Travel Stories
Lissenung Island – Paradise Found
Christopher travels to Lissenung Island in Papua New Guinea for a dream dive experience
Have you ever dreamt about staying on a remote tropical island, being lulled to sleep by the gentle lap of the waves on the white sand beach, the wind softly rustling the leaves of the palm trees, as images of the day’s diving among spectacular coral and schools of fish float through your mind?
Dream no more. Lissenung Island, twenty minutes by boat south of Kavieng harbour is that paradise island. Owned by Austrian ex-engineer Dietmar Amon and his wife Ange, its seven rooms are ideally located for diving both the South Pacific Ocean sites to the north and the Bismarck Sea sites to the south, and around the numerous small islands that cover the area. The usual routine sees the dive boat leave after breakfast and return for lunch. Afternoon dives leave around 3 PM, and dusk dives to look for the impossibly colourful mandarinfish can be organised.
The aptly nudibranch-shaped island is nestled half-way between the jaws of western New Ireland, and has coral reef around two-thirds of its small shore. I say aptly named as although New Ireland has a deserved reputation for big schools of pelagics, from bumphead parrotfish to silvertip sharks, Dietmar is an ardent fan of the oceans’ smaller, slower occupants.
Nudibranchs, a sort of brightly coloured sea slug of which there are over 800 species, and cowries, marine molluscs, are amongst his favourite finds. Although they might sound like the underwater equivalent of spotting stationary trains, Dietmar has fascinating tales about their underwater feats. Who would have thought that one of the deadliest creatures in the ocean is the geographicus cone shell, also known as the cigarette snail, as smoking one last one is about all a human has time to do after being bitten by one.
We arrived for lunch, and as we strode ashore and up the short beach to be greeted by our hosts, it was impossible not to break into a grin. The only shoes we’d be wearing for a week were fins as the path from the restaurant to our chalet was velvety soft sand.
Straight after lunch we sorted our kit out, boarded the twin-hulled dive boat, and headed back to Kavieng harbour for an afternoon muck dive on an upturned Pete WW2 Japanese float plane, and around the wharf, where a decent number of the marine world’s weird and wonderful inhabitants such as ghost pipefish, nudibranchs and shrimps, octopus, and pipefish dwell.
The harbour tends to be a bit murky given its sandy bottom and protected nature, but the dives sites on the reefs between the islands were much clearer. The changing tides produce some strong currents that flush clear waters from the deep sea over the abundant reefs and through tiny passages. It is during those currents that the pelagics pitch up; Grey, blacktip, and whitetip reef sharks, tunas, mackerels, schools of jacks and barracudas are frequent visitors to the numerous dive sites to the north and the south.
The following morning we headed south to Danny’s Bommy. Starting at 7m, it is connected to the island via a saddle down at 15 metres, and on the outside it plummets straight down into the inky blue depths. We dropped in and headed down to 30 metres where a school of twenty-odd, large humphead parrotfish were cruising. They didn’t stop, and I think the coral must’ve been very pleased. These 40-kilo fish look like they could do some serious grazing with their beaks (really teeth fused together) and, unlike most other parrotfish, are partial to live coral as well as the algae that live on them. Coming back up I spied a white-bonnet anemonefish, the eighth of the nine species that live in PNG waters that I had seen. Now only the panda or saddleback anemone fish was missing. We ended the dive among the schools of fusiliers adorned the top of the coral-covered bommie, gazing into the blue.
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After relaxing in the sun on the boat (there is plenty of shade, but I get plenty of that back home) with some fresh fruit, we headed over to Kavin II and its long wall for a spot of pygmy sea horse hunting on gorgonian fans. Nozaki, the resident instructor, soon gave me the underwater “look here, small stuff” sign, and sure enough, right where she was pointing, was a miniscule centimetre-long, knobbly pink seahorse. Amazing.
