Travel Stories
Lissenung Island – Paradise Found
Christopher travels to Lissenung Island in Papua New Guinea for a dream dive experience
Have you ever dreamt about staying on a remote tropical island, being lulled to sleep by the gentle lap of the waves on the white sand beach, the wind softly rustling the leaves of the palm trees, as images of the day’s diving among spectacular coral and schools of fish float through your mind?
Dream no more. Lissenung Island, twenty minutes by boat south of Kavieng harbour is that paradise island. Owned by Austrian ex-engineer Dietmar Amon and his wife Ange, its seven rooms are ideally located for diving both the South Pacific Ocean sites to the north and the Bismarck Sea sites to the south, and around the numerous small islands that cover the area. The usual routine sees the dive boat leave after breakfast and return for lunch. Afternoon dives leave around 3 PM, and dusk dives to look for the impossibly colourful mandarinfish can be organised.
The aptly nudibranch-shaped island is nestled half-way between the jaws of western New Ireland, and has coral reef around two-thirds of its small shore. I say aptly named as although New Ireland has a deserved reputation for big schools of pelagics, from bumphead parrotfish to silvertip sharks, Dietmar is an ardent fan of the oceans’ smaller, slower occupants.
Nudibranchs, a sort of brightly coloured sea slug of which there are over 800 species, and cowries, marine molluscs, are amongst his favourite finds. Although they might sound like the underwater equivalent of spotting stationary trains, Dietmar has fascinating tales about their underwater feats. Who would have thought that one of the deadliest creatures in the ocean is the geographicus cone shell, also known as the cigarette snail, as smoking one last one is about all a human has time to do after being bitten by one.
We arrived for lunch, and as we strode ashore and up the short beach to be greeted by our hosts, it was impossible not to break into a grin. The only shoes we’d be wearing for a week were fins as the path from the restaurant to our chalet was velvety soft sand.
Straight after lunch we sorted our kit out, boarded the twin-hulled dive boat, and headed back to Kavieng harbour for an afternoon muck dive on an upturned Pete WW2 Japanese float plane, and around the wharf, where a decent number of the marine world’s weird and wonderful inhabitants such as ghost pipefish, nudibranchs and shrimps, octopus, and pipefish dwell.
The harbour tends to be a bit murky given its sandy bottom and protected nature, but the dives sites on the reefs between the islands were much clearer. The changing tides produce some strong currents that flush clear waters from the deep sea over the abundant reefs and through tiny passages. It is during those currents that the pelagics pitch up; Grey, blacktip, and whitetip reef sharks, tunas, mackerels, schools of jacks and barracudas are frequent visitors to the numerous dive sites to the north and the south.
The following morning we headed south to Danny’s Bommy. Starting at 7m, it is connected to the island via a saddle down at 15 metres, and on the outside it plummets straight down into the inky blue depths. We dropped in and headed down to 30 metres where a school of twenty-odd, large humphead parrotfish were cruising. They didn’t stop, and I think the coral must’ve been very pleased. These 40-kilo fish look like they could do some serious grazing with their beaks (really teeth fused together) and, unlike most other parrotfish, are partial to live coral as well as the algae that live on them. Coming back up I spied a white-bonnet anemonefish, the eighth of the nine species that live in PNG waters that I had seen. Now only the panda or saddleback anemone fish was missing. We ended the dive among the schools of fusiliers adorned the top of the coral-covered bommie, gazing into the blue.
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After relaxing in the sun on the boat (there is plenty of shade, but I get plenty of that back home) with some fresh fruit, we headed over to Kavin II and its long wall for a spot of pygmy sea horse hunting on gorgonian fans. Nozaki, the resident instructor, soon gave me the underwater “look here, small stuff” sign, and sure enough, right where she was pointing, was a miniscule centimetre-long, knobbly pink seahorse. Amazing.
I snapped a few shots off before thinking that I had to be able to find it for myself before I could use the picture, otherwise it would be like getting someone to hunt trophies for you. I turned my head away and looked back. Gone. I knew what it looked like, I knew where it was to within a square metre, but, try as I might, I could not find it. I searched, my face inches from the fan, for several minutes, until I started to go cross-eyed and lose the ability to focus. Nozaki came back, waved her hand in front of the fan gently, and found it in under ten seconds, and left me to continue my challenge.
