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Dive Indonesia : Triton Bay Divers Trip Report
The Scuba Place spent January 2023 exploring four different resorts in Indonesia. This is Part Four and their Trip Report on Triton Bay Divers. Read Part One on Lembeh Resort here and Part Two on Murex Bangka here and Part Three on Murex Manado here.
“Remote, and Worth It” is the strap-line for Triton Bay Divers, this tiny island resort literally in the middle of nowhere – read on to find out if our experience agrees with this opening statement!
Most divers will have heard of the Coral Triangle – THE place to be when it comes to the best diving on the Planet. This is a bold statement we agree, and despite the arguments from the fanatical wreck or cold-water divers, in our opinion, it is pretty accurate!
The Birdshead Seascape is considered to be the epicentre of the Coral Triangle, and the three land masses that surround this area are Raja Ampat, Cenderawasih Bay and you guessed it – Triton Bay. Right in the very middle of the very best place to be – it sounds almost too good to be true!
Triton Bay is some 30 nautical miles from Kaimana, and the journey is all part of the Triton experience. A 90-minute speedboat ride through some of the most spectacular scenery you have ever seen. Speeding across some open ocean stretches, and then zipping through the channels between the islands, up close to the cliff face where the jungle competes with the rock for dominance, and the sea erodes the cliffs, making dramatic vistas in every direction. The bagan (fishing) platforms dot the horizon and are about the only hint of other people you will see.
Our crossing had us arriving right at sunset, one of the most spectacular that we have ever seen, and as we came around the final turn into Triton Bay Divers Resort, I can only say that it genuinely had an emotional impact. This place is, quite simply, breath-taking.