I snapped a few shots off before thinking that I had to be able to find it for myself before I could use the picture, otherwise it would be like getting someone to hunt trophies for you. I turned my head away and looked back. Gone. I knew what it looked like, I knew where it was to within a square metre, but, try as I might, I could not find it. I searched, my face inches from the fan, for several minutes, until I started to go cross-eyed and lose the ability to focus. Nozaki came back, waved her hand in front of the fan gently, and found it in under ten seconds, and left me to continue my challenge.
I tried the hand wave, more a flexing of the fingers than a regal Queen Liz special, and lo and behold something tiny was swaying before my squinting eyes, its tail curled around apiece of fan. I was a pygmy seahorse hunter and raised my camera and snapped away under the watchful eyes of a longnose hawkfish, whose presence I’d totally overlooked. So engrossed was I in my quest for one of PNG’s dive grails, I’d almost missed this photographer’s chalice. As I’d been down there for so long, it had got used to my presence and pouted for me until dive computer told me that it was time to ascend to shallower depths.
Closer to the surface my camera found little respite as Ange pointed out a leaf of seagrass that had legs and a pair of eyes. A superbly camouflaged halemeda crab was lurking on the wall. About 20 metres further along one of his cousins, the slightly more conspicuous but equally small orang-utan crab was trying to hide in a crack. After seventy minutes we were unsurprisingly low on air, low on battery, and pretty famished.
After lunch at the resort, a battery change, and a decent snooze, just before dusk we headed north to a destination known only as Nozaki’s Secret. It is listed on the dive site map, but not shown. Why the secrecy? Mandarinfish. These impossibly brightly coloured creatures attain six centimetres in length, and are nocturnal. Not surprising given how well they stand out in daylight. Odd as this may seem, it is part of their defensive system. One of the few scaleless fish species, they are protected by a toxic mucous and their Chinese lord’s robe motif is a good example of aposematic coloration – where toxic creatures warn potential predators of their inedibility through the use of bright colours.
Five metres below the surface, Nozaki set up two underwater torches on sticks to illuminate a head of finger coral and we settled in to watch the show. The males put on dancing displays to attract one of the numerous females. When a female was suitably impressed she would rub up against the male’s pelvic fin, the pair would rise up 50 centimetres from the coral head for 10 to 15 seconds, release a mixture of eggs and sperm, and then shoot back to the protection of the coral. Trying to get the camera to focus in the low light during one of these brief forays into the open proved to be quite a challenge, and we spent a good half an hour watching a succession of males dance and the subsequent mating.
Over the next four days we dived the best reefs to the north and the south, and enjoyed them all. Matrix has fantastic hard corals in the shallows and huge fan corals from 20m downwards make beautiful scenery. Drifting along, on the current the reef was a riot of vivid colours as anthias and butterfly fish danced around the corals. This is probably the most beautiful drift dive around Kavieng.
Peter’s Patch, at the south eastern tip of a large reef system in the Steffen Strait, is great for batfish and pelagics, with tuna and barracuda a-plenty. On the other end of the reef system lies Helmut’s Reef, and here we found leaf fish and white-bonnet anemonefish, one of the rarer of the nine species of anemonefish found in PNG.
But the best site in the area, in my opinion, is the amazing Albatross Passage. On an incoming tide this narrow passage between two islands is like fish soup. As water comes in from the deep and gets closer to a shelf nine metres below the surface it speeds up and draws in a myriad of fish life from the food chain. Schools of sardine-sized fusiliers and snappers looking for lunch brought by the upwelling waters attract dogtooth tunas and barracudas, which in turn attract grey reef, blacktip, whitetip and sometimes silvertip sharks. Eagle and devil rays are sometimes seen here, and hooking onto the top of the reef and watching the action over the top of the wall is a spectacular experience.