I tried the hand wave, more a flexing of the fingers than a regal Queen Liz special, and lo and behold something tiny was swaying before my squinting eyes, its tail curled around apiece of fan. I was a pygmy seahorse hunter and raised my camera and snapped away under the watchful eyes of a longnose hawkfish, whose presence I’d totally overlooked. So engrossed was I in my quest for one of PNG’s dive grails, I’d almost missed this photographer’s chalice. As I’d been down there for so long, it had got used to my presence and pouted for me until dive computer told me that it was time to ascend to shallower depths.
Closer to the surface my camera found little respite as Ange pointed out a leaf of seagrass that had legs and a pair of eyes. A superbly camouflaged halemeda crab was lurking on the wall. About 20 metres further along one of his cousins, the slightly more conspicuous but equally small orang-utan crab was trying to hide in a crack. After seventy minutes we were unsurprisingly low on air, low on battery, and pretty famished.
After lunch at the resort, a battery change, and a decent snooze, just before dusk we headed north to a destination known only as Nozaki’s Secret. It is listed on the dive site map, but not shown. Why the secrecy? Mandarinfish. These impossibly brightly coloured creatures attain six centimetres in length, and are nocturnal. Not surprising given how well they stand out in daylight. Odd as this may seem, it is part of their defensive system. One of the few scaleless fish species, they are protected by a toxic mucous and their Chinese lord’s robe motif is a good example of aposematic coloration – where toxic creatures warn potential predators of their inedibility through the use of bright colours.
Five metres below the surface, Nozaki set up two underwater torches on sticks to illuminate a head of finger coral and we settled in to watch the show. The males put on dancing displays to attract one of the numerous females. When a female was suitably impressed she would rub up against the male’s pelvic fin, the pair would rise up 50 centimetres from the coral head for 10 to 15 seconds, release a mixture of eggs and sperm, and then shoot back to the protection of the coral. Trying to get the camera to focus in the low light during one of these brief forays into the open proved to be quite a challenge, and we spent a good half an hour watching a succession of males dance and the subsequent mating.
Over the next four days we dived the best reefs to the north and the south, and enjoyed them all. Matrix has fantastic hard corals in the shallows and huge fan corals from 20m downwards make beautiful scenery. Drifting along, on the current the reef was a riot of vivid colours as anthias and butterfly fish danced around the corals. This is probably the most beautiful drift dive around Kavieng.
Peter’s Patch, at the south eastern tip of a large reef system in the Steffen Strait, is great for batfish and pelagics, with tuna and barracuda a-plenty. On the other end of the reef system lies Helmut’s Reef, and here we found leaf fish and white-bonnet anemonefish, one of the rarer of the nine species of anemonefish found in PNG.
But the best site in the area, in my opinion, is the amazing Albatross Passage. On an incoming tide this narrow passage between two islands is like fish soup. As water comes in from the deep and gets closer to a shelf nine metres below the surface it speeds up and draws in a myriad of fish life from the food chain. Schools of sardine-sized fusiliers and snappers looking for lunch brought by the upwelling waters attract dogtooth tunas and barracudas, which in turn attract grey reef, blacktip, whitetip and sometimes silvertip sharks. Eagle and devil rays are sometimes seen here, and hooking onto the top of the reef and watching the action over the top of the wall is a spectacular experience.
The wall itself is covered with big fan corals, black corals, soft branching coral, and sponges and this is the home for small creatures like nudibranchs, leaf fish, and scorpionfish. At around 30 metres there is a sandy shelf that does a good job of reflecting the light, and even when the current is pumping at the top, the deeper sections of the wall and the shelf are calm. On a foray to find more pygmy seahorses and long-nosed hawkfish, a large cuttlefish gave us a display of its ability to change colours. We dived this site three times, and would gladly go there every day.
