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Galapagos – Where the big things are

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Unlike Max I hadn’t worn my wolf suit, or made mischief of one kind or another. I hadn’t been sent to my bedroom for it to transform into an island of magical monsters, only reachable after a year of sailing.  I wouldn’t want to spend that long on a boat, so I behaved(ish) and looked into going to the Galapagos and spending my nights tucked up on dry land.

Simon’s left arm shot out, index finger extended, and he clenched his right fist and stuck it on the side of his head. I scanned left and right fast, peering through my mask into the milky blue water. “Where?! Where?!” my brain implored. “There!!!” my eyes answered. “At last” I smiled to myself with relief, bringing by camera up to eye level as the school of scalloped hammerheads cruised past 10 metres away, swaying over the sandy bottom of the underwater caldera in the middle of the site called Gordon Rocks. I now knew that Gordon certainly did, providing me, and many other divers over the years, with their first sightings of this oddly but brilliantly-shaped fish.

In the past I’d searched for hammerheads in the Red Sea and in South Africa on five blue dives with a solitary, faint blur my sole reward, and coming to the Galapagos they were on the top of my fish wish list. They are one of the emblematic Galapagan species after all; the t-shirt shops of Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz, the most-inhabited island of the archipelago, were draped in them, and along with the giant tortoise formed the logo of the Galapagos National Park. Yet I had been on the islands for a week, investigating land-based diving and nature tours with Red Mangrove’s suite of luxury lodges, and tacky miniatures and gaudy prints were all I’d seen. In terms of diving, the best had definitely been saved till last.

Not that the rest of the diving had been poor, we’d just been a bit unlucky. Gordon Rocks is normally the first or second diving destination from Santa Cruz island on Red Mangrove’s land-based island-hopping diving itinerary, but due to a last-minute flight cancellation, my partner and I missed Gordon Rocks on what should have been our first day of an eight-day tour whilst we occupied ourselves in Guayaquil on the mainland for an extra twenty four hours. Still, we had planned to have plenty of days “spare” on Santa Cruz looking at diving from Puerto Ayora, so we arranged to catch up at the end.

I also thought that I was on a bit of a lucky streak; I was randomly upgraded to first class on the flight to Guayaquil to meet up with Imi, and we were both upgraded for the two-hour A320 Tamé flight to Isla Baltra. Being greeted with cool water and chilled face towels by our escort enhanced the good vibe, as did the friendly banter with our guide on the 200-metre ferry ride and 42-kilometre drive across Santa Cruz island. By the time we had checked into our funky room metres from Puerto Ayora’s gently lapping bay, seen marine iguanas basking on the restaurant deck, snapped a sea lion snoozing in the shade on a coffee table, and eaten some tender calamari and chicken with perfectly steamed veg, we were naturally feeling pretty positive.

A post lunch-trip to snorkel with some sea lions resulting in a couple of half-decent pics, a boat ride to the white sands of Tortuga Bay and a guided nature walk to see the marine iguanas, Sally Lightfoot crabs, and large cacti growing from volcanic rock did nothing to dampen the feeling that everything would just fall perfectly into place, the late flight cancellation and re-jigged schedule a minor blip. After a brief meeting with our dive guide for the following day and a candlelit dinner, I was rocked to sleep by the wash of the ocean, dreaming about big fish with funny heads.

On the boat ride out to Sante Fé island the next morning, having left the busy cargo ships, numerous moored liveaboards and plentiful small craft behind, we were regaled with the previous day’s missed sightings of a manta, eagle rays, stingrays, whitetip reef sharks, and of course hammerheads. A reef manta (Manta alfredi) breached to the side of the boat, as if to say “come on, jump in, we’re waiting for you”.

Except they weren’t. Nature, of course, works to its own schedule. There was a six-metre cave swim-through, a group of silvery grunts, and a school of barracuda in the distance. “Never mind” I thought, “it was fine for a return to the water” but I was a little disappointed. I had been expecting the 10 -15 metre viz and the rocky underwater landscapes. Although the Galapagos are in the Pacific and on the equator, the water temperature drops to the low 20s, too cold for much coral growth, due to the passing Humboldt current coming up from the south. But I had also been expecting more action.

