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Jim & Cary Yanny’s Guide to Diving in Indonesia

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Raja Ampat

Part 4: Raja Ampat

Define luxury. Most people would probably say that the word “comfortable” should be included in any sensible definition, but also that it must include being surrounded by plush, expensive items and that the more unaffordable those items are, the more luxurious the experience.

I beg to differ. I know where luxury resides and I can tell you that it’s not where you think is it. Don’t search for it in New York, London, Paris or Milan. No, where I’ve found it, there’s a complete lack of emblems, brands or fancy cars…..or cars of any sort, for that matter. There is a bit of native “bling” in this place, mind you, but even that is not of the type we’ve come to expect, being made mostly of colourful exotic bird feathers.

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In this modern age, seven billion noisy souls’ lives are increasingly busy; work is dictated by ever-shortening deadlines, and connectivity is everything. Within this context, the value of material items has reduced a lot and new definitions are starting to replace them. Resources like “space”, “time”, and “peace” are becoming less abundant and therefore much more valuable. In our crowded world, they are the new luxury items of the 21st century.

coralThe lush Indonesian province of West Papua (or “Irian Jaya”, to use its traditional name) has been almost completely uncharted territory to anyone who isn’t a local or a working in mining, lumber or fishing. That fact remains unchanged for the vast majority of people on the planet; however, recently there has been a growing awareness of West Papua, and of the Raja Ampat area in particular, amongst a tiny group of people consisting mainly of marine biologists and dive tourists.

The first indications that Raja Ampat might be an exceptional place for divers came to us about twenty years ago, from a most unexpected source: a young motorbike workshop owner called Max Ammer. The Dutchman had been clued-up that he might be able to find bike and jeeps in mint condition, remnants of the waste of WW2, on these remote islands to refurbish in order to make his fortune. In 1990 Max headed to Papua looking for the bikes, but what he discovered there surprised him. It was indeed riches, but not exactly of the kind he been seeking – the riches Max found were of a natural kind and were like nothing he’d ever imagined: forest canopies bursting with parakeets and other exotic birds, in secret bays with crystal-clear pools.

Then Max started to snorkel off Kri Island’s white-sand beach. What he discovered there blew his mind and changed his life forever. He fell in love with the place and the people (literally, as he married an Indonesian lady) and quickly “recalibrated” his mind from that of a mechanic to one of a conservationist and eco-resort owner. To this day, Max remains on Kri Island, where he runs two resorts under the “Papua Diving” brand. During our twelve years of living in Indonesia we were lucky enough to spend a good deal of time at Max’s Kri Eco Resort & Sorido Bay Resort and we are privileged to be able to count Max amongst our friends.

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Raja Ampat was first put on scientists’ radar by the 1998 visit of a renowned Australian fish scientist, Dr Gerry Allen. After that short visit, Dr Allen lobbied Conservation International to conduct a fish survey, which he did with other scientists in 2001. Their findings was an astounding 970 species. On a later survey with his colleague Dr. Mark Erdmann, Dr. Allan counted 374 distinct species on just one 90-minute dive.

I wasn’t even aware that this picture will turn out so crowded when i took it. I was concentrating on the Moray eel, and the blue crack on the back ground. Viewing it later really hit me with the huge amount of fish!

This means that Raja Ampat, quite simply, is home to the richest reefs on Planet Earth. Just off the “Bird’s Head” of West Papua province of Indonesia, it lies in the heart of the Coral Triangle, an area of the western Pacific Ocean that includes the waters of Indonesia, Malaysia, the Philippines, Papua New Guinea, Timor Leste and Solomon Islands and recognised as the epi-centre of marine biodiversity on the planet. The name “Raja Ampat” means The Four Kings in Indonesian, referring to the largest four islands of Misool, Salawati, Batanta and Waigeo. A smaller island of Kofiau and another 1500 islands make up the group, spread over a huge area of 40,000 square kilometres. The population of all these islands of Raja Ampat is tiny – just 50,000.

Raja Ampat

Eco Kri resort of Papua Diving on Mansoear Island. Photo by Frits Meyst/Adventure4ever.com

Raja AmpatAllow me to offer you another definition of luxury: it’s “an exclusivity that makes one feel special and privileged”. If you ask me, being woken up by an “alarm clock” of fish splashing beneath one’s Papuan stilted hut is an especially luxurious way to start one’s day. Relaxing on the end of a jetty overlooking a calm sea and distant islands, waving to the passing fisherman in his canoe but seeing nobody other than him – that’s exclusive and special. Diving on a coral reef and looking up to a forest of trees just above it – that’s unique and special. Having the world’s richest reef as your nearest dive site – that’s very special.

Resorts in Raja Ampat don’t offer fine dining, they offer fine diving. They don’t offer infinity pools, but there’s an infinite sea. They don’t offer star-studded after-dinner shows, but look up into the black night sky, unpolluted by any city lights and you’ll witness a show of stars that beats anything man can hope to provide. Here is a more natural definition of luxury – it’s provided by Mother Nature herself…..and she’s laid it on in oodles. It’s a luxury defined by a knowledge that so few people ever get to experience this amazing frontier, one of the last pristine wildernesses to be found anywhere on earth. Here the only commuting crowds rushing by have gills, most of the schooling happens to be done underwater and the only call you’ll receive is from a Bird of Paradise flying high overhead.