Afternoon dives on the house reef that goes two-thirds of the way around the island are free, and much of the best stuff is in three metres of water, making it ideal for snorkelling too. It doesn’t take too much luck to get a glimpse of juvenile blacktip reef sharks around the far side of the island, but here I was interested in something a little more elusive. I had photographed eight of PNG’s nine anemonefish species, but was missing one. The panda or saddleback anemonefish. Wading into the water, past the seahorse lolling around like a seemingly listless drunk, I followed Dietmar’s directions to the mooring buoy, turned right, and swam over the sandy bottom for all of 30 seconds. Lo and behold, in a small anemone was my prize. And they weren’t alone. A couple of transparent anemone shrimp were out too, and kindly posed for me.
Several times a year, Lissenung’s twin-engined 26-foot Ozycat heads northwards to New Hanover on expeditions to explore virgin reefs, a Japanese two-man submarine, and Chapman’s reef and its resident giant groupers, staying in guesthouses on different islands depending on the itinerary. For Ange and Dietmar, this tiny island has become home, but for us, this was paradise.
Papua New Guinea travel: PNG is three hour’s flight time north of Australia, six hours from Singapore, and has weekly and twice weekly direct flights from a range of destinations like Manila, Cebu, Bali, Sydney, Cairns, Hong Kong and Tokyo. Within PNG, the best way (and often only) way to get around is by air either with Air Niugini or Airlines of PNG. Lissenung Island’s closest airport is Kavieng, and has daily flights from Port Moresby. Returns are around $400 USD.
Best of PNG put together tailor-made dive trips that can also take in the best Sing-Sings (cultural festivals) on the PNG calendar, trekking up Mt Wilhelm or the Kokoda Trail, and Sepik River expeditions. www.bestofpng.com
Lumbalumba Resort – Manado is an intimate dive and snorkel retreat nestled in Manado, North Sulawesi, Indonesia—a hidden gem within the world-renowned Coral Triangle, home to the planet’s highest marine biodiversity.
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
With only six luxurious chalets (just nine rooms), we provide a cozy, flexible atmosphere where every guest receives the genuine, personal attention they are looking for.
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
Our philosophy is simple: we can only succeed when you’re truly satisfied. Choosing to stay small allows us to deliver the extra-special, personalized service you seek, making your experience here genuinely unforgettable.
For us, you’re not just another tourist.
For you, we’re not just another dive resort.
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Rustique situated in our lush bontanical gardens are 3 different types of accommodation, including a family Chalet.
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Enjoy a relaxing dip in our infinity pool, unwind at the bar, and savor mouthwatering dishes from our renowned kitchen—each meal crafted to delight your taste buds in every bite.
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Lumbalumba Resort has two different kinds of boat; our inboard powered, custom-made catamaran, Diver III, and Diver IV, our fast outboard-powered dive boat.
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
Both are very comfortable with lots of space to relax from, to and in between dives.
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
Experience stunning visibility and vibrant coral reefs teeming with schooling fish. Bunaken is also a haven for marine life, boasting a thriving population of Hawksbill and Green Sea Turtles. It’s not uncommon to encounter 15 to 20 turtles on a single dive or snorkeling trip!
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
But it’s not just about the big sights and wide-angle views. Close to the resort, you’ll find numerous muck and macro dive sites, reminiscent of the famous Lembeh Strait. And let’s not forget the gem of Lumbalumba—the spectacular House Reef, perfect for exploring at your own pace.
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Read what what our guests think about us at
Tripadvisor
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
And read what our guests think of us at
SCUBAVERSE
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
Beyond diving and snorkeling, there’s is much to explore on land as well!
Discover the Tangkoko Jungle, home to fascinating wildlife like the rare Black Macaque, vibrant Hornbill birds, and the world’s smallest primate, the enchanting Tarsius Monkey.
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
Take a day trip to the Minahasa Highlands to witness active volcanoes, soothing hot springs, bustling local markets, intricate handicrafts, and breathtaking landscapes.
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And for thrill-seekers, we offer exciting options like white-water rafting, perfect for those craving an extra dose of adventure!
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We hope this newsletter has provided you with a glimpse into what we have to offer. However, it’s just the beginning—there’s so much more waiting for you!
We offer an incredible combination trip with
Black Sand Dive Retreat in Lembeh
We also offer our
Uncover North Sulawsi program with Pulisan Beach Resort
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com / Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974 / Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
GETTING HERE
The easiest way to reach Manado is by flying with Singapore Airlines via Singapore. There are four direct flights each week, taking just three hours to get to Manado, with departures on Monday, Wednesday, Friday, and Saturday.
