Travel Stories
Diving with the Big Boys
Mantas, Mantas and more Mantas…. plus a whole lot more. Christopher Bartlett visits Mozambique to experience the world class diving that the country has to offer
“Hold her straight!” shouted John over the surf. “Ladies on! Hold the nose and keep going!” he encouraged as the skipper jumped on and fired up the twin 85s. “OK, jump on!” Pulling myself along the boat from the nose until my feet touch the sand again I pushed off the bottom and heaved on the side rope, popping onto the pontoon of the RIB. “Feet in foot straps and hold on to the rope” dive guide Carlos reminded us as the RIB surged forward looking for a gap in the rolling surf.
Every launch is like this here, some days are relatively sedate, others provide more fun as the wind and swell make holding the bow like a rodeo. Personally I think surf launches are a great start to the day. Past the backline and the last breakers, we relaxed and zipped across the Indian Ocean parallel to the Mozambican dune-covered coast to our first dive site.
Rolling backwards off the pontoon of the RIB, I delighted in the slow-motion freefall from a negative entry, going straight down with Carlos. “At last” I thought, “this is the life”. Yet I had little time to contemplate the hue of the blue and the visibility, as the instant I looked down I saw a giant manta moving slowly over the cleaning station 20 metres below. It slid graciously and effortlessly through the water, butterflyfish, goldies, and wrasses nibbling it clean of the parasites it had picked up on its oceanic wanderings. We unobtrusively dropped behind a wall next to the cleaning station and watched as a second and then a third manta glided in, whilst a large green turtle settled into a hollow. What a start!
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As we drifted gently along the dive site, the oddly-named Hogwarts, 100 kilos of potato grouper gave us the eye, kingfish motored past, and a school of barracuda zipped along. My grin was so wide I nearly lost my regulator when a unique small-eyed stingray, the largest of all stingrays and only ever seen alive here, 5000 kilometres from the edge of its previously considered range, flapped its two-metre wide wings and slid past nonchalantly. It was undoubtedly the best first dive of a trip ever, and there were some big smiles on the surface, dive leader Carlos beaming even more than normal.
As we closed in on the beach the novices were reminded to hold themselves down on the pontoon as the RIB was beached at high speed. Even after the 100th time it feels like a commando operation and there is a frisson of anticipation waiting for the bump as the boat leaves the sea and rides up the sloping beach to escape the breakers.
450 kilometres north of Maputo, Mozambique’s capital, and half an hour from the historic Portuguese trading town of Inhambane and it’s airport, Tofo is a laid-back village popular for its endless pristine beaches and, of course, SCUBA diving. The warm waters of the Indian Ocean provide sustenance for an abundance of marine life here, but the mantas and the whale sharks are the stars of the show.
On the boat after the first dive, the crew changed our cylinders and we moved close to the coast and started cruising slowly, looking for the biggest fish in the ocean, the beautiful and docile whale shark. Within an hour skipper Ernesto’s eagle eye picked out the outline of one of these giant planktivores. Donning fins and masks we slid over the side and snorkelled alongside a six-metre specimen, the sun’s rays highlighting the white spotted patterns that cover its body from the tip of its tail to its super-wide terminal mouth.
Attracted by the plankton blooms that occur in the vicinity, Junior opened wide to filter out the nutrients with the spongy tissue near its gill arches. As we did our best to keep up, he progressed effortlessly seemingly not moving his tail at all, staying just below the surface for 10 minutes, before he disappeared from view.
And Junior is not alone; according to research scientist and Whale Shark specialist Dr Simon Pierce, Tofo has the world’s largest population of the species, present year round, making it an ideal place for a sighting or two. Non-divers can also enjoy an amazing encounter with this behemoth on a two-hour ocean safari run by Tofo Scuba. I swam with them on four occasions in 14 days of diving. Not bad considering that seven of thise days were spent visiting sites to the north that are not in the vicinity of whale shark action.
