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Pierre-Yves Cousteau’s Galapagos: Final Dives

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Read Part 2 of Pierre-Yves’ Galapagos blog here.

One week in San Cristobal followed by a second diving expedition. Nothing scheduled but sunsets the first week. The waterfront of San Cristobal is forever bathed in the pungent smell of sea lion body odour. The Loberia and Punta Carola offer beautiful waves and vast spaces of peaceful wilderness. With nothing else to do, I decide to investigate further the establishment of the new marine sanctuary of Wolf and Darwin and its impact on the local population.

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Sunset at la Loberia.

I make my way to the Loberia, a beautiful rocky coast with beaches and powerful waves, to watch the sunset. I take a taxi to go there and back and ask the cab driver about the new sanctuary. He says many families on San Cristobal are fishermen, and that some of them used to go to Wolf and Darwin. He says there was a fishermen’s protest in the village that very morning in town. They are claiming their right to fish in Wolf and Darwin. He says that the three representatives of the fishermen cooperatives signed the agreement to make the sanctuary without consulting with their peers. He mentions rumors of bribery.

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I head to the mayor’s office to get his opinion about the new sanctuary. He says the sanctuary was imposed onto the fishermen, that they were not sufficiently consulted or compensated, and that they should be considered in these kinds of decisions. Regarding tourism in general, he says he wishes the marine activities related to the sanctuary benefitted the people of the islands more than they do, implying that foreign companies capture much of that value.

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The mayor of San Cristobal.

The next day I have lunch with Roberto Ochoa, a conservationist with marketing background who works with the ministry of tourism. He was part of the initiative to declare Wolf and Darwin no-take zones and joined their expedition earlier this year. According to their observations over 40 days, these two islands have the highest shark abundance in the world! He says the fishermen were not only consulted, they were also compensated for not fishing, subsidized to ease their reconversion to another professional activity. Later, a meeting with representatives of the ministry of environment of Ecuador reveals that much effort was put into building local consensus. They are shocked to hear about the protests, and say that the same people who are protesting signed the documents agreeing to the sanctuary.

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Roberto Ochoa and I chatting about plastic pollution, climate change and the marine sanctuary.

Why are there two opposite stories being told? How come the fishermen were demonstrating? Did the consultation and compensation package miss out some key stakeholders? Did the news of a compensation package suddenly turn the inhabitants of the island of San Cristobal into fishermen? The week goes by and I am unable to find an answer. Enforcing the sanctuary will be as hard as it is remote and uninhabited. Raising awareness and educating the local population to the world-class value of their natural resources will be extremely important in order to foster stewardship. The presidential signature last week marked the beginning of an endless endeavor, not the landmark of an accomplishment.

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Nostalgic iguana.

Seven sunsets later, I’ve met kind and interesting people in San Cristobal. I’ve seen sea lions crash salsa lessons and marine iguanas basking on black rocks, spitting seawater from their nostrils. I spoke to the students of San Francisco University about marine conservation issues and a small group stayed afterwards to discuss possible solutions out of the mess we’re in. Dying oceans… a collateral damage of our materialistic hypnosis. The silver bullet, if there is one, may reside in cultural and technological innovation.  We also discuss bottom-up conservation and the empowerment of local communities to manage their resources, the decentralisation of environmental decision-making. It is inspiring to see an enthusiastic and energetic young generation, motivated to make the world a better place.

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Students at the University of San Francisco in San Cristobal. Reinventing the world on a sunday morning?

Finally, I board the Galapagos Sky again and I meet the new passengers of this second expedition. They are mostly Indians from Bombay, from a variety of professional backgrounds, but also an English mathematician and banker couple and an American physicist with his retired army friend. Discussions on board range from spirituality and shamanism to quantum physics. New questions arise from our discussions… How can behavioral change be fostered in emerging economies, based on lessons learned from western countries? How can environmental stewardship compete for brain bandwidth, using the phenomenal behavioral conditioning machinery that is advertising and marketing. One day perhaps, faced with environmental emergency, mankind will use the powerful tools that created the problem to steer the ship.

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Marine iguana from Fernandina Island enjoying some delicious algae.

A few days later, we are diving again, in what I now feel is the richest, most extraordinary dive site in the world. Every instant of each dive in the Galapagos Islands, my attention is captured by some agitation of their untamed ecosystem. Everywhere around me, life is lush and surprising.