It is also about expectations – maybe I’d misread the hype – I had been expecting big stuff: sharks, big schools of fish and classrooms of rays, turtles, sea lions and marine iguanas. The two fellas from Quito doing DSDs and their two OW buddies naturally thought the whole experience had been grand. During the surface interval we motored back towards Puerto Ayora and descended upon a shallow site called La Loberia (lobo del mar being a sea lion in Spanish). The viz was at most 10 metres and full of fish poo, but we soon saw why we were here.

Two sea lions dived down from the surface, spinning and turning with incredible agility, zipping around us like underwater break-dancers as we approached a dark shadow in front of us. The other divers were ahead and, as I turned to take a snap, went in and disappeared. As I approached I saw that it was in fact a huge school of the endemic black-striped salema (Xenocys jessiae). Where were the others? I moved forward. The fish parted a little, but stayed inches from me. I went in some more and it got dark. I looked around and saw that they had surrounded me, I was engulfed in a giant amorphous blob of fish. I could hear the DM rattling his shaker, trying to guide me on. I tapped back on by strobe arm. I swam on and we met up, four divers in a zillion sardine-sized fish. Incredible. When we emerged back into daylight, more sea lions came to play briefly, then sped off, no doubt to get a stripy snack.

In the afternoon we were escorted to a small cruiser and sped off towards Isla Isabela, the largest of the four inhabited islands. As the cabin looked pretty full with 16 passengers we asked to sit on the flybridge with some cargo. We chatted to the skipper in dodgy Spanish as he opened the twin 300 HP four-strokes up for the two-hour crossing.

Approaching Puerto Vilamil we slowed to little more than an idle as the skipper skirted around the inside of the bay formed in the lava rocks. The contrast with Puerto Ayora was considerable; with little more than 3000 inhabitants, our home for the next four days was sleepy and quiet under the afternoon sun, our small boat the largest in the port. As soon as our feet hit the wooden pontoon of the port we were guided to a “panga”, a narrow speedboat, and taken for a snorkel in the shallow lagoon. The tide was going out, lifting up the sandy bottom, but not enough to obscure a spotted eagle ray and a small whitetip reef shark. I thought the tide of my luck was swinging back the other way.

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Over a gourmet dinner, our dive guide for the morrow, Paco, seemed to think so. “95% chance of hammerheads at Isla Tortuga” he stated confidently before drawing a map of the dive site. It would be a fast drift dive around the outside edge of a crescent-shaped island that was once a volcano, with a few interludes hiding behind outcrops of cooled lava to hopefully watch the hammers go by and break my duck. Of course you know that I didn’t. We were accompanied by a huge school of Galapagos barracuda most of the first dive (good food for sharks), there were plenty of King Angelfish (who are partial to cleaning sharks), eagle rays and stingrays on the second dive (more shark food), four green turtles, and three schools of razor surgeonfish. The current was fun, and the diving was good, despite mediocre viz, and back in the aquamarine bay we saw more turtles and stingrays, and the world’s smallest and only tropical penguin; the cute Galapagos penguin.

After a dry day spent walking up Sierra Negra, the world’s largest active volcano crater, spanning an impressive 11 kilometres from side to side, we set off along the coast for Los Tuneles. As we bombed along we passed more than twenty turtles and five mantas on the 30-minute ride. Skipper Julio displayed admirable skill to get us through some rough surf before threading us through the treacherous lava rock formations to an astonishing haven. Los Tuneles is a maze of arches formed by lava tunnels in some of the most beautiful water I have seen. There were turtles galore to snorkel with, as well as juvenile eagle rays, stingrays, and the odd barracuda. By the time we were done we estimated that we had seen at least 50 turtles either from the boat or in the water.