By immersing oneself in Raja Ampat’s simple yet luxurious nature, something interesting soon becomes clear: that with so many creatures all around us, we’re not missing our creature comforts.

For more information, visit www.diversetravel.co.uk/destinations/Indonesia.

A few moons ago, Jim was General Manager of Emperor Divers Red Sea, where Cary was Senior Instructor. Later they moved to Indonesia to establish and run award-winning dive centre and resort, Eco Divers, before returning to the UK to launch Diverse Travel. Cary also runs a photographic business and is the Photo Pro, often leading photographic trips to exotic destinations, most recently to South Africa and Mozambique. Jim and Cary’s driving passion is to deliver the best personalised travel service available. That same philosophy shines through Diverse Travel and sees clients return again and again to book their next holiday.

Marine Life & Conservation

Shark Trust launches Oceanic 31 Shark Art Auction

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After a two-year tour of UK art galleries, community spaces and aquariums, the Shark Trust’s acclaimed Oceanic31 exhibition takes its final bow at the Royal Geographical Society later this month. And the unique collection of artwork, depicting 31 species of oceanic sharks and rays, donated by 31 artists, is now open for bids from art lovers and shark enthusiasts. The online auction, launched today, will close on the 7th December at 8pm (BST). The money raised will support the Shark Trust Oceanics Programme.

People can now bid on 27 of the artworks by visiting this website:

https://superstars-auctions.com/sharktrustauction

It is a chance to own a beautiful piece of original art and to support the Shark Trust. The timing of the auction also means that these would make a very special Christmas gift for any shark-lover.

The diversity of pieces mirrors that of the sharks and rays they represent. You can bid on paintings, digital creations, sculptures, mixed media and more. You can pick your favourite artist or species of shark. Or you can select the perfect artwork to make a statement in your home or office. Whichever you choose, you will be supporting the work to protect these amazing animals.

One of the pieces of art has been selected to be auctioned live by Steve Backshall at the For the Love of Sharks event at the Royal Geographical Society in London on the 29th November. In addition to this, two further pieces will be raffled at this event, giving people a chance to win an incredible piece of shark art. For the Love of Sharks is the Shark Trust’s flagship evening. A night to celebrate sharks. Steve Backshall is the headline speaker at this event that will see other prominent shark advocates join him on stage.

Tickets for the event can be snapped up here:

https://thesharktrust.org.uk/Event/flos24

Those that would like to see the Oceanic 31 exhibition have one final chance. It is being displayed at the Pavilion at the Royal Geographic Society from 26th November until the 7th December. Entry is free.

Find out more here:

https://www.rgs.org/events/upcoming-events/oceanic-31

 Paul Cox, Shark Trust CEO, Said “This exhibition has given us the opportunity to reach out to a new audience. And inspire more people with the wonderful sharks and rays on which our Big Shark Pledge campaign is based. We are immensely grateful to the 31 artists who have worked so hard to create these works.”

Bid for your favourite Oceanic 31 artwork here:
https://superstars-auctions.com/sharktrustauction


Banner Image: Smooth Hammerhead by Alicia Hayden

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Gear News

Introducing the RS Series Drysuit from DYNAMICNORD

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drysuit

Cozy and warm in cold water.

It’s drysuit season all year round. With the new RS series premium drysuits from DYNAMICNORD, divers are perfectly equipped for all cold waters.

The sophisticated cut of the RS drysuits allows complete freedom of movement, providing maximum comfort. The high-quality 350 g/m² ripstop material with double ripstop zones on the elbows, knees, and crotch protect ensures extreme robustness as well as long life.

drysuit drysuit

The suit’s features leave nothing to be desired: A high-quality TiZip zipper, easily adjustable inlet and outlet valves, upgradeable with electrically heated underwear, HP bottleneck cuffs made of high-strength latex on the wrists, a 3mm neoprene neck cuff for maximum comfort, a 7mm hood with air outlet and 3mm boots made of double-sided, cross-layered neoprene with ankle straps and fin strap stoppers and a protective but very flexible sole.

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Noteworthy is the Molle fastening system, which can be used in a variable and compatible manner. This way, the two detachable leg pockets can be attached easily, safely and comfortably.

Alterations of boots to a different shoe size or adjustments to neck or wrist cuffs are done free of charge at the own DYNAMICNORD service centre in Germany in only a couple of days.

The matching Dynaskins made with high-quality Polartec® technology are available in various designs. As an undersuit under the drysuit, as a single suit in warm waters or as a two-piece suit. Polartec® technology’s main features are neutral buoyancy, breathablilty and quick-drying.

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Dynaskins are made largely from recycled plastic bottles.

The drysuit RS-351 for men and RS-352 for women are now available at your DYNAMICNORD dealer and in the online store.

Colors men and women: Black-Blue and Black-Burgundy

Sizes men: XS-4XL incl. intermediate sizes MS, MT, MLS, MLT, LS, LT, XLS, XLT, 2XLS, 3XLS, 4XLS

Sizes Women: XS-XL incl. intermediate sizes MS, MT, LS, XLS

DYNAMICNORD – Your Outdoor Companion.

www.dynamicnord.com

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