There are three dive centres in Tofo, with similar prices, but Tofo Scuba (www.tofoscuba.co.za) has an attractive, purpose-built dive centre on the beach, a training pool, an on-site restaurant, and very professional and friendly staff. They are an eclectic mix of nationalities who make you feel at home straight away, and with smiles everywhere it is impossible to not have a good time. The rates are the best in town too: On a 10-dive package with your own equipment, a dive comes to a very reasonable 22 pounds. Some of the further reefs are subject to a small surcharge, but are well worth it.
To the north, Amazon with its strong currents has a good mix of macrolife, lionfish, honeycomb morays, and groupers, and never has it such a pleasure to be informed that it is time to go to The Office. Michael Scott was happily absent but his chair is often filled by a leopard shark, some whitetips, and the wierdly beautiful bowmouth guitarfish. Colosseum is another northern site and has only ever been dived a handful of times but should be renamed The Hospital for its schools of eye-stripe surgeonfish.
Straight out of the bay lies Giant’s Castle. Dropping next to a Manta cleaning station, we drifted along the battlements as spectre-like silhouettes appeared from the blue, before dropping down to find the crawling sea moth or short dragonfish, morays, and ribbon eels. Often the second dive of the day, it has a relatively short bottom time despite a 90-minute surface interval, but it’s an action packed half-hour. As the bottom sloped downwards, peppered with green coral trees, a large school of pelagic big-eye jacks cruised into view circling us for a minute, and as we rose to our safety stop a school of devil rays ambled past. Giant’s also seems to be a favourite haunt of the small-eye stingray and I was fortunate enough to see it there on two occasions.
To the south, next to the impressive Hogwarts, lies the jewel in Tofo’s crown. The aptly-named Manta Reef is a vibrant piece of underwater eye candy that I would happily dive over and over. From the surface swathes of yellow and striped snapper, red soldierfish, and blue red-fang triggerfish covering the pinnacles can be seen. Dropping into an ampitheatre that starts at 18 metres and bottoms out at 28, it is impossible to know where to look. Whilst taking in the stunning colours of the schooling fish, my eye is caught by a coral whip goby, and then I spy African and Potato Grouper under different overhangs. Back over the edge of the wide bowl, countless mantas (the resident and world-leading manta researcher Dr Andrea Marshall identified 22 different individuals there the previous day), both giant and “normal”, glided gracefully over the numerous cleaning stations, as a myriad of goldies, damsels, and butterflyfish picked them clean. They danced over us, around us, and even between us, as if courting each other. I was certainly smitten. And that was before meeting the monster.
I have seen many a fair-sized giant moray, as thick as a large man’s head, but, standing proudly on one-third of its three metres at the back of a cave like a dragon in its lair, was a beast with a head the size of a horse. Unsurprisingly I could not convince my buddy to go in with a torch to help me focus my camera and give a sense of scale, but the image of this goliath of morays will stay with me until I return, as return I will. Manta Reef is definitely up there with the best.
Tofo has a range of accommodation options from camping to lodges, but right next to the dive centre the independently owned and run Aquaticos Beachside Casitas provide conveniently located, good value for money self-catering with friendly staff who take care of dishwashing and free laundry to boot. A short walk along the beach or sand roads to the market and several restaurants and bars, and an even shorter walk to Tofo on-line for email junkies, or to Dino’s bar for pizza or prawns, everything is close by. Meals at Tofo Scuba, Dino’s, or Fatima’s go for around 8 USD, a pizza will set you back 10 USD. Coraciida is a new place on the other side of the dive shop that costs 72 euros per double per night and Casa do Mar in the centre of the village is arguably the most upmarket place to stay and a double costs $160 USD per night for the room.
The market has fresh fruit and veg, cashews, fish, and basic groceries, and, hidden in the centre behind the colourful batiks, some local lunch eateries serving rice with fish, chicken, or beef cooked on coals for a dollar fifty. If your Portugese or Bitongo isn’t up to much, pointing at a pot and saying “que es, por favor?” will get you a look inside. In the evening ask for Mr Bamboo’s for grilled chicken or fish with a mountain of rice and fresh tomato salsa and wash it down with a 500 ml Manica, a Dois M, or Mozambique’s stout, Laurentina Preta, and you’ll get change from five USD.
