Travel Stories
Diving the Coral Triangle
There are many reasons to visit the Indonesian archipelago, but a big reason is diving due to the various locations available. After all, Indonesia is located in the “Coral Triangle” within the marine waters of Indonesia, Malaysia, Papua New Guinea, Philippines, Solomon Islands and Timor-Leste – a region with more than 500 reef-building coral species and an epicenter of marine biodiversity. Geographically, Indonesia has 17,500 islands scattered over both sides of the equator and spread out in an area that is over 700,000 square miles. You’ll find some of the finest reefs in the world there, but the main reason for my trip to Indonesia was to try muck diving in Lembeh Strait – North Sulawesi.
Getting it “Strait”
Just the word “muck” evokes images like the Pines River in Revere, Massachusetts which usually (if not always) has dark, murky water – to see the bottom your face must be less than a foot away from it. But the Pins River is only 50 miles from home. Lembeh Strait in North Sulawesi is over 9,000 miles away. It’s been two years since my last visit to Indonesia but I’ve been anxious to return and see more of the underwater beauty.
Although Lembeh Strait was at the top of my list, I also considered stops on Bunaken Island as well as Raja Ampat, West Papua. Bunaken Island is known to have excellent wall diving and Raja Ampat is known for having very healthy coral reefs and many species of fish.
So, I started planning and lucky for me a Google search turned up www.divesafariasia.co.uk. Ben Stokes, co-owner of the company, was offering a Trans-Indonesian trip that sounded perfect, and it was. I contacted Ben and he later phoned me that evening to go over details as the trip was departing in less than a month, and there was one spot left. Lembeh Strait was not part of his group trip, but he kindly offered to set up that portion for me, and I would simply go and meet the group the following week in Bunaken Island. By mid-November 2013, I was heading to Indonesia for 18 days.
Ben set up Kungkungan Bay Resort for me on the black sand shore of Lembeh Strait. This is a luxury sea level resort with a professionally run dive shop on-site. The accommodations are superb; a beach front cottage just steps from the water. It had a living room and a large separate bedroom that had a walk in stone shower – and its location is picture-perfect. The resort’s restaurant is open 24 hours with a full-service menu. There is wide variety of deliciously prepared food of quality ingredients. They even smoked their own bacon! The professional and friendly staff ensures you will have a pleasant stay at KBR.
Boat and Shore Diving
The dive operation www.divekbr.com is run very smoothly by Manager Stefan Soh. They offer two boat dives in the morning, one afternoon boat dive and a night dive. There is unlimited shore diving from the long dock, so you never get sand in your gear. All you have to do is let the staff know that you will be going on a “shore” dive. They will have all your gear ready for you on the dock where you will be doing a giant stride in the water. When you are done with your dive there is a ladder to climb out. The staff is always there to help with getting in and out of the water. Shore diving from KBR is done at slack water only due to the currents – but it’s really the current that drives great visibility and fosters an abundance of strange and wonderful critters.
The term “muck” has been used to describe the diving in Lembeh Strait, but that’s really a misnomer. Here’ “muck” simply refers to the black sand, lack of natural hiding spots, and a stark environment many critters have adapted to live and thrive in. So it was quick to see that visibility is far from zero.
Lembeh Strait is sometimes called a muck diving mecca – and for good reason – it’s the reason divers from all corners of the globe go search of the most unusual critters. It did not take long to discover that any critter with odd shapes, copious amounts of hair, psychedelic colors, deadly poisons, cunning camouflage (or prefers to carry other marine life on its back) will simply thrive in Lembeh Strait.
My first dive was a site called Palau Abadi located close to shore across from the very busy city port of Bitung. The site is also next to many fishing boats that were moored. My first thought was; “What could possibly be here besides floating debris?” We all did our back roll and descended to the black sandy bottom, but the visibility was far better than I initially pictured in my mind.
The action started right away when my dive guide Liberty pointed out a peacock mantis shrimp, a juvenile painted frog fish, a xeno crab on sea whip, then an orangutan crab, a frog fish, a sea whip goby, a ghost pipefish, a blue ring octopus, a shrimp fish, a Lembeh Sea Dragon, and a Cuttlefish egg with the developing embryo – all in the first twenty minutes of the first dive. The action just continued throughout the day and the remainder of my stay at Kungkungan Bay Resort.