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An Eagle Ray gliding up the current.

Near the island of Fernandina, the sea’s surface is littered with scavenging marine iguanas, breathing turtles and sunbathing sea lions. I befriend a puffer fish that follows me during a whole dive. A whale exhales in the distance.

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Rivers of fish.

In Isabella, sea lions follow in my blind spot to use the video lights to hunt. One of them photo-bombs a test-shot: I did not see it for the whole dive, but discover it in one of my pictures… In Bartolome, I lose orientation as I enter a cloud of dozens of Mobula rays, feeling as though I am one of them.

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A cloud of Mobula Rays

Back in Wolf and Darwin, rivers of fish flow along the rocky seascape against the current. Two white-tip sharks engage in a circular mating dance, the male biting down regularly on the female’s pectoral fins. Out of the deep blue, a group of hammerheads daringly approach me and scatter as soon as I can no longer hold my bubbles… Returning from the dives, dolphins play in the bow of our dingy.

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A dolphin escorts us back to the ship from our dive at Darwin.

Temperatures varied greatly from site to site, from 19 to 28 degrees Celsius, and again I collected them using the Sensus Ultra and my dive computer as part of Project Hermes. The currents had greatly reduced since the last trip, and overall temperatures were a couple degrees lower. The El-Niño phenomenon seems to be receding here, just as corals begin to bleach on the other side of the planet, in Northern Australia. I leave the Sensus recording device with our guide Jeff, who agrees to using it on his dives year-round, which will provide a more comprehensive data set. This is the first of thirty locations to receive the temperature logger across the world.

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Our dive guide Jeff.

Just as I am zipping up my wetsuit and slipping into my BCD for the next dive, I spot a tiny ship approaching the Sky. Manned by two, it is a fishing craft. The captain hails them. They are perhaps the first poachers of the sanctuary, barely a week after it’s declaration. I can hardly believe the effort they have put into reaching these islands: on their minuscule vessel, they must have sailed for 3 days non-stop in the open sea to reach Wolf, the deck of their boat covered in gasoline containers. The captain tells them that they are not allowed here anymore. They reply that they know, but that their engine broke and that they drifted into the sanctuary… Sure. Today there are only 5 diving operators authorized in the sanctuary, taking turns. That means that at least 2 days a week there is nobody around to report illegal fishing. Our dive guide Jeff says that at least the presence of traditional fishermen dissuaded illegal poachers to enter in the past. The captain of the Sky argues that “traditional” fishermen were sometimes collaborating with poachers.

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These fishermen, who have probably fished here their whole lives, are now illegal visitors at Wolf and Darwin.

It seems that despite significant efforts to build consensus and help fishermen reconvert to tourism activities, the actual enforcement of the newly minted Wolf and Darwin sanctuary will be difficult. Let’s hope it’s not another “protection only on paper” and that a new socio-economic balance will be found that allows for meaningful conservation of this precious jewel of the ocean, one of the few remaining.

This concludes the story of the 2016 Cousteau Divers – Waterproof Expeditions Galapagos trip. I leave the islands and return to Europe to pursue my work with IUCN and Cousteau Divers. In the coming weeks, I will release a video compiling the most thrilling moments of the trip. Join me on the next adventure to Tahiti, in July 2017!

~ Pierre-Yves Cousteau

www.cousteaudivers.org

www.waterproof-expeditions.com

For more blogs from Pierre-Yves Cousteau, visit cousteaudivers.wordpress.com.

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Discover Curaçao with the Ultimate Dive Vacation Guide – 2024 DEMA Special Edition

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Dive Travel Curaçao is thrilled to announce the launch of the Curaçao Dive Vacation Guide – 2024 DEMA Special Edition, an expertly curated resource that unveils the unparalleled dive experiences and vacation possibilities awaiting you in Curaçao. Produced exclusively for the Diving Equipment & Marketing Association (DEMA) Show 2024, this special edition guide is packed with exclusive insights, travel tips, and limited-time DEMA offers that make it easier than ever to explore Curaçao’s stunning underwater landscapes and vibrant culture.

Explore Curaçao’s Unmatched Diving Opportunities

With over 70 diverse dive sites along its southern coastline, Curaçao is a bucket-list destination for divers of all experience levels. From thriving coral reefs and intricate marine ecosystems to historic shipwrecks, the island offers a variety of underwater experiences that are hard to match. The Curaçao Dive Vacation Guide – 2024 DEMA Special Edition provides detailed recommendations for both shore and boat diving, making it a valuable tool for divers seeking the best entry points, pristine reefs, and hidden treasures along the coastline. Whether you are an avid wreck diver, or a beginner interested in shallow reefs, Curaçao has it all.

