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Pierre-Yves Cousteau’s Raja Ampat
Our planet still has exceptional wildlife. But one must travel far to witness some of the last remaining unspoiled areas. Arriving in Sorong brought back old memories of my last visit and it felt so right.
After our very first day of diving, before setting sail south to Misool, we visited a small beautiful island. A perfect postcard jewel. Setting foot on its long lazy beach towards the end of the afternoon, just as the last jet ski buzzed back to the awful mother ship that spawned it, we found a lonesome man collecting the day’s plastic litter in large bags.
He told us he had moved here to flee the mad buzzings of the city, in search for peace and nature. Now, every day, hundreds of tourists invade the beach of the small island he calls home, shedding plastic litter like the physical manifestations of their stress on vacation. Every evening he collects the plastic to ship it back to the mainland, and every morning the waves of jetski-propelled crowds ebb and flow, so blissfully carefree. This modern Sisyphus was out-posted at the first crossroad of our trip, like a warning to be conscious of our every action, here more than anywhere perhaps. Don’t squander the shores of paradise.
Why am I here? I mean in Raja Ampat, not in the universe. I met legendary marine conservationist Dr. Rod Salm during the World Conservation Congress in Hawaii. Rod is one of the visionary conservationists who initiated the Marine Protected Area program of Raja Ampat, ten years ago. I asked him if he could, from the summit of his outstanding career, say what the missing silver bullet is for conservation to succeed. He laughed and replied: “people don’t even have their sh*t together, how could there be a silver bullet?” What he meant of course is that most of us live with little or no understanding of our daily impact on nature. Carelessly. Mindlessly. Like the jetski tourist sprinkling the shores of paradise with plastic. We are all like that. Not because we’re evil or anything: society is just designed this way. Water, air, nature are all blind spots into which we pour our externalities. How can we become more mindful?
I got a little sidetracked there, but it does tie back into the story of the trip. I told Rod about the project to revisit the places my father had explored half a century ago and to document the changes, and understand the why. He put me in touch with Jos Pet, one of the owners of the Seven Seas liveaboard to explore possible synergies and using their ship as a platform to revisit the South East Asia locations. Jos was very kind to ask me to join this trip, which was leaving in only a few weeks and had one free bed.
Exploring Raja Ampat on the Seven Seas vessel was an amazing adventure. Contemplating the complex landscapes of stone sculpted by time and the elements, bathing for hours in the heart of the coral triangle, dive after dive, the images of luxuriant coral and exuberant fish began to paint the inside of my eyelids, diluting desires, infiltrating dreams. In this heaven, where days blurred together, one creature would occasionally manifest its angelic grace: the oceanic manta ray.
Swiveling between the pillars of the divers’ bubbles, the manta rays come to a stationary hover to clean, casting upon our exhilarated faces and flailing bodies a magnanimous gaze. Later, I become lost in an endless field of corals, the dancing sunlight above raining undulating energy into the chloroplasts of the zooxanthella who feed them. Concentric clouds of fish pulsate around the corals to an imperceptible rhythm, dancing like a membrane between home and the hunt.
Above the water and between every dive, I launch the drone into the sky. Gaining new perspective, higher vantage, it feels like a widening of the mind as well as the field of view. My spirit is transferred to the small flying machine and its tiny camera. I fly at full speed only a few feet above the sea, then leap up to 400 feet to gain the overview.
Scouting each island, I perhaps make the first observation ever of a hidden lake. None of the crew or the captain knew about it. It has probably been found by satellite long ago, but in case not, I baptized it Lake PY. After a quick flyby and identifying the best access route however, I was not permitted to climb the razor-sharp stone cliff that leads to it. Hopefully, this will be the object of a future expedition, and new discoveries!
As we visit areas that have been declared no-take marine protected areas, we encounter fishermen, illegally casting nets and lines from their needle-like vessels. One man who converted from fishing to making coconut oil makes a small fortune selling us his goods. Overall, the coral was amazing. This heart of the coral triangle contains more biodiversity within a football field sized area than the entire Caribbean Sea.
