfire dives, providing a completely different dimension. If conditions permit, you can also embark on black water dives, where you’ll encounter the mysterious and seldom-seen creatures that emerge during night time.
12) Go down with a local expert!
The dive team of Magic Island make your underwater adventures hassle-free and fun.
You don’t have to carry your tanks or set up your gear, they will take care of that for you. The team of trained PADI Dive masters is local and know the area better than anyone. With their experience, incredible eye for detail and sense of humour, you will have the best dive experience!
13) More than 30 dive sites in less than a 25-minute boat ride
On one of the traditionally Bangka boats, Magic Island takes you out diving around the whole peninsula of Moalboal. 30 different dive sites are waiting for you to explore, all within only a 25-minute. Moalboal’s highlight, Pescador Island, is only 10 minutes away!
14) Freshly prepared meals in family-dinner style
The dining area at Magic Island fosters a sense of community with interconnected tables that encourage socializing. Enjoy a diverse selection of freshly prepared local and Western dishes while watching the chefs at work in the open kitchen. Dietary restrictions? Just let them know, and they’ll accommodate your needs with care.
15) Wet adventures above the surface!
Aside from diving, Magic Island offers great daytrips to explore the culture and nature of Cebu Island. One of the absolute highlights is a trip to the Kawasan Waterfalls, where you can choose between a relaxing visit to enjoy the fresh water and stunning views, or an adventurous canyoneering experience with hiking, climbing, jumping, gliding, and swimming.
16) Experience Moalboal in peace
While Moalboal is a popular destination, Magic Island provides a serene escape from the hustle and bustle. Tucked away from busy areas, the resort creates a tranquil oasis where you can relax while still being close to Moalboal’s vibrant life.
17) Suitable for each kind of diver
With just 10 bungalows, Magic Island offers a cozy and intimate setting for all types of travelers — whether you’re in a group, a couple, or traveling solo. The rich marine life and accessible diving conditions make it an ideal destination for divers of all experience levels.
18) Unique signature drinks!
The homely bar at Magic Island offers a range of beverages to enjoy while taking in breathtaking ocean views. Don’t miss the signature drinks made with Ube Cream, a local liqueur that won the World’s Best Cream Liqueur title at the 2022 World Liqueur Awards. Experience the true Filipino fiesta spirit with this exceptional drink.
19) Combine with Magic Oceans
You can extend your wonderful stay at Magic Island elsewhere! Magic Islands newer and bigger sister Magic Oceans in Anda, Bohol opened its doors in 2015, offering you the possibility to get the maximum out of your magical dive trip by combining the two locations. The same ambience, quality of serviced and most importantly: an amazing diving experience!
20) Just because you’ll have a great time!
The reasons to visit Magic Island in 2025 are endless, but the most important one is that you’re guaranteed to have a fantastic time. With exceptional service, friendly and experienced staff, an ideal location, and outstanding diving, Magic Island promises an unforgettable experience.
CONTACT MAGIC RESORTS FOR YOUR QUOTE ON AN UNPARALLELED DIVING HOLIDAY!
Email: reservations@magicresorts.online
Website: www.magicresorts.online
Facebook: www.facebook.com/magicisland.diveresort
Instagram: www.instagram.com/magic_island_dive_resort
Diving in Gibraltar is an experience that truly sets itself apart. Situated at the confluence of the Atlantic and Mediterranean, it offers an underwater world rich in both marine life and history. Whether you’re a complete novice or a seasoned diver, Gibraltar is ready to take you on an unforgettable journey beneath the waves.
One of the most remarkable aspects of diving in Gibraltar is the artificial reef project. Over the years, several ships have been deliberately sunk to create vibrant underwater habitats. Among the most popular sites are the Spanish Barges, 482M, and Batty’s Barge, all located in the local favourite, Camp Bay. The Spanish Barges are a series of four wrecks, two of which were sunk as part of Gibraltar’s artificial reef programme in the 1980s. They rest at varying depths, ranging from 7 to 22 metres, making them accessible for divers of all skill levels. These wrecks, now teeming with marine life such as octopuses, conger eels, and nudibranchs, offer something for every diver, whether they enjoy swimming through wreckage or observing how marine species have transformed these vessels into thriving ecosystems.