BOOK NOW!
Email: info@lumbalumbaresort.com
Call: +62 (0) 812 430 2974
Web: www.lumbalumbaresort.com
Facebook: www.facebook.com/lumbalumba.resort.manado
Instagram: www.instagram.com/lumbalumba.resort.manado/
Stay safe and healthy and we look forward to meet you in Manado soon!
Best wishes,
Juud, Roel and the whole Lumbalumba Team
Looking for the ultimate destination in 2025? Malta and Gozo are two Mediterranean islands that captivate adventurers with their stunning dive sites, rich cultural heritage, and warm hospitality. Known for crystal-clear waters, beautiful underwater landscapes, and a welcoming culture, these islands are the perfect year-round destination for both divers and non-divers. From the seasoned diver to those new to the underwater world, Malta and Gozo offer something extraordinary, making them a must-visit for anyone ready to explore.
Diving in Malta & Gozo: A World-Class Experience
Repeatedly ranked among the top diving destinations globally, the Maltese Islands offer a diving experience like no other. With over 100 dive sites, a thriving underwater ecosystem, and unmatched visibility, these islands are a diver’s paradise.
Iconic Dive Sites and Wrecks
From beginners to expert divers, Malta and Gozo offer an array of dive sites that showcase the islands’ underwater wonders. Here are some highlights:
The Blue Hole in Gozo
A world-renowned dive site, this natural limestone formation is consistently ranked among the top diving destinations globally. Its dramatic underwater scenery makes it a must-visit for divers of all skill levels.
MV Karwela Wreck
A popular dive site off Gozo, this former passenger ferry lies at 40 meters and is decorated with various artifacts, making it ideal for underwater photography.
HMS Maori
Located off the coast of Valletta, this historic WWII wreck rests in shallow waters at around 14 meters, making it accessible for beginners and full of history for all.
Um El Faroud Wreck
This large Libyan oil tanker, intentionally sunk off Malta’s coast, sits at depths between 15 and 36 meters, offering both challenging penetration dives and beautiful coral growth.
Rozi Tugboat
A picturesque wreck located off Cirkewwa, Malta, where divers can explore a former tugboat at a depth of 32 meters amidst stunning marine life.
P31 Patrol Boat Wreck
This shallow, 18-meter wreck near Comino is great for beginner divers and snorkelers, with abundant fish and clear views.
Santa Maria Caves
Also around Comino, these caves offer breathtaking underwater arches, tunnels, and swim-throughs ideal for intermediate divers.
Double Arch Reef
Located off Gozo, this unique double arch formation is a highlight for advanced divers, rich in marine biodiversity.
The Inland Sea Tunnel
A unique dive where divers pass through a tunnel from an inland sea into the open Mediterranean, experiencing dramatic shifts in light and colour.
Crystal-Clear Waters and Ideal Conditions
The Mediterranean waters surrounding Malta, Gozo, and Comino are famous for their clarity, warmth, and deep azure color, offering visibility of up to 30 meters (100 feet). The archipelago’s ideal diving conditions include over 300 days of sunshine, making it possible to dive year-round. Whether it’s winter or summer, the water temperatures stay comfortably warm, making it one of the few diving destinations in the world with such consistently favourable conditions.
Diverse Diving Programs for All Levels
For those who haven’t yet experienced scuba diving, Malta offers the perfect introduction. With over 50 dive centers across the islands, divers can easily find a certified instructor, and English being an official language ensures smooth communication. For beginners, there are introductory ‘try dives’ and certified courses available, while experienced divers can explore advanced trails and unique dive spots. Even children aged 10 and up can earn their PADI certification, making it a family-friendly diving destination.
Adventure Awaits: Activities for Non-Divers
While Malta and Gozo are a diver’s dream, they also offer an impressive range of activities for non-divers. The pristine Mediterranean Sea, with its inviting coves and scenic coastlines, is ideal for a host of water sports and other outdoor activities:
Snorkeling and Swimming
For a glimpse of Malta’s underwater beauty without the dive gear, snorkeling and swimming are popular ways to enjoy the marine life just below the surface.