Julio’s prowess wasn’t limited to tricky boat manoeuvres either. At Elfinado he donned mask and fins and found two arches occupied by close to a dozen whitetips, and then led us to the mangroves to show us his secret seahorse. Tail wrapped around a branch, with the sunlight filtering through the film-covered surface the view was ethereal. Just below a turtle snoozed, half-under a ledge on a bed of leaves in an almost autumnal composition. To cap a great day, he pointed us to narrow, shallow channel close to the port and told us to snorkel carefully along the top. The incoming tide made the water murky, but a couple of metres below us we made out first one, then two, then another now-familiar whitetip. As we pulled ourselves along the sides of the 100-metre long one-metre wide channel, we could see that the bottom was carpeted with them. My notes say “Photography value zero, thrill value high”. On a slack tide with some viz, it would have been amazing.

After a fun 90-minute flight on a 10-seater Norman Britten Islander to San Cristobal island we dropped our bags off and were whisked off on a short walk up to a water-filled crater to learn more about frigate birds and down to another beach popular with sea lions, before sorting out our gear at the dive centre for the next day’s diving with DM Jimbo.  Over dinner he told us about Kicker Rock (a.k.a. El Leon Endormido), talking up our chances of seeing hammerheads and the endemic Galapagos shark.

As Imi had decided to put on some additional neoprene, we stopped at Isla Lobos for a quick check dive. While we suited up, a rather cheeky sea lion hopped onto the boat and started checking out my gear for me and followed us into the water for a quick play around on the sandy bottom of the bay.

Alongside the lion-shaped rock, we rolled in and entered the channel formed by a 20-metre gap towards its western tip. Sheltered from the sun’s rays, the sea was grey as we hovered above the sandy peering ahead. A couple of stingrays were resting on the bottom and a third flitted past. We lay in the sand and waited and shortly three Galapagos sharks swam through the 25-metre deep channel.  A first for me; they are quite small but beautifully-shaped creatures, and move with their natural predatory grace.  I couldn’t help wondering whether they would be followed by hammerheads.  A couple more swam by, followed by a couple of blacktips. “Martillo, martillo, aqui martillo” I sang in my head, but none came. The vertical wall along the outside flank of the rock was madly mottled with blue and orange sponges, pencil urchins resting wherever they found a nook, often with a small hawkfish or the stunning blue and red of the endemic whitetailed damselfish juvenile. The sea was full of fish with king angelfish and in abundance, streamer hogfish and gringos (creole fish). We returned to the wall for a second diving, after going to the far tip looking for hammerheads (obsessed, me?) in the current, and were rewarded with more fish soup and five green turtles no less. Despite being hammerless that morning, the Sleeping Lion was certainly awake underwater.

After lunch back in the sheltered waters of Isla Lobos, Jimbo took us for a snorkel along the rocky edge to look for marine iguanas. We weren’t disappointed, as well as more damsels and razor surgeonfish, we quickly found an iguana trying to escape the playful attentions of a sea lion that was pulling its tail in a slapstick wrestling contest. Once that act was over, a pair of sea lions popped up, darting and whirling in random directions like a firework display run by delinquent kids. As the finale, yet another smooth, brown underwater puppy whizzed into view, a black object with a shiny end in its mouth. Like a Covent Garden juggler it tossed it up, watched it sink a few metres, flitted down to catch it, before doing it again. But what was it juggling?  After a few minutes our entertainer swam right up to my lens, looked at me, and placed the object on the sand below me before swimming off. I dived down and picked up an immaculate, but batteryless, 120-dollar dive torch.  Amazing. Was this the same curious and cheeky chappy from this morning who had borrowed a toy from another diver?

That wasn’t the end to the day though. No sooner back on shore, we were greeted by our guide who took us to the island’s visitor centre and up to frigate bird hill for more great views and wildlife info before a quick dinner with our host Daniella and a deep sleep. San Cristobal had been pretty action-packed, so they next day we chilled out firstly on the boat transfer back to Puerto Ayora on Santa Cruz, and then walking around the Charles Darwin Research Station, attempting to slow down to the same pace as the old giant tortoises, the most well-known of them being the century-old Lonesome George, the last survivor of a species decimated by human activity.