When we visited sites like Jahir I, Aer Bajo II and III, or TK 3, there wasn’t any coral and the bottom was black sand only. These locations offered visibility around 20 feet, but I also saw the strangest marine life. On the other hand, dive sites like Nudi Retreat offered a wall covered in hard coral and yellow soft coral. Dive site Angles Window had a wall covered in hard corals, and at 80 feet there was a swim-through with a resident pigmy seahorse. Across from the resort was a dive site named Pintu Colada where we experienced a sandy slope with critters. After finishing the dive in the shallows, there were several healthy coral heads to swim around in the bright shallow water. These dive sites had visibilities that exceed 50 feet. Pintu Colada was also the site of the Mandarin fish dive. This was my first Mandarin dive and we were not disappointed. Several large Mandarin fish greeted us for their mating ritual – this dusk to night dive was truly spectacular.
During the initial dive briefing, the manager invited us to suggest any particular critters that we wanted to see. I arrived with a wish list of “critters” – 32 in fact – and 75% were nudibranchs. The first day of diving, I just wanted to get in the water to see what it was all about. It was incredible, and my guide showed me so much that I practically forgot about my list. When I looked back at the list that evening, the most sought after for me was the “boxer crab”. I couldn’t stand the thought of going home without seeing it, but the following day during the afternoon dive the boxer crab was unveiled in all its radiance.
I saw things there that I never thought I would ever see. It was almost common to see several Blue ring octopus, different species of pygmy sea horses, ghost, banded and robust pipefish, soft coral crabs just to name a few.
Moving Past Lembeh Strait
The second leg of my trip required a three hour drive to Tasik Ria Resort where I would finally meet up with Ben Stokes from Dive Safari Asia. From this point on, I was traveling with Ben and a group of 15 diving at Bunaken Island, and then off to Raja Ampat.
I only had one day of diving Bunaken Island. The spacious dive boat leaves in the morning and stays out near Bunaken Island all day. Lunch is served for all the divers during the surface interval. The dive boat’s guides give a descriptive briefing and are safety conscious. There were four divers to one guide.
The diving here involved gorgeous wall diving with tiny critters sprinkled about. The wall itself is basically vertical and there is some current to contend with, but the visibility was at least 100 feet. There were huge barrel sponges, gorgonians, and big stands of staghorn coral along with giant turtles. There was also smaller stuff including colorful ascidians, soft coral, nudibranchs and more. It was amazing to look around and see all the life.
Round Three
The third leg of the trip involved a late day flight from Manado, North Sulawesi to Sorong, West Papua. During this two hour flight we crossed the equator into the southern hemisphere. We spent a memorable evening at the one and only Royal Mamberamo Hotel in Sorong.
The following morning, we had a two hour speedboat ride to Mansuar Island in the area known as Raja Ampat and stayed at the Raja Ampat Dive Lodge (www.komodoalordive.com) located on a brilliant white sandy beach with the verdant green mountain backdrop. The cottages were very comfortable with good food and a friendly staff.
The location and setting of this dive resort was absolutely gorgeous. It also had a fantastic house reef, though all of the house reef dives were done by boat (again, sand never ended up in any gear). The crew would have us board the boat at the dock, and the captain would either drop us at the end of the long dock or drop us off further up the reef and then follow our bubbles. We would usually have two guides in the water with two or three divers per guide. The briefings for each dive site were very informative, well-illustrated, and well-planned. Our guides were Dovan and Roy, they did a great job pointing out critters during each dive.
The boat schedule included two dives in the morning and one in the afternoon with a choice of evening or night dive before dinner. After the morning boat dives, we would stop at an uninhabited island or village for our surface interval which included coffee, tea or water along with fresh fruit and baked snacks. One day we visited Arborek Island and had our second boat dive of the day there. It was a fantastic location with a huge variety of marine life. We had macro critters pointed out to us, witnessed giant clams, and watched a school of Napoleon Wrasse foraging in the shallows before parading off to deeper water.
Another fantastic site worth mentioning is Frewins Wall. I could have spent several days at that one site. It started out as a slope with hundreds of tiny yellow sea cucumbers, but the highlight was a deep cut/overhang that the current took us by. This overhang went on and on with soft coral just draping out of the wall with black coral and gorgonians. It ended with a shallow shelf where we spent some time observing anemones with resident clown fish swimming about; just beautiful.