For those more interested in history, Gibraltar’s waters host incredible wrecks like the SS Rosslyn and SS Excellent. The SS Rosslyn, a Cardiff-built steamer, sank in 1916 after dragging its anchor in a storm. Now lying at a depth of 23 metres, this 350-foot wreck attracts advanced divers eager to explore its remnants. Newer wrecks, like the Seahawk, sunk in 2002, and the Sun Swale, sunk in 2015, are part of Gibraltar’s ongoing reef expansion. These more recent additions are rapidly becoming important habitats, drawing species such as cuttlefish, spider crabs, and lobsters. Each of these wrecks offers divers the chance to experience a fusion of history and nature, with the wrecks evolving into vibrant marine environments over time.
Another must-see is the Seven Sisters Marine Conservation Zone (MCZ), known for its rich biodiversity and contribution to the protection of marine species. This area is located close to The Inkwells, where divers can still find remnants of 18th- and 19th-century artifacts, including ceramic pipes, gin bottles, marble fragments, and cod bottles, lending a treasure-hunting aspect to each dive. Exploring this site is like taking a step back in time while being surrounded by a thriving underwater ecosystem.
The diving conditions in Gibraltar are just as diverse as the marine life it hosts. British Gibraltar Territorial Waters is home to a wide array of species, far more life than many other areas in the Mediterranean. This impressive biodiversity is largely due to the nutrient-rich waters that flow where the Atlantic and Mediterranean meet. Divers frequently encounter octopuses—Gibraltar’s charismatic species—along with conger eels, moray eels, thornback rays, and spider crabs. Lucky divers, especially during certain times of the year, might even spot Bluefin Atlantic Tuna swimming through the bay while feeding, as well as many other pelagic species. The sheer abundance of fish and the variety of species make each dive an exciting and unique experience, offering something new with every descent.
Gibraltar boasts its accessibility to diving and a wealth of different dive sites depending on your diving abilities, qualifications and experience. The South and East side dive sites are fantastic boat dives ranging in depths from 14m to 35m + where you can dive on rocky biogenic reefs with a vast array of marine life.
You will need a permit to dive which is easily issued by the Department of the Environment or you can dive with licenced dive operators who will cover this for you. There are also very active local BSAC dive clubs you may wish to get in touch with.
Gibraltar offers a full range of diving experiences for everyone, from first-timers to seasoned veterans. Shore diving is conducted six days a week, and on Sundays, you may venture out on a boat to explore some of the more distant wrecks, such as SS Rosslyn and Sun Swale. What makes diving in Gibraltar so accessible is that all our dive sites are within a 15-minute drive/boat ride, making it easy to fit multiple dives into a single day. Whether you’re taking your first steps into the underwater world with a try dive or you’re an advanced diver looking to explore wrecks and caves, we ensure that each dive is tailored to suit your needs and experience level.
Operations start early, and by 8:45 AM, dive centre teams are already busy preparing for the day’s dives ensuring everything is in place for divers. A typical dive day begins with a briefing that covers the dive plan, safety procedures, and site management, ensuring that everyone is comfortable and prepared for the adventure ahead. Whether it’s exploring historic wrecks or spotting charismatic marine life, each dive offers something special. After the first dive, you surface, switch tanks, and enjoy a surface interval sharing stories of what has been seen before briefing up for a second dip!
In addition to providing unforgettable diving experiences, Gibraltar is deeply committed to marine conservation and scientific research working closely with the Department of the Environment and the University of Gibraltar. Under the water we facilitate the university’s research on projects including coral health assessments and the transplantation of coral species such as Astroides calycularis and various gorgonians. These efforts are critical in preserving Gibraltar’s underwater ecosystems and ensuring that future generations of divers can enjoy its incredible biodiversity. These conservation initiatives are ongoing, and there is regular collaboration with students and researchers on various dive-related projects as they begin the Thesis modules of their degrees.
Dive Charters, Gibraltar’s predominant dive centre is also involved in some octopus research, with a project aimed at increasing the octopus population in Gibraltar’s waters. Working with the University of Gibraltar and the Department of the Environment, they have installed artisanal dens designed to encourage octopus to breed and thrive in the area. These dens have proven highly successful, and divers often encounter octopuses up close in their natural habitat. Observing these intelligent, curious creatures in action is always a highlight of our dives, and their growing population is a testament to the ongoing conservation work.
Diving in Gibraltar offers an unparalleled blend of history, marine life, and conservation. Whether you’re captivated by centuries-old shipwrecks or amazed by the diversity of species that call these waters home, Gibraltar provides a diving experience like no other and we are proud to share this incredible underwater world with divers from all over the globe. Our dedication to safety, fun, and environmental responsibility ensures that each dive leaves a lasting impression.
From beginners to experienced divers, we’ve got something for everyone. With all dive sites just a short ride away the wonders of Gibraltar are waiting for you!
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