And so we were finally doing day one on day eight, about to roll into the small volcanic crater that makes up Gordon Rocks. The overcast day and choppy seas did nothing to make me think that I’d come away with much.  How wrong I was. More than a dozen hammerheads cruised past just above the sandy crater bottom as soon as we had descended the 28-odd metres to get there. BINGO! As we did a circuit around the inside (and through some crazy thermoclines that went from 21 to 17 degrees C) there were swimming whitetip reef sharks, turtles, and large schools of king angelfish and razor surgeonfish again, basslets and butterflyfish, all good cleaner fish for large species.

 

Gordon Rocks really did rock.  It was a fitting finale to a most excellent first week as we moved into budget accommodation in the centre of town, a street back from the sea, for the final six days.

For 35 dollars a night we found a double with air-con of sorts (it was either on freezing or warm), private bathroom, and breakfast. There are plenty of restaurants serving main courses from $8, small stores sell fruits and snacks, there is a small supermarket down by the port, and lunch is provided on dive boats.

The following day we returned to Gordon Rocks and saw more hammerheads, whitetips, friendly turtles, and even a sea lion. The vertical currents and surge can definitely be quite a challenge for inexperienced divers, and the cold currents can be core-chilling. It’s quite common for divers to come up after 30 minutes as the combination of the above and going down to 30 metres sucks up their air. One fellow diver, an out of practice yet ex-commercial diver with 2000+ dives, was done in 19 minutes. For those who can hang around and check out the outside walls, the rewards are excellent though. Although my camera had already fogged up, I got to marvel at a huge, slow-moving school of countless one-metre-long snapper at 10 metres and then a wahoo as we surfaced, and on another safety stop saw over a hundred golden cow rays cruise past. They also put in a brief appearance on another visit to Santa Fe, as did a massive school of pompano that encircled us in a silvery fishy cylinder, and yet more Galapagos barracuda.

We also went to North Seymour with Galapagos Sub-Aqua, found more stingrays, marbled rays, eagle rays, a manta silhouetted above us in the gloom, and several pairs of whitetips resting under overhangs, the dives culminating in some exciting fast drifts over shallow water on the safety stops.

Whenever I think about Gordon Rocks my mouth curls into a smile. It epitomises the Galapagos for me. Even on a gloomy day it reflects the unique and enchanting nature of the archipelago’s diverse nature, its strong currents symbolising the challenges ahead, and its diverse life reminders of what we have to lose.

Travel info:

We were superbly hosted by Red Mangrove for our first week – see: http://www.redmangrove.com who have a range of off-the-shelf itineraries, and who also do tailor-made trips and can cater for a mixed group of divers and non-divers.

Indigo Safaris looked after our travel arrangements at no extra cost and they also work with a range of liveaboard dive vessels. info@indigosafaris.com, www.indigosafaris.com

Other places to stay:

Mid range:

La Casa Del Lago doubles at $90 who also make great breakfasts for $5.50, fruit salad, fresh juices, wholemeal bread, vegetarian omelets and Ecuadorian coffee. casadellago@galapagoscultural.com
Budget:
Hotel Espana on Santa Cruz

Doubles at $35, wi-fi, breakfast $4.00, hammocks in nice communal area. e-mail: hotelsgalapagos@yahoo.es
Casa Rosada  on Isabela on the beachfront – doubles $20 to $40 claudiahodari@gmail.com

Volcano Hotel on Isabela opposite the beach – doubles $40 volcanohotelisa@hotmail.com

 

Places to eat in Puerto Ayora:

La Garrapata: fish $7.80, starters $4.00, desserts from $3.40, real coffee, plus taxes

Café del Mar: grilled fish and plantain $8.00 plus taxes

El Jardin/The Garden: try the fish of the day and they sell great ice cream too.