The wall itself is covered with big fan corals, black corals, soft branching coral, and sponges and this is the home for small creatures like nudibranchs, leaf fish, and scorpionfish. At around 30 metres there is a sandy shelf that does a good job of reflecting the light, and even when the current is pumping at the top, the deeper sections of the wall and the shelf are calm. On a foray to find more pygmy seahorses and long-nosed hawkfish, a large cuttlefish gave us a display of its ability to change colours. We dived this site three times, and would gladly go there every day.
Afternoon dives on the house reef that goes two-thirds of the way around the island are free, and much of the best stuff is in three metres of water, making it ideal for snorkelling too. It doesn’t take too much luck to get a glimpse of juvenile blacktip reef sharks around the far side of the island, but here I was interested in something a little more elusive. I had photographed eight of PNG’s nine anemonefish species, but was missing one. The panda or saddleback anemonefish. Wading into the water, past the seahorse lolling around like a seemingly listless drunk, I followed Dietmar’s directions to the mooring buoy, turned right, and swam over the sandy bottom for all of 30 seconds. Lo and behold, in a small anemone was my prize. And they weren’t alone. A couple of transparent anemone shrimp were out too, and kindly posed for me.
Several times a year, Lissenung’s twin-engined 26-foot Ozycat heads northwards to New Hanover on expeditions to explore virgin reefs, a Japanese two-man submarine, and Chapman’s reef and its resident giant groupers, staying in guesthouses on different islands depending on the itinerary. For Ange and Dietmar, this tiny island has become home, but for us, this was paradise.
Papua New Guinea travel: PNG is three hour’s flight time north of Australia, six hours from Singapore, and has weekly and twice weekly direct flights from a range of destinations like Manila, Cebu, Bali, Sydney, Cairns, Hong Kong and Tokyo. Within PNG, the best way (and often only) way to get around is by air either with Air Niugini or Airlines of PNG. Lissenung Island’s closest airport is Kavieng, and has daily flights from Port Moresby. Returns are around $400 USD.
Best of PNG put together tailor-made dive trips that can also take in the best Sing-Sings (cultural festivals) on the PNG calendar, trekking up Mt Wilhelm or the Kokoda Trail, and Sepik River expeditions. www.bestofpng.com
Exciting news is on the horizon at the beloved dive resorts, Magic Resorts Philippines!
On January 2nd 2005, the journey of Magic Resorts began, when Magic Island opened its doors as one of the first dedicated dive resorts in Moalboal, Cebu. Now, as we look forward to 2025, a significant milestone is on the horizon: Magic Island’s 20th anniversary!
In preparation for this momentous occasion, the resort has recently upgraded their facilities, including renovated bathrooms, ensuring a fresh and modern experience for their guests. The stage is set for a fantastic celebration!
To cherish and celebrate two decades of incredible diving experiences, Magic Resorts will be offering a special 20% anniversary discount to all guests celebrating with them at either Magic Island or its larger sister resort, Magic Oceans in Anda, Bohol, throughout the entire year of 2025!*
NOT CONVINCED YET?
To kick off the anniversary celebration, here are 20 reasons to book your holiday at Magic Island in 2025!
1) 20-year anniversary!
Of course the anniversary is the perfect occasion to stay at Magic Island and the anniversary special offers you to enjoy a stay with 20% discount! Whether you’re a seasoned diver, new to scuba, a past guest, or a new to Magic’s concept, this is an excellent opportunity to experience the magic of Magic Island Dive Resort.
2) Amazing marine life
Moalboal has been a top dive destination in the Philippines for decades, and for a good reason. This laid-back town at the Westcoast of Cebu offers unforgettable experiences for divers and non-divers alike. Located in the Coral Triangle, Moalboal boasts hundreds of coral species and unique critters, but also features unique sights that make it a standout dive destination not just in the Philippines, but globally!
3) Enjoy newly renovated bathrooms first-hand!
In preparation for the 20-year anniversary, Magic Island renovated all bathrooms of the bungalows last August 2024! The new, spacious and modernized bathrooms offer the best comfort during your stay. As a visitor in 2025, you’ll be among the first to enjoy these upgraded amenities with a perfect view.