It’s perfectly safe to walk around day or night, and the curiously squeeky sand is a delight to stroll along. Just remember to pack the sunscreen, as even in early May the air temperature is in the low thirties, and the sea at 25-27C, although it can drop to the low twenties in July.
As I write this in the bus heading south, taking in the palm trees, acacias, and the villages with cassava crops and roadside vendors, I wonder when I’ll be back. Tofo and its megafauna have enchanted me.
LAM fly between Inhambane and Johannesburg on Mondays, Wednesdays, Fridays, and Sundays, or it’s an eight-hour ride on a shuttle bus departing from outside Fatima’s in Maputo at 5 a.m everyday. The cost is around 16 USD and there is more information at www.mozambiquebackpackers.com. The LAM ticket office is difficult to deal with and it’s best to go through an agent like Indigo Safaris www.indigosafaris.com. They deal with a range of accommodation providers in Tofo and can build in a land safari in the Kruger National Park in South Africa too. A Johannesburg-Inhambane return is around 500 to 600 USD.
Looking for the ultimate destination in 2025? Malta and Gozo are two Mediterranean islands that captivate adventurers with their stunning dive sites, rich cultural heritage, and warm hospitality. Known for crystal-clear waters, beautiful underwater landscapes, and a welcoming culture, these islands are the perfect year-round destination for both divers and non-divers. From the seasoned diver to those new to the underwater world, Malta and Gozo offer something extraordinary, making them a must-visit for anyone ready to explore.
Diving in Malta & Gozo: A World-Class Experience
Repeatedly ranked among the top diving destinations globally, the Maltese Islands offer a diving experience like no other. With over 100 dive sites, a thriving underwater ecosystem, and unmatched visibility, these islands are a diver’s paradise.
Iconic Dive Sites and Wrecks
From beginners to expert divers, Malta and Gozo offer an array of dive sites that showcase the islands’ underwater wonders. Here are some highlights:
The Blue Hole in Gozo
A world-renowned dive site, this natural limestone formation is consistently ranked among the top diving destinations globally. Its dramatic underwater scenery makes it a must-visit for divers of all skill levels.
MV Karwela Wreck
A popular dive site off Gozo, this former passenger ferry lies at 40 meters and is decorated with various artifacts, making it ideal for underwater photography.
HMS Maori
Located off the coast of Valletta, this historic WWII wreck rests in shallow waters at around 14 meters, making it accessible for beginners and full of history for all.
Um El Faroud Wreck
This large Libyan oil tanker, intentionally sunk off Malta’s coast, sits at depths between 15 and 36 meters, offering both challenging penetration dives and beautiful coral growth.
Rozi Tugboat
A picturesque wreck located off Cirkewwa, Malta, where divers can explore a former tugboat at a depth of 32 meters amidst stunning marine life.
P31 Patrol Boat Wreck
This shallow, 18-meter wreck near Comino is great for beginner divers and snorkelers, with abundant fish and clear views.
Santa Maria Caves
Also around Comino, these caves offer breathtaking underwater arches, tunnels, and swim-throughs ideal for intermediate divers.
Double Arch Reef
Located off Gozo, this unique double arch formation is a highlight for advanced divers, rich in marine biodiversity.
The Inland Sea Tunnel
A unique dive where divers pass through a tunnel from an inland sea into the open Mediterranean, experiencing dramatic shifts in light and colour.
Crystal-Clear Waters and Ideal Conditions
The Mediterranean waters surrounding Malta, Gozo, and Comino are famous for their clarity, warmth, and deep azure color, offering visibility of up to 30 meters (100 feet). The archipelago’s ideal diving conditions include over 300 days of sunshine, making it possible to dive year-round. Whether it’s winter or summer, the water temperatures stay comfortably warm, making it one of the few diving destinations in the world with such consistently favourable conditions.
Diverse Diving Programs for All Levels
For those who haven’t yet experienced scuba diving, Malta offers the perfect introduction. With over 50 dive centers across the islands, divers can easily find a certified instructor, and English being an official language ensures smooth communication. For beginners, there are introductory ‘try dives’ and certified courses available, while experienced divers can explore advanced trails and unique dive spots. Even children aged 10 and up can earn their PADI certification, making it a family-friendly diving destination.
Adventure Awaits: Activities for Non-Divers
While Malta and Gozo are a diver’s dream, they also offer an impressive range of activities for non-divers. The pristine Mediterranean Sea, with its inviting coves and scenic coastlines, is ideal for a host of water sports and other outdoor activities:
Snorkeling and Swimming
For a glimpse of Malta’s underwater beauty without the dive gear, snorkeling and swimming are popular ways to enjoy the marine life just below the surface.
Kayaking and Windsurfing
Embrace the island breeze with kayaking and windsurfing—an ideal way to explore the coastline from a new perspective.
Deep-Sea Fishing and Boat Exploration
Discover hidden coves and tranquil bays by boat or experience the thrill of deep-sea fishing with a local guide.
Land Adventures
Beyond water activities, the unique topography of Malta and Gozo makes them perfect for hiking, mountain biking, rock climbing, trail running, and jeep safaris. Whether exploring by foot or vehicle, the stunning views of the Mediterranean are always in sight.
Malta and Gozo’s Cultural Riches: More than Just Diving
Alongside diving, Malta and Gozo offer a wealth of cultural and historical experiences, showcasing their rich history and vibrant Mediterranean lifestyle. Here are some highlights to inspire you to stay longer and fully experience what these islands have to offer.
Valletta: A UNESCO World Heritage Site
The historic city of Valletta, Malta’s capital, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site with a blend of grand baroque architecture, fortresses, and ornate churches. As you wander the streets of Valletta, explore its many landmarks, including the awe-inspiring St. John’s Co-Cathedral, a baroque masterpiece, and the Grand Harbour, with its scenic views and vibrant energy.
Discover the Megalithic Temples and Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum
Malta is home to three UNESCO World Heritage Sites, including the megalithic temples, some of the world’s oldest freestanding structures, and the Ħal Saflieni Hypogeum, an ancient underground necropolis. These sites offer a glimpse into a world thousands of years old, reflecting the deep historical roots of the Maltese islands.
Culinary Delights and Warm Hospitality
Malta and Gozo are also celebrated for their cuisine, a delightful fusion of Mediterranean flavors with Italian, North African, and Middle Eastern influences. From fresh seafood to locally produced wines, visitors are welcomed with warm hospitality and an invitation to savor authentic flavors. The islands’ dining scene spans everything from rustic village eateries to sophisticated gourmet restaurants, ensuring that every meal is memorable.
Festivals, Friendly Locals, and LGBTQ+ Friendly
The Maltese are known for their friendly and welcoming nature, making travellers feel at home. With various cultural festivals, local feasts, and LGBTQ+ friendly spaces, Malta and Gozo truly cater to all travellers.
Why Choose Malta and Gozo in 2025?
Malta and Gozo offer the ultimate dive vacation experience, easily accessible from the UK with a short, three-hour flight. The islands boast year-round warm weather, over 300 days of sunshine, and a wide variety of accommodations that cater to every budget, from luxurious resorts and boutique hotels to charming farmhouses.
Key Reasons to Visit Malta and Gozo in 2025:
Year-Round Warm Weather
Perfect diving and sightseeing conditions await you at any time of the year.
Quick and Easy Access
Only three hours from the UK, making it an ideal short-haul destination.
Diverse Activities and Accommodations
From shore dives and boat dives to cultural and soft adventure activities, Malta and Gozo have something for everyone.
Stunning Historical Sites
With three UNESCO World Heritage Sites and countless historical landmarks, there’s much more to explore beyond the shorelines.
Alluring Culinary Experiences
Sample the vibrant flavours of the Mediterranean while enjoying the warm hospitality of the Maltese people.
Dive Into Malta and Gozo in 2025!
With so much to offer, the Maltese Islands are an exceptional destination for diving and beyond. Discover spectacular reefs, mysterious wrecks, vibrant local culture, and the natural beauty of Malta and Gozo in 2025. Whether it’s the thrill of an underwater adventure, the charm of ancient streets, or the flavors of Mediterranean cuisine, Malta and Gozo promise an unforgettable experience that will keep you coming back year after year.
Book your adventure today and explore more than you ever thought possible in Malta and Gozo!
Book a great value Economy plus fare with British Airways, and benefit from 1 piece of checked luggage per passenger up to 23kg.
Find cheapest fares to Malta – British Airways
You can take most items as part of your checked baggage allowance if it’s packed in a recognised kit bag and doesn’t exceed the maximum size and weight for checked baggage.
Find out more about travelling on British Airways flights and carrying your sports equipment here:
Flying with sports equipment | Information | British Airways
Find out more about diving in Malta and Gozo at www.visitmalta.com/en/diving-in-malta.
Dive Travel Curaçao is thrilled to announce the launch of the Curaçao Dive Vacation Guide – 2024 DEMA Special Edition, an expertly curated resource that unveils the unparalleled dive experiences and vacation possibilities awaiting you in Curaçao. Produced exclusively for the Diving Equipment & Marketing Association (DEMA) Show 2024, this special edition guide is packed with exclusive insights, travel tips, and limited-time DEMA offers that make it easier than ever to explore Curaçao’s stunning underwater landscapes and vibrant culture.
Explore Curaçao’s Unmatched Diving Opportunities
With over 70 diverse dive sites along its southern coastline, Curaçao is a bucket-list destination for divers of all experience levels. From thriving coral reefs and intricate marine ecosystems to historic shipwrecks, the island offers a variety of underwater experiences that are hard to match. The Curaçao Dive Vacation Guide – 2024 DEMA Special Edition provides detailed recommendations for both shore and boat diving, making it a valuable tool for divers seeking the best entry points, pristine reefs, and hidden treasures along the coastline. Whether you are an avid wreck diver, or a beginner interested in shallow reefs, Curaçao has it all.
Uncover Eco-Friendly Dive Resorts and Top Dive Operators
This DEMA 2024-exclusive Curaçao guide goes beyond diving to feature insider information on Curaçao’s eco-friendly accommodations, dive resorts, and top-rated dive operators committed to sustainable dive tourism. From all-inclusive resorts that support coral reef restoration initiatives to charming boutique hotels near prime dive locations, the guide helps travelers find the ideal stay to match their vacation goals. It also spotlights trusted dive operators on the island who prioritize environmental preservation, offering travelers a way to enjoy the underwater world responsibly.
Immerse Yourself in Curaçao’s Culture, Culinary Delights, and Adventure
Curaçao offers a vibrant Caribbean culture rich in history, music, and culinary fusion. The guide reveals Curaçao’s hidden gems, including culinary hotspots, historical sites, and eco-tourism opportunities that will appeal to both divers and non-divers. Visitors can explore the island’s iconic architecture, savor a diverse range of dishes influenced by Caribbean, European, and South American flavors, and embark on land-based eco-adventures, such as hiking, cave exploration, and visiting national parks.
Exclusive DEMA 2024 Specials and Limited-Time Dive Packages
This special edition guide features limited-time DEMA 2024 offers on dive packages, accommodations, and excursions. Travelers who book through Dive Travel Curaçao, or our Curaçao dive travel partners attending DEMA, will have access to exclusive discounts on custom dive vacation packages, making it easier to plan an affordable, high-quality dive trip that fits your preferences. The Curaçao Dive Vacation Guide – 2024 DEMA Special Edition is designed to simplify your travel planning and help you dive deeper into the incredible experiences that Curaçao has to offer.
It’s Time to Dive Curaçao!
Now is the time to discover why Curaçao is a top dive destination in the Caribbean! Dive Travel Curaçao invites you to experience an unforgettable dive vacation with exclusive DEMA 2024 specials tailored just for you. To secure your spot, download a copy of the Curaçao Dive Vacation Guide – 2024 DEMA Special Edition and contact the Dive Travel Curaçao team to start customizing your Caribbean dive adventure today.
For more information and bookings, please visit Dive Curaçao’s website or contact our reservations team directly.
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