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Uncover Eco-Friendly Dive Resorts and Top Dive Operators

This DEMA 2024-exclusive Curaçao guide goes beyond diving to feature insider information on Curaçao’s eco-friendly accommodations, dive resorts, and top-rated dive operators committed to sustainable dive tourism. From all-inclusive resorts that support coral reef restoration initiatives to charming boutique hotels near prime dive locations, the guide helps travelers find the ideal stay to match their vacation goals. It also spotlights trusted dive operators on the island who prioritize environmental preservation, offering travelers a way to enjoy the underwater world responsibly.

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Immerse Yourself in Curaçao’s Culture, Culinary Delights, and Adventure

Curaçao offers a vibrant Caribbean culture rich in history, music, and culinary fusion. The guide reveals Curaçao’s hidden gems, including culinary hotspots, historical sites, and eco-tourism opportunities that will appeal to both divers and non-divers. Visitors can explore the island’s iconic architecture, savor a diverse range of dishes influenced by Caribbean, European, and South American flavors, and embark on land-based eco-adventures, such as hiking, cave exploration, and visiting national parks.

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Exclusive DEMA 2024 Specials and Limited-Time Dive Packages

This special edition guide features limited-time DEMA 2024 offers on dive packages, accommodations, and excursions. Travelers who book through Dive Travel Curaçao, or our Curaçao dive travel partners attending DEMA, will have access to exclusive discounts on custom dive vacation packages, making it easier to plan an affordable, high-quality dive trip that fits your preferences. The Curaçao Dive Vacation Guide – 2024 DEMA Special Edition is designed to simplify your travel planning and help you dive deeper into the incredible experiences that Curaçao has to offer.

It’s Time to Dive Curaçao!

Now is the time to discover why Curaçao is a top dive destination in the Caribbean! Dive Travel Curaçao invites you to experience an unforgettable dive vacation with exclusive DEMA 2024 specials tailored just for you. To secure your spot, download a copy of the Curaçao Dive Vacation Guide – 2024 DEMA Special Edition and contact the Dive Travel Curaçao team to start customizing your Caribbean dive adventure today.

For more information and bookings, please visit Dive Curaçao’s website or contact our reservations team directly.

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Santa Divers take the Plunge for Charity

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Ho Ho Ho! Vobster Quay’s recording-breaking charity Santa diving event returns on Sunday 15th December 2024 for another round of festive fundraising frivolities. Run in aid of the Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI) and Help For Heroes, this ever-popular annual fundraising event aims to raise sack-loads of cash for these two very deserving charities.

Divers of all levels are invited to grab their Santa outfits – and as much festive cheer as they can muster – and head down to Vobster Quay near Mells, Somerset for a mass sponsored Santa dive in aid of charity. In previous years, the event has attracted divers from the far corners of the UK to join in the festive merriment for a final festive dive before the Christmas and New Year break. Back in 2015, the event smashed the world record for the most Santa divers with 188 divers taking to the waters donning their festive finery – a record that remains unbeaten to this day!

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Vobster Santas isn’t just about setting records – it’s also about raising some serious cash for charity. Vobster Quay encourages all divers to get into the spirit of the season to raise much-needed funds for two very deserving charities – the Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI) and Help For Heroes.

Through individual sponsorship and online donations, divers can invite their friends, family and work colleagues to sponsor them to plunge into the balmy waters of Vobster Quay dressed in full festive finery. Since the very first Santa dive in 2007, the event has raised over £52,000 for charity. “It’s been over 17 years since the very first charity Santa dive took place at Vobster Quay and every year the event just keeps getting bigger and better” enthused Vobster Quay owner, Amy Stanton.

“Vobster Santas is a great way for divers to say a massive thank you to the both the RNLI and Help For Heroes – two very deserving charities close to our hearts. We’re immensely proud of all that Vobster Santas has achieved and hope that even more divers will join this year’s event on Sunday 15th December. I’m confident that we can make Vobster Santas 2024 the biggest yet!”.

Divers wishing to participate can get involved by simply registering their attendance at
www.vobster.com/event-vobstersantas.php.

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