Raja Ampat had a lot of odd critters, and some were difficult to make out. One of the oddities was a hermit crab with tiny anemones growing on its shell, then the half-inch red crab that looked like it didn’t have legs, but closer observation showed me that the legs were clear. Then, in the white sand, Dovan pointed out a sandy colored 2×1/2-inch flat worm-like critter, but a closer look showed me that it was a tiny flat crab – and these were all spotted on the night dives.
Good Planning and Great Guides
This was truly a fantastic trip! Ben really knows how to put a well-organized dive trip together. It was a long journey but he made everything seem effortless. I enjoyed every aspect of this trip and having him as a guide.
Dive Safari Asia run their ‘Trans Indonesia Tour’ twice a year. The next dates for the trip are:
7th – 23rd November 2014
20th March – 5th April 2015
For more information or to book, call 0800 955 0180 or visit www.divesafariasia.com.
Blogs
Dive into Adventure at Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa: The Ultimate Diving Destination in the Maldives
Tucked away in the remote northern Haa Alifu Atoll, Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa is a premier destination for anyone seeking an unforgettable underwater experience. With over 30 dive sites to explore, divers of all levels can witness the unique and mesmerising beauty of the underwater world. Whether you’re a seasoned diver or new to the sport, Hideaway offers an exceptional diving adventure that is not to be missed.
Explore the Beauty Beneath the Surface
Hideaway is perfectly situated near some of the most spectacular dive sites in the Maldives. The dive school and team at Hideaway offer a very personalised experience to ensure each diver gets an interactive, immersive experience.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Unique dive spots such as Theefaridhoo Thila (Heaven and Hell) as one of the 50 best dive sites in the whole of the Maldives, known for its beautiful soft coral gardens.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
As the resort is located next to a channel which gives guests surprise visits from eagle rays, manta rays, guitar sharks and more.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
One of the standout features of diving in the Haa Alifu Atoll is the abundance of rare and exotic marine species. The area is known for sightings of whale sharks, manta rays, turtles, and a variety of colorful reef fish. Diving at Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa offers a rare opportunity to encounter these creatures in their natural habitat, creating lifelong memories for guests.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Whether you’re exploring deep coral gardens, dramatic overhangs, or vibrant reef walls, each dive offers something new and exciting. The visibility in the Maldives is exceptional, often exceeding 30 meters, making it ideal for both underwater photography and general exploration.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Diving for All Levels
At Hideaway, we believe that everyone should have the opportunity to experience the thrill of diving. That’s why we cater to divers of all levels, from beginners to experienced professionals. Our professional dive center, led by expert instructors, offers a range of courses and guided dives. If you’re new to diving, you can start with an introductory course that will teach you the basics of scuba diving in a safe and controlled environment.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
For more experienced divers, we offer advanced dive courses and guided excursions to some of the more challenging dive sites. Our instructors are knowledgeable and passionate about the local marine life, ensuring that every dive is not only safe but also informative and enjoyable.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Exclusive Diving Offer
To make your stay even more unforgettable, Hideaway is offering an exclusive diving package designed to enhance your experience both above and below the water. When you book a minimum 7-night stay, you’ll receive:
- 35% discount on room rates.
- Complimentary diving: 3 dives per person for 2 guests, allowing you to experience the beauty of the Maldives underwater world.
- Free meal plan upgrade: enjoy a complimentary upgrade from Bed & Breakfast to Half Board, or from Half Board to Full Board. Guests who prefer the White Platinum Plan (WPP) can avail it at a discounted rate.
This incredible offer provides the perfect opportunity to experience world-class diving while enjoying all the luxury and comfort that Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa is known for.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Combinable Offers for Even More Value
This diving offer can also be combined with our Anniversary and Honeymoon offers, allowing you to create the perfect celebration package. Whether you’re celebrating a milestone or simply seeking a romantic getaway, this offer ensures that you can enjoy the best of both worlds – luxurious accommodations and unforgettable diving adventures.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Terms & Conditions
- This offer is available exclusively for bookings made through the official Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa website using a specific booking code.
- The offer cannot be combined with other promotions available on the website or through other channels, nor can it be redeemed for cash.
- All dives are subject to weather conditions, ensuring the safety and enjoyment of all guests.
- Black-out dates: This offer is not available from 24th December 2024 to 9th January 2025.