4) Dive with Whale Sharks the whole year around
Magic Island offers the possibility to dive with Whale Sharks throughout the entire year!
Unlike many other accommodations that only offer snorkeling with the Whale Sharks, Magic Island is accredited to dive with them with their own dive masters, tanks and crew.
5) Easily accessible house reef
Magic Island’s house reef is open 24/7 and easily accessible within only a few steps from the dive center. You are welcome to make an unguided house reef dive any time of day with your buddy. The house reef starts with a sloping area where you can find the resident sea horse and blue ringed octopus among other life, whereafter you’ll reach the amazing wall where you’ll find turtles, nudibranchs and much more!
6) Native-style bungalows with Western features
The modernized bathrooms are a great Western feature in the native looking style bungalows. While the bungalows have their Filipino native style look, with Nipa rooftops, bamboo balconies and panels of Amakan (woven split-bamboo), they have Western amenities such as air conditioning and a minibar.
7) Dive the Sardine Ball the whole year around
One of the reasons why Moalboal became famous for divers in the first place: you can dive the Sardine Run the whole year around! It’s not a seasonal sighting like other places and therefore a very special phenomenon (even for marine biologists). You can dive with over a million sardines while staying at Magic Island every day of the year!
8) Unparalleled service
The excellent staff of Magic Island ensures you have the best time possible. The team members have been part of the Magic journey for many years – some even from day one! The outstanding Philippine hospitality combined with their experience are the perfect ingredients for exceptional service. They’ll remember your name and do whatever they can to make you feel at home from day one.
9) Fully equipped dive center on site
Magic Island Dive Resort has its own fully equipped PADI dive center right on site. The dive center is equipped with 3 compressors (providing nitrox as well), 3 Bangka boats, full sets of rental gear, aluminium tanks with Int. & DIN connection, and an in-house instructor to name a few. Walk down to the dive center in less than a minute after your meal in the restaurant and get ready for diving!
10) Mating Mandarin fish on the house reef every day!
The real signature dive at Magic Island is without a doubt the Mandarin dive. Just a short swim from the dive center leads you to an underwater spectacle that’s nothing short of magical. Every day during sunset, the Mandarin fish emerge from their coral hideaways for their mating ritual. These colourful and beautifully patterned fish are a species of the Dragonet that are rarely seen outside their coral homes except during this special time. A great sighting just in Magic Islands’ backyard and a great challenge for photographers!
11) Beyond regular night dives
In addition to standard night dives, Magic Island elevates the experience with unique offerings like Fluoro dives and bonfire dives, providing a completely different dimension. If conditions permit, you can also embark on black water dives, where you’ll encounter the mysterious and seldom-seen creatures that emerge during night time.
12) Go down with a local expert!
The dive team of Magic Island make your underwater adventures hassle-free and fun.
You don’t have to carry your tanks or set up your gear, they will take care of that for you. The team of trained PADI Dive masters is local and know the area better than anyone. With their experience, incredible eye for detail and sense of humour, you will have the best dive experience!
13) More than 30 dive sites in less than a 25-minute boat ride
On one of the traditionally Bangka boats, Magic Island takes you out diving around the whole peninsula of Moalboal. 30 different dive sites are waiting for you to explore, all within only a 25-minute. Moalboal’s highlight, Pescador Island, is only 10 minutes away!
14) Freshly prepared meals in family-dinner style
The dining area at Magic Island fosters a sense of community with interconnected tables that encourage socializing. Enjoy a diverse selection of freshly prepared local and Western dishes while watching the chefs at work in the open kitchen. Dietary restrictions? Just let them know, and they’ll accommodate your needs with care.
15) Wet adventures above the surface!
Aside from diving, Magic Island offers great daytrips to explore the culture and nature of Cebu Island. One of the absolute highlights is a trip to the Kawasan Waterfalls, where you can choose between a relaxing visit to enjoy the fresh water and stunning views, or an adventurous canyoneering experience with hiking, climbing, jumping, gliding, and swimming.