Only a few dive sites had an impressive amount of fish. Frail, scarce, and terrorized sharks could sometimes be seen in the dark depths. Plastic was very present everywhere, mostly floating at the surface. Together with the passengers and crew, we must have collected a dozen kilos of it from the sea during the trip. Because the ship served any fish at all, and because passengers would have it on a near-daily basis, I’ve had to wonder how much of that fish came from or impacted this MPA or another one. I tried to follow Ryan, my bunkmate, into going vegetarian, but rapidly tired of the tempe and tofu. Meat consumption contributes to roughly one third of global greenhouse gas emissions.
By choice or by fate, we are done eating the sea. Every year our taxes subsidize the 30+ billion dollars worldwide overfishing effort, making each one of us an active participant in the devastation of the ocean, regardless of our consumption choices. Fish plays such an important role for the food security of hundreds of millions of people worldwide. It should and could be better managed. Sustainably managing marine resources could trigger societal breakthrough of the magnitude of the invention of agriculture 12,000 years ago.
In Raja Ampat, one of the last remaining coral gardens of the planet, which has now been protected with no-take zones for 10 years, there is still ways to go to provide alternate livelihoods to local populations, and alternate meals and habits to visiting tourists. As fish stocks dwindle worldwide, this heart of the coral triangle needs improved surveillance and enforcement to protect its biological resources from local and international covetousness. Improved zoning and the creation of specific fishing corridors could ensure long-term subsistence fishing while conserving key sites.
Re-discovering the ship-littered harbor that’s Sorong after ten days at sea, Karen, one of the passengers, exclaimed: “wow. so much metal”. In this small harbor, handfuls of fortunate souls board wooden sailboats with eyes and minds wide open to absorb every instant. Those who disembark on the pier struggle to retain the precious images of untamed nature in their minds amidst the assaults of advertising announcements and screaming screens.
Special thanks to the Seven Seas team and Big Blue lights for sponsoring me on this trip.
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For more blogs from Pierre-Yves Cousteau, visit cousteaudivers.wordpress.com.
Ho Ho Ho! Vobster Quay’s recording-breaking charity Santa diving event returns on Sunday 15th December 2024 for another round of festive fundraising frivolities. Run in aid of the Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI) and Help For Heroes, this ever-popular annual fundraising event aims to raise sack-loads of cash for these two very deserving charities.
Divers of all levels are invited to grab their Santa outfits – and as much festive cheer as they can muster – and head down to Vobster Quay near Mells, Somerset for a mass sponsored Santa dive in aid of charity. In previous years, the event has attracted divers from the far corners of the UK to join in the festive merriment for a final festive dive before the Christmas and New Year break. Back in 2015, the event smashed the world record for the most Santa divers with 188 divers taking to the waters donning their festive finery – a record that remains unbeaten to this day!
Vobster Santas isn’t just about setting records – it’s also about raising some serious cash for charity. Vobster Quay encourages all divers to get into the spirit of the season to raise much-needed funds for two very deserving charities – the Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI) and Help For Heroes.
Through individual sponsorship and online donations, divers can invite their friends, family and work colleagues to sponsor them to plunge into the balmy waters of Vobster Quay dressed in full festive finery. Since the very first Santa dive in 2007, the event has raised over £52,000 for charity. “It’s been over 17 years since the very first charity Santa dive took place at Vobster Quay and every year the event just keeps getting bigger and better” enthused Vobster Quay owner, Amy Stanton.
“Vobster Santas is a great way for divers to say a massive thank you to the both the RNLI and Help For Heroes – two very deserving charities close to our hearts. We’re immensely proud of all that Vobster Santas has achieved and hope that even more divers will join this year’s event on Sunday 15th December. I’m confident that we can make Vobster Santas 2024 the biggest yet!”.
Divers wishing to participate can get involved by simply registering their attendance at
www.vobster.com/event-vobstersantas.php.
Blogs
Dive into Adventure at Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa: The Ultimate Diving Destination in the Maldives
Tucked away in the remote northern Haa Alifu Atoll, Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa is a premier destination for anyone seeking an unforgettable underwater experience. With over 30 dive sites to explore, divers of all levels can witness the unique and mesmerising beauty of the underwater world. Whether you’re a seasoned diver or new to the sport, Hideaway offers an exceptional diving adventure that is not to be missed.