Kayaking and Windsurfing
Embrace the island breeze with kayaking and windsurfing—an ideal way to explore the coastline from a new perspective.
Deep-Sea Fishing and Boat Exploration
Discover hidden coves and tranquil bays by boat or experience the thrill of deep-sea fishing with a local guide.
Land Adventures
Beyond water activities, the unique topography of Malta and Gozo makes them perfect for hiking, mountain biking, rock climbing, trail running, and jeep safaris. Whether exploring by foot or vehicle, the stunning views of the Mediterranean are always in sight.
Malta and Gozo’s Cultural Riches: More than Just Diving
Alongside diving, Malta and Gozo offer a wealth of cultural and historical experiences, showcasing their rich history and vibrant Mediterranean lifestyle. Here are some highlights to inspire you to stay longer and fully experience what these islands have to offer.
Valletta: A UNESCO World Heritage Site
The historic city of Valletta, Malta’s capital, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a blend of grand baroque architecture, fortresses, and ornate churches. As you wander the streets of Valletta, explore its many landmarks, including the awe-inspiring St. John’s Co-Cathedral, a baroque masterpiece, and the Grand Harbour, with its scenic views and vibrant energy.
Discover the Megalithic Temples and Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum
Malta is home to three UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including the megalithic temples, some of the world’s oldest freestanding structures, and the Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum, an ancient underground necropolis. These sites offer a glimpse into a world thousands of years old, reflecting the deep historical roots of the Maltese islands.
Culinary Delights and Warm Hospitality
Malta and Gozo are also celebrated for their cuisine, a delightful fusion of Mediterranean flavors with Italian, North African, and Middle Eastern influences. From fresh seafood to locally produced wines, visitors are welcomed with warm hospitality and an invitation to savor authentic flavors. The islands’ dining scene spans everything from rustic village eateries to sophisticated gourmet restaurants, ensuring that every meal is memorable.
Festivals, Friendly Locals, and LGBTQ+ Friendly
The Maltese are known for their friendly and welcoming nature, making travellers feel at home. With various cultural festivals, local feasts, and LGBTQ+ friendly spaces, Malta and Gozo truly cater to all travellers.
Why Choose Malta and Gozo in 2025?
Malta and Gozo offer the ultimate dive vacation experience, easily accessible from the UK with a short, three-hour flight. The islands boast year-round warm weather, over 300 days of sunshine, and a wide variety of accommodations that cater to every budget, from luxurious resorts and boutique hotels to charming farmhouses.
Key Reasons to Visit Malta and Gozo in 2025:
Year-Round Warm Weather
Perfect diving and sightseeing conditions await you at any time of the year.
Quick and Easy Access
Only three hours from the UK, making it an ideal short-haul destination.
Diverse Activities and Accommodations
From shore dives and boat dives to cultural and soft adventure activities, Malta and Gozo have something for everyone.
Stunning Historical Sites
With three UNESCO World Heritage Sites and countless historical landmarks, there’s much more to explore beyond the shorelines.
Alluring Culinary Experiences
Sample the vibrant flavours of the Mediterranean while enjoying the warm hospitality of the Maltese people.
Dive Into Malta and Gozo in 2025!
With so much to offer, the Maltese Islands are an exceptional destination for diving and beyond. Discover spectacular reefs, mysterious wrecks, vibrant local culture, and the natural beauty of Malta and Gozo in 2025. Whether it’s the thrill of an underwater adventure, the charm of ancient streets, or the flavors of Mediterranean cuisine, Malta and Gozo promise an unforgettable experience that will keep you coming back year after year.
Book your adventure today and explore more than you ever thought possible in Malta and Gozo!
Book a great value Economy plus fare with British Airways, and benefit from 1 piece of checked luggage per passenger up to 23kg.
Find cheapest fares to Malta – British Airways
You can take most items as part of your checked baggage allowance if it’s packed in a recognised kit bag and doesn’t exceed the maximum size and weight for checked baggage.
Find out more about travelling on British Airways flights and carrying your sports equipment here:
Flying with sports equipment | Information | British Airways
Find out more about diving in Malta and Gozo at www.visitmalta.com/en/diving-in-malta.
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