16) Experience Moalboal in peace
While Moalboal is a popular destination, Magic Island provides a serene escape from the hustle and bustle. Tucked away from busy areas, the resort creates a tranquil oasis where you can relax while still being close to Moalboal’s vibrant life.
17) Suitable for each kind of diver
With just 10 bungalows, Magic Island offers a cozy and intimate setting for all types of travelers — whether you’re in a group, a couple, or traveling solo. The rich marine life and accessible diving conditions make it an ideal destination for divers of all experience levels.
18) Unique signature drinks!
The homely bar at Magic Island offers a range of beverages to enjoy while taking in breathtaking ocean views. Don’t miss the signature drinks made with Ube Cream, a local liqueur that won the World’s Best Cream Liqueur title at the 2022 World Liqueur Awards. Experience the true Filipino fiesta spirit with this exceptional drink.
19) Combine with Magic Oceans
You can extend your wonderful stay at Magic Island elsewhere! Magic Islands newer and bigger sister Magic Oceans in Anda, Bohol opened its doors in 2015, offering you the possibility to get the maximum out of your magical dive trip by combining the two locations. The same ambience, quality of serviced and most importantly: an amazing diving experience!
20) Just because you’ll have a great time!
The reasons to visit Magic Island in 2025 are endless, but the most important one is that you’re guaranteed to have a fantastic time. With exceptional service, friendly and experienced staff, an ideal location, and outstanding diving, Magic Island promises an unforgettable experience.
CONTACT MAGIC RESORTS FOR YOUR QUOTE ON AN UNPARALLELED DIVING HOLIDAY!
Email: reservations@magicresorts.online
Website: www.magicresorts.online
Facebook: www.facebook.com/magicisland.diveresort
Instagram: www.instagram.com/magic_island_dive_resort
Diving in Gibraltar is an experience that truly sets itself apart. Situated at the confluence of the Atlantic and Mediterranean, it offers an underwater world rich in both marine life and history. Whether you’re a complete novice or a seasoned diver, Gibraltar is ready to take you on an unforgettable journey beneath the waves.
One of the most remarkable aspects of diving in Gibraltar is the artificial reef project. Over the years, several ships have been deliberately sunk to create vibrant underwater habitats. Among the most popular sites are the Spanish Barges, 482M, and Batty’s Barge, all located in the local favourite, Camp Bay. The Spanish Barges are a series of four wrecks, two of which were sunk as part of Gibraltar’s artificial reef programme in the 1980s. They rest at varying depths, ranging from 7 to 22 metres, making them accessible for divers of all skill levels. These wrecks, now teeming with marine life such as octopuses, conger eels, and nudibranchs, offer something for every diver, whether they enjoy swimming through wreckage or observing how marine species have transformed these vessels into thriving ecosystems.
For those more interested in history, Gibraltar’s waters host incredible wrecks like the SS Rosslyn and SS Excellent. The SS Rosslyn, a Cardiff-built steamer, sank in 1916 after dragging its anchor in a storm. Now lying at a depth of 23 metres, this 350-foot wreck attracts advanced divers eager to explore its remnants. Newer wrecks, like the Seahawk, sunk in 2002, and the Sun Swale, sunk in 2015, are part of Gibraltar’s ongoing reef expansion. These more recent additions are rapidly becoming important habitats, drawing species such as cuttlefish, spider crabs, and lobsters. Each of these wrecks offers divers the chance to experience a fusion of history and nature, with the wrecks evolving into vibrant marine environments over time.
Another must-see is the Seven Sisters Marine Conservation Zone (MCZ), known for its rich biodiversity and contribution to the protection of marine species. This area is located close to The Inkwells, where divers can still find remnants of 18th- and 19th-century artifacts, including ceramic pipes, gin bottles, marble fragments, and cod bottles, lending a treasure-hunting aspect to each dive. Exploring this site is like taking a step back in time while being surrounded by a thriving underwater ecosystem.
The diving conditions in Gibraltar are just as diverse as the marine life it hosts. British Gibraltar Territorial Waters is home to a wide array of species, far more life than many other areas in the Mediterranean. This impressive biodiversity is largely due to the nutrient-rich waters that flow where the Atlantic and Mediterranean meet. Divers frequently encounter octopuses—Gibraltar’s charismatic species—along with conger eels, moray eels, thornback rays, and spider crabs. Lucky divers, especially during certain times of the year, might even spot Bluefin Atlantic Tuna swimming through the bay while feeding, as well as many other pelagic species. The sheer abundance of fish and the variety of species make each dive an exciting and unique experience, offering something new with every descent.
Gibraltar boasts its accessibility to diving and a wealth of different dive sites depending on your diving abilities, qualifications and experience. The South and East side dive sites are fantastic boat dives ranging in depths from 14m to 35m + where you can dive on rocky biogenic reefs with a vast array of marine life.
You will need a permit to dive which is easily issued by the Department of the Environment or you can dive with licenced dive operators who will cover this for you. There are also very active local BSAC dive clubs you may wish to get in touch with.
Gibraltar offers a full range of diving experiences for everyone, from first-timers to seasoned veterans. Shore diving is conducted six days a week, and on Sundays, you may venture out on a boat to explore some of the more distant wrecks, such as SS Rosslyn and Sun Swale. What makes diving in Gibraltar so accessible is that all our dive sites are within a 15-minute drive/boat ride, making it easy to fit multiple dives into a single day. Whether you’re taking your first steps into the underwater world with a try dive or you’re an advanced diver looking to explore wrecks and caves, we ensure that each dive is tailored to suit your needs and experience level.
Operations start early, and by 8:45 AM, dive centre teams are already busy preparing for the day’s dives ensuring everything is in place for divers. A typical dive day begins with a briefing that covers the dive plan, safety procedures, and site management, ensuring that everyone is comfortable and prepared for the adventure ahead. Whether it’s exploring historic wrecks or spotting charismatic marine life, each dive offers something special. After the first dive, you surface, switch tanks, and enjoy a surface interval sharing stories of what has been seen before briefing up for a second dip!
In addition to providing unforgettable diving experiences, Gibraltar is deeply committed to marine conservation and scientific research working closely with the Department of the Environment and the University of Gibraltar. Under the water we facilitate the university’s research on projects including coral health assessments and the transplantation of coral species such as Astroides calycularis and various gorgonians. These efforts are critical in preserving Gibraltar’s underwater ecosystems and ensuring that future generations of divers can enjoy its incredible biodiversity. These conservation initiatives are ongoing, and there is regular collaboration with students and researchers on various dive-related projects as they begin the Thesis modules of their degrees.
Dive Charters, Gibraltar’s predominant dive centre is also involved in some octopus research, with a project aimed at increasing the octopus population in Gibraltar’s waters. Working with the University of Gibraltar and the Department of the Environment, they have installed artisanal dens designed to encourage octopus to breed and thrive in the area. These dens have proven highly successful, and divers often encounter octopuses up close in their natural habitat. Observing these intelligent, curious creatures in action is always a highlight of our dives, and their growing population is a testament to the ongoing conservation work.
Diving in Gibraltar offers an unparalleled blend of history, marine life, and conservation. Whether you’re captivated by centuries-old shipwrecks or amazed by the diversity of species that call these waters home, Gibraltar provides a diving experience like no other and we are proud to share this incredible underwater world with divers from all over the globe. Our dedication to safety, fun, and environmental responsibility ensures that each dive leaves a lasting impression.
From beginners to experienced divers, we’ve got something for everyone. With all dive sites just a short ride away the wonders of Gibraltar are waiting for you!
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