Explore the Beauty Beneath the Surface
Hideaway is perfectly situated near some of the most spectacular dive sites in the Maldives. The dive school and team at Hideaway offer a very personalised experience to ensure each diver gets an interactive, immersive experience.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Unique dive spots such as Theefaridhoo Thila (Heaven and Hell) as one of the 50 best dive sites in the whole of the Maldives, known for its beautiful soft coral gardens.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
As the resort is located next to a channel which gives guests surprise visits from eagle rays, manta rays, guitar sharks and more.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
One of the standout features of diving in the Haa Alifu Atoll is the abundance of rare and exotic marine species. The area is known for sightings of whale sharks, manta rays, turtles, and a variety of colorful reef fish. Diving at Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa offers a rare opportunity to encounter these creatures in their natural habitat, creating lifelong memories for guests.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Whether you’re exploring deep coral gardens, dramatic overhangs, or vibrant reef walls, each dive offers something new and exciting. The visibility in the Maldives is exceptional, often exceeding 30 meters, making it ideal for both underwater photography and general exploration.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Diving for All Levels
At Hideaway, we believe that everyone should have the opportunity to experience the thrill of diving. That’s why we cater to divers of all levels, from beginners to experienced professionals. Our professional dive center, led by expert instructors, offers a range of courses and guided dives. If you’re new to diving, you can start with an introductory course that will teach you the basics of scuba diving in a safe and controlled environment.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
For more experienced divers, we offer advanced dive courses and guided excursions to some of the more challenging dive sites. Our instructors are knowledgeable and passionate about the local marine life, ensuring that every dive is not only safe but also informative and enjoyable.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Exclusive Diving Offer
To make your stay even more unforgettable, Hideaway is offering an exclusive diving package designed to enhance your experience both above and below the water. When you book a minimum 7-night stay, you’ll receive:
- 35% discount on room rates.
- Complimentary diving: 3 dives per person for 2 guests, allowing you to experience the beauty of the Maldives underwater world.
- Free meal plan upgrade: enjoy a complimentary upgrade from Bed & Breakfast to Half Board, or from Half Board to Full Board. Guests who prefer the White Platinum Plan (WPP) can avail it at a discounted rate.
This incredible offer provides the perfect opportunity to experience world-class diving while enjoying all the luxury and comfort that Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa is known for.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Combinable Offers for Even More Value
This diving offer can also be combined with our Anniversary and Honeymoon offers, allowing you to create the perfect celebration package. Whether you’re celebrating a milestone or simply seeking a romantic getaway, this offer ensures that you can enjoy the best of both worlds – luxurious accommodations and unforgettable diving adventures.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Terms & Conditions
- This offer is available exclusively for bookings made through the official Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa website using a specific booking code.
- The offer cannot be combined with other promotions available on the website or through other channels, nor can it be redeemed for cash.
- All dives are subject to weather conditions, ensuring the safety and enjoyment of all guests.
- Black-out dates: This offer is not available from 24th December 2024 to 9th January 2025.
To book this exquisite offer, use the Promo Code: SCUBA24FD
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Hideaway is not just a resort; it’s a sanctuary for those seeking peace, adventure, and luxury. With spacious villas, private pools, and world-class dining options, the resort offers everything you need for a perfect holiday. From tennis, golf, gym, cycling to the exquisite underwater activities, unique dining options, Hideaway has something for everyone. And for diving enthusiasts, it provides an unparalleled opportunity to explore some of the most beautiful dive sites in the world.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Our dive center is fully equipped with state-of-the-art gear, ensuring that every dive is safe, comfortable, and enjoyable. Our instructors are passionate about the underwater world and are eager to share their knowledge with you, whether it’s your first dive or your 100th.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
The Ultimate Dive Adventure Awaits
If you’re looking for an unforgettable diving holiday in the Maldives, look no further than Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa. With over 30 dive sites, unique marine life, and exclusive offers, we provide the ultimate underwater experience. Whether you’re celebrating a special occasion or simply seeking adventure, our diving package offers exceptional value and incredible memories.
Book now through our official website to take advantage of this exclusive offer and prepare for the dive adventure of a lifetime.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Call: +960 650-1515
Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
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