To book this exquisite offer, use the Promo Code: SCUBA24FD
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Hideaway is not just a resort; it’s a sanctuary for those seeking peace, adventure, and luxury. With spacious villas, private pools, and world-class dining options, the resort offers everything you need for a perfect holiday. From tennis, golf, gym, cycling to the exquisite underwater activities, unique dining options, Hideaway has something for everyone. And for diving enthusiasts, it provides an unparalleled opportunity to explore some of the most beautiful dive sites in the world.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Our dive center is fully equipped with state-of-the-art gear, ensuring that every dive is safe, comfortable, and enjoyable. Our instructors are passionate about the underwater world and are eager to share their knowledge with you, whether it’s your first dive or your 100th.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
The Ultimate Dive Adventure Awaits
If you’re looking for an unforgettable diving holiday in the Maldives, look no further than Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa. With over 30 dive sites, unique marine life, and exclusive offers, we provide the ultimate underwater experience. Whether you’re celebrating a special occasion or simply seeking adventure, our diving package offers exceptional value and incredible memories.
Book now through our official website to take advantage of this exclusive offer and prepare for the dive adventure of a lifetime.
Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Call: +960 650-1515
Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com
Exciting news is on the horizon at the beloved dive resorts, Magic Resorts Philippines!
On January 2nd 2005, the journey of Magic Resorts began, when Magic Island opened its doors as one of the first dedicated dive resorts in Moalboal, Cebu. Now, as we look forward to 2025, a significant milestone is on the horizon: Magic Island’s 20th anniversary!
In preparation for this momentous occasion, the resort has recently upgraded their facilities, including renovated bathrooms, ensuring a fresh and modern experience for their guests. The stage is set for a fantastic celebration!
To cherish and celebrate two decades of incredible diving experiences, Magic Resorts will be offering a special 20% anniversary discount to all guests celebrating with them at either Magic Island or its larger sister resort, Magic Oceans in Anda, Bohol, throughout the entire year of 2025!*
NOT CONVINCED YET?
To kick off the anniversary celebration, here are 20 reasons to book your holiday at Magic Island in 2025!
1) 20-year anniversary!
Of course the anniversary is the perfect occasion to stay at Magic Island and the anniversary special offers you to enjoy a stay with 20% discount! Whether you’re a seasoned diver, new to scuba, a past guest, or a new to Magic’s concept, this is an excellent opportunity to experience the magic of Magic Island Dive Resort.
2) Amazing marine life
Moalboal has been a top dive destination in the Philippines for decades, and for a good reason. This laid-back town at the Westcoast of Cebu offers unforgettable experiences for divers and non-divers alike. Located in the Coral Triangle, Moalboal boasts hundreds of coral species and unique critters, but also features unique sights that make it a standout dive destination not just in the Philippines, but globally!
3) Enjoy newly renovated bathrooms first-hand!
In preparation for the 20-year anniversary, Magic Island renovated all bathrooms of the bungalows last August 2024! The new, spacious and modernized bathrooms offer the best comfort during your stay. As a visitor in 2025, you’ll be among the first to enjoy these upgraded amenities with a perfect view.
4) Dive with Whale Sharks the whole year around
Magic Island offers the possibility to dive with Whale Sharks throughout the entire year!
Unlike many other accommodations that only offer snorkeling with the Whale Sharks, Magic Island is accredited to dive with them with their own dive masters, tanks and crew.
5) Easily accessible house reef
Magic Island’s house reef is open 24/7 and easily accessible within only a few steps from the dive center. You are welcome to make an unguided house reef dive any time of day with your buddy. The house reef starts with a sloping area where you can find the resident sea horse and blue ringed octopus among other life, whereafter you’ll reach the amazing wall where you’ll find turtles, nudibranchs and much more!
6) Native-style bungalows with Western features
The modernized bathrooms are a great Western feature in the native looking style bungalows. While the bungalows have their Filipino native style look, with Nipa rooftops, bamboo balconies and panels of Amakan (woven split-bamboo), they have Western amenities such as air conditioning and a minibar.
7) Dive the Sardine Ball the whole year around
One of the reasons why Moalboal became famous for divers in the first place: you can dive the Sardine Run the whole year around! It’s not a seasonal sighting like other places and therefore a very special phenomenon (even for marine biologists). You can dive with over a million sardines while staying at Magic Island every day of the year!
8) Unparalleled service
The excellent staff of Magic Island ensures you have the best time possible. The team members have been part of the Magic journey for many years – some even from day one! The outstanding Philippine hospitality combined with their experience are the perfect ingredients for exceptional service. They’ll remember your name and do whatever they can to make you feel at home from day one.