K.T. Williams: this is where the locals go – fish in coconut sauce with rice $5, Calle Charles Binford. Calle Charles Binford is closed to vehicles at night as local restaurants put out tables and chairs.

We dived with Red Mangrove on Santa Cruz, Isabela, and San Cristobal and Galapagos Sub-Aqua on Santa Cruz.

 

Getting there:

Daily flights to Baltra (ostensibly Santa Cruz island) and San Cristobal from Quito and Guayaquil. Flights from Guayaquil are a little cheaper and Guayaquil is at sea level rather than over 4000 metres above at Quito. Return flights start at $492 in low season for Guayaquil – Baltra return and go up to $586 for Quito- Baltra returns in high season.

An experienced professional photojournalist, Christopher started taking underwater photos with a second-hand 2 megapixel Canon in 2005. Since then his work has been published across the globe in publications such as Scuba Diving, Sunday Times Travel Magazine, X-Ray, Diver Divestyle, FHM, and many more. He is the water correspondent for www.ecology.com. He has also shot pictures for brochures and promotional material for clients in the Red Sea, the Caribbean, Eastern and Southern Africa, Australasia, and the Galapagos and has had exhibitions of his work in the UK and France. Several times a year he leads photographic safaris to Africa, and runs underwater workshops in Zanzibar, Egypt, and Papua New Guinea. www.bartlettimages.com

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20 Years of Magic Moments: Celebrating the 20-Year Anniversary of Magic Resorts

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Exciting news is on the horizon at the beloved dive resorts, Magic Resorts Philippines!

On January 2nd 2005, the journey of Magic Resorts began, when Magic Island opened its doors as one of the first dedicated dive resorts in Moalboal, Cebu. Now, as we look forward to 2025, a significant milestone is on the horizon: Magic Island’s 20th anniversary!

In preparation for this momentous occasion, the resort has recently upgraded their facilities, including renovated bathrooms, ensuring a fresh and modern experience for their guests. The stage is set for a fantastic celebration!

To cherish and celebrate two decades of incredible diving experiences, Magic Resorts will be offering a special 20% anniversary discount to all guests celebrating with them at either Magic Island or its larger sister resort, Magic Oceans in Anda, Bohol, throughout the entire year of 2025!*

NOT CONVINCED YET?

To kick off the anniversary celebration, here are 20 reasons to book your holiday at Magic Island in 2025!

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1) 20-year anniversary!

Of course the anniversary is the perfect occasion to stay at Magic Island and the anniversary special offers you to enjoy a stay with 20% discount! Whether you’re a seasoned diver, new to scuba, a past guest, or a new to Magic’s concept, this is an excellent opportunity to experience the magic of Magic Island Dive Resort.

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2) Amazing marine life

Moalboal has been a top dive destination in the Philippines for decades, and for a good reason. This laid-back town at the Westcoast of Cebu offers unforgettable experiences for divers and non-divers alike. Located in the Coral Triangle, Moalboal boasts hundreds of coral species and unique critters, but also features unique sights that make it a standout dive destination not just in the Philippines, but globally!

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3) Enjoy newly renovated bathrooms first-hand!

In preparation for the 20-year anniversary, Magic Island renovated all bathrooms of the bungalows last August 2024! The new, spacious and modernized bathrooms offer the best comfort during your stay. As a visitor in 2025, you’ll be among the first to enjoy these upgraded amenities with a perfect view.

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4) Dive with Whale Sharks the whole year around

Magic Island offers the possibility to dive with Whale Sharks throughout the entire year!
Unlike many other accommodations that only offer snorkeling with the Whale Sharks, Magic Island is accredited to dive with them with their own dive masters, tanks and crew.

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5) Easily accessible house reef

Magic Island’s house reef is open 24/7 and easily accessible within only a few steps from the dive center. You are welcome to make an unguided house reef dive any time of day with your buddy. The house reef starts with a sloping area where you can find the resident sea horse and blue ringed octopus among other life, whereafter you’ll reach the amazing wall where you’ll find turtles, nudibranchs and much more!

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6) Native-style bungalows with Western features

The modernized bathrooms are a great Western feature in the native looking style bungalows. While the bungalows have their Filipino native style look, with Nipa rooftops, bamboo balconies and panels of Amakan (woven split-bamboo), they have Western amenities such as air conditioning and a minibar.

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7) Dive the Sardine Ball the whole year around

One of the reasons why Moalboal became famous for divers in the first place: you can dive the Sardine Run the whole year around! It’s not a seasonal sighting like other places and therefore a very special phenomenon (even for marine biologists). You can dive with over a million sardines while staying at Magic Island every day of the year!

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8) Unparalleled service

The excellent staff of Magic Island ensures you have the best time possible. The team members have been part of the Magic journey for many years – some even from day one! The outstanding Philippine hospitality combined with their experience are the perfect ingredients for exceptional service. They’ll remember your name and do whatever they can to make you feel at home from day one.

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9) Fully equipped dive center on site

Magic Island Dive Resort has its own fully equipped PADI dive center right on site. The dive center is equipped with 3 compressors (providing nitrox as well), 3 Bangka boats, full sets of rental gear, aluminium tanks with Int. & DIN connection, and an in-house instructor to name a few. Walk down to the dive center in less than a minute after your meal in the restaurant and get ready for diving!

10) Mating Mandarin fish on the house reef every day!

The real signature dive at Magic Island is without a doubt the Mandarin dive. Just a short swim from the dive center leads you to an underwater spectacle that’s nothing short of magical. Every day during sunset, the Mandarin fish emerge from their coral hideaways for their mating ritual. These colourful and beautifully patterned fish are a species of the Dragonet that are rarely seen outside their coral homes except during this special time. A great sighting just in Magic Islands’ backyard and a great challenge for photographers!

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11) Beyond regular night dives

In addition to standard night dives, Magic Island elevates the experience with unique offerings like Fluoro dives and bonfire dives, providing a completely different dimension. If conditions permit, you can also embark on black water dives, where you’ll encounter the mysterious and seldom-seen creatures that emerge during night time.

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12) Go down with a local expert!

The dive team of Magic Island make your underwater adventures hassle-free and fun.
You don’t have to carry your tanks or set up your gear, they will take care of that for you. The team of trained PADI Dive masters is local and know the area better than anyone. With their experience, incredible eye for detail and sense of humour, you will have the best dive experience!

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13) More than 30 dive sites in less than a 25-minute boat ride

On one of the traditionally Bangka boats, Magic Island takes you out diving around the whole peninsula of Moalboal. 30 different dive sites are waiting for you to explore, all within only a 25-minute. Moalboal’s highlight, Pescador Island, is only 10 minutes away!

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14) Freshly prepared meals in family-dinner style

The dining area at Magic Island fosters a sense of community with interconnected tables that encourage socializing. Enjoy a diverse selection of freshly prepared local and Western dishes while watching the chefs at work in the open kitchen. Dietary restrictions? Just let them know, and they’ll accommodate your needs with care.

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15) Wet adventures above the surface!

Aside from diving, Magic Island offers great daytrips to explore the culture and nature of Cebu Island. One of the absolute highlights is a trip to the Kawasan Waterfalls, where you can choose between a relaxing visit to enjoy the fresh water and stunning views, or an adventurous canyoneering experience with hiking, climbing, jumping, gliding, and swimming.

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16) Experience Moalboal in peace

While Moalboal is a popular destination, Magic Island provides a serene escape from the hustle and bustle. Tucked away from busy areas, the resort creates a tranquil oasis where you can relax while still being close to Moalboal’s vibrant life.

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17) Suitable for each kind of diver

With just 10 bungalows, Magic Island offers a cozy and intimate setting for all types of travelers — whether you’re in a group, a couple, or traveling solo. The rich marine life and accessible diving conditions make it an ideal destination for divers of all experience levels.

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18) Unique signature drinks!

The homely bar at Magic Island offers a range of beverages to enjoy while taking in breathtaking ocean views. Don’t miss the signature drinks made with Ube Cream, a local liqueur that won the World’s Best Cream Liqueur title at the 2022 World Liqueur Awards. Experience the true Filipino fiesta spirit with this exceptional drink.

19) Combine with Magic Oceans 

You can extend your wonderful stay at Magic Island elsewhere! Magic Islands newer and bigger sister Magic Oceans in Anda, Bohol opened its doors in 2015, offering you the possibility to get the maximum out of your magical dive trip by combining the two locations. The same ambience, quality of serviced and most importantly: an amazing diving experience!

20) Just because you’ll have a great time!

The reasons to visit Magic Island in 2025 are endless, but the most important one is that you’re guaranteed to have a fantastic time. With exceptional service, friendly and experienced staff, an ideal location, and outstanding diving, Magic Island promises an unforgettable experience.

CONTACT MAGIC RESORTS FOR YOUR QUOTE ON AN UNPARALLELED DIVING HOLIDAY!

Email: reservations@magicresorts.online
Website: www.magicresorts.online
Facebook: www.facebook.com/magicisland.diveresort
Instagram: www.instagram.com/magic_island_dive_resort

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Dive into Gibraltar: a Journey of Wrecks, Wildlife and Conservation

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diving gibraltar

Diving in Gibraltar is an experience that truly sets itself apart. Situated at the confluence of the Atlantic and Mediterranean, it offers an underwater world rich in both marine life and history. Whether you’re a complete novice or a seasoned diver, Gibraltar is ready to take you on an unforgettable journey beneath the waves.

One of the most remarkable aspects of diving in Gibraltar is the artificial reef project. Over the years, several ships have been deliberately sunk to create vibrant underwater habitats. Among the most popular sites are the Spanish Barges, 482M, and Batty’s Barge, all located in the local favourite, Camp Bay. The Spanish Barges are a series of four wrecks, two of which were sunk as part of Gibraltar’s artificial reef programme in the 1980s. They rest at varying depths, ranging from 7 to 22 metres, making them accessible for divers of all skill levels. These wrecks, now teeming with marine life such as octopuses, conger eels, and nudibranchs, offer something for every diver, whether they enjoy swimming through wreckage or observing how marine species have transformed these vessels into thriving ecosystems.

diving gibraltar

For those more interested in history, Gibraltar’s waters host incredible wrecks like the SS Rosslyn and SS Excellent. The SS Rosslyn, a Cardiff-built steamer, sank in 1916 after dragging its anchor in a storm. Now lying at a depth of 23 metres, this 350-foot wreck attracts advanced divers eager to explore its remnants. Newer wrecks, like the Seahawk, sunk in 2002, and the Sun Swale, sunk in 2015, are part of Gibraltar’s ongoing reef expansion. These more recent additions are rapidly becoming important habitats, drawing species such as cuttlefish, spider crabs, and lobsters. Each of these wrecks offers divers the chance to experience a fusion of history and nature, with the wrecks evolving into vibrant marine environments over time.

diving gibraltar

Another must-see is the Seven Sisters Marine Conservation Zone (MCZ), known for its rich biodiversity and contribution to the protection of marine species. This area is located close to The Inkwells, where divers can still find remnants of 18th- and 19th-century artifacts, including ceramic pipes, gin bottles, marble fragments, and cod bottles, lending a treasure-hunting aspect to each dive. Exploring this site is like taking a step back in time while being surrounded by a thriving underwater ecosystem.

diving gibraltar

The diving conditions in Gibraltar are just as diverse as the marine life it hosts. British Gibraltar Territorial Waters is home to a wide array of species, far more life than many other areas in the Mediterranean. This impressive biodiversity is largely due to the nutrient-rich waters that flow where the Atlantic and Mediterranean meet. Divers frequently encounter octopuses—Gibraltar’s charismatic species—along with conger eels, moray eels, thornback rays, and spider crabs. Lucky divers, especially during certain times of the year, might even spot Bluefin Atlantic Tuna swimming through the bay while feeding, as well as many other pelagic species. The sheer abundance of fish and the variety of species make each dive an exciting and unique experience, offering something new with every descent.

diving gibraltar

Gibraltar boasts its accessibility to diving and a wealth of different dive sites depending on your diving abilities, qualifications and experience. The South and East side dive sites are fantastic boat dives ranging in depths from 14m to 35m + where you can dive on rocky biogenic reefs with a vast array of marine life.

diving gibraltar

You will need a permit to dive which is easily issued by the Department of the Environment or you can dive with licenced dive operators who will cover this for you. There are also very active local BSAC dive clubs you may wish to get in touch with.

diving gibraltar

Gibraltar offers a full range of diving experiences for everyone, from first-timers to seasoned veterans. Shore diving is conducted six days a week, and on Sundays, you may venture out on a boat to explore some of the more distant wrecks, such as SS Rosslyn and Sun Swale. What makes diving in Gibraltar so accessible is that all our dive sites are within a 15-minute drive/boat ride, making it easy to fit multiple dives into a single day. Whether you’re taking your first steps into the underwater world with a try dive or you’re an advanced diver looking to explore wrecks and caves, we ensure that each dive is tailored to suit your needs and experience level.

diving gibraltar

Operations start early, and by 8:45 AM, dive centre teams are already busy preparing for the day’s dives ensuring everything is in place for divers. A typical dive day begins with a briefing that covers the dive plan, safety procedures, and site management, ensuring that everyone is comfortable and prepared for the adventure ahead. Whether it’s exploring historic wrecks or spotting charismatic marine life, each dive offers something special. After the first dive, you surface, switch tanks, and enjoy a surface interval sharing stories of what has been seen before briefing up for a second dip!

diving gibraltar

In addition to providing unforgettable diving experiences, Gibraltar is deeply committed to marine conservation and scientific research working closely with the Department of the Environment and the University of Gibraltar. Under the water we facilitate the university’s research on projects including coral health assessments and the transplantation of coral species such as Astroides calycularis and various gorgonians. These efforts are critical in preserving Gibraltar’s underwater ecosystems and ensuring that future generations of divers can enjoy its incredible biodiversity. These conservation initiatives are ongoing, and there is regular collaboration with students and researchers on various dive-related projects as they begin the Thesis modules of their degrees.

diving gibraltar

Dive Charters, Gibraltar’s predominant dive centre is also involved in some octopus research, with a project aimed at increasing the octopus population in Gibraltar’s waters. Working with the University of Gibraltar and the Department of the Environment, they have installed artisanal dens designed to encourage octopus to breed and thrive in the area. These dens have proven highly successful, and divers often encounter octopuses up close in their natural habitat. Observing these intelligent, curious creatures in action is always a highlight of our dives, and their growing population is a testament to the ongoing conservation work.

diving gibraltar

Diving in Gibraltar offers an unparalleled blend of history, marine life, and conservation. Whether you’re captivated by centuries-old shipwrecks or amazed by the diversity of species that call these waters home, Gibraltar provides a diving experience like no other and we are proud to share this incredible underwater world with divers from all over the globe. Our dedication to safety, fun, and environmental responsibility ensures that each dive leaves a lasting impression.

diving gibraltar

From beginners to experienced divers, we’ve got something for everyone. With all dive sites just a short ride away the wonders of Gibraltar are waiting for you!

diving gibraltar

CONTACT DIVE WORLDWIDE NOW AND BOOK YOUR OWN GIBRALTAR DIVE ADVENTURE!
Call:+44 (0)1962 302087
Email: reservations@diveworldwide.com
Find out more at www.diveworldwide.com/discover/gibraltar.
All photos: Shaun Yeo
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