9) Fully equipped dive center on site
Magic Island Dive Resort has its own fully equipped PADI dive center right on site. The dive center is equipped with 3 compressors (providing nitrox as well), 3 Bangka boats, full sets of rental gear, aluminium tanks with Int. & DIN connection, and an in-house instructor to name a few. Walk down to the dive center in less than a minute after your meal in the restaurant and get ready for diving!
10) Mating Mandarin fish on the house reef every day!
The real signature dive at Magic Island is without a doubt the Mandarin dive. Just a short swim from the dive center leads you to an underwater spectacle that’s nothing short of magical. Every day during sunset, the Mandarin fish emerge from their coral hideaways for their mating ritual. These colourful and beautifully patterned fish are a species of the Dragonet that are rarely seen outside their coral homes except during this special time. A great sighting just in Magic Islands’ backyard and a great challenge for photographers!
11) Beyond regular night dives
In addition to standard night dives, Magic Island elevates the experience with unique offerings like Fluoro dives and bonfire dives, providing a completely different dimension. If conditions permit, you can also embark on black water dives, where you’ll encounter the mysterious and seldom-seen creatures that emerge during night time.
12) Go down with a local expert!
The dive team of Magic Island make your underwater adventures hassle-free and fun.
You don’t have to carry your tanks or set up your gear, they will take care of that for you. The team of trained PADI Dive masters is local and know the area better than anyone. With their experience, incredible eye for detail and sense of humour, you will have the best dive experience!
13) More than 30 dive sites in less than a 25-minute boat ride
On one of the traditionally Bangka boats, Magic Island takes you out diving around the whole peninsula of Moalboal. 30 different dive sites are waiting for you to explore, all within only a 25-minute. Moalboal’s highlight, Pescador Island, is only 10 minutes away!
14) Freshly prepared meals in family-dinner style
The dining area at Magic Island fosters a sense of community with interconnected tables that encourage socializing. Enjoy a diverse selection of freshly prepared local and Western dishes while watching the chefs at work in the open kitchen. Dietary restrictions? Just let them know, and they’ll accommodate your needs with care.
15) Wet adventures above the surface!
Aside from diving, Magic Island offers great daytrips to explore the culture and nature of Cebu Island. One of the absolute highlights is a trip to the Kawasan Waterfalls, where you can choose between a relaxing visit to enjoy the fresh water and stunning views, or an adventurous canyoneering experience with hiking, climbing, jumping, gliding, and swimming.
16) Experience Moalboal in peace
While Moalboal is a popular destination, Magic Island provides a serene escape from the hustle and bustle. Tucked away from busy areas, the resort creates a tranquil oasis where you can relax while still being close to Moalboal’s vibrant life.
17) Suitable for each kind of diver
With just 10 bungalows, Magic Island offers a cozy and intimate setting for all types of travelers — whether you’re in a group, a couple, or traveling solo. The rich marine life and accessible diving conditions make it an ideal destination for divers of all experience levels.
18) Unique signature drinks!
The homely bar at Magic Island offers a range of beverages to enjoy while taking in breathtaking ocean views. Don’t miss the signature drinks made with Ube Cream, a local liqueur that won the World’s Best Cream Liqueur title at the 2022 World Liqueur Awards. Experience the true Filipino fiesta spirit with this exceptional drink.
19) Combine with Magic Oceans
You can extend your wonderful stay at Magic Island elsewhere! Magic Islands newer and bigger sister Magic Oceans in Anda, Bohol opened its doors in 2015, offering you the possibility to get the maximum out of your magical dive trip by combining the two locations. The same ambience, quality of serviced and most importantly: an amazing diving experience!
20) Just because you’ll have a great time!
The reasons to visit Magic Island in 2025 are endless, but the most important one is that you’re guaranteed to have a fantastic time. With exceptional service, friendly and experienced staff, an ideal location, and outstanding diving, Magic Island promises an unforgettable experience.
CONTACT MAGIC RESORTS FOR YOUR QUOTE ON AN UNPARALLELED DIVING HOLIDAY!
Email: reservations@magicresorts.online
Website: www.magicresorts.online
Facebook: www.facebook.com/magicisland.diveresort
Instagram: www.instagram.com/magic_island_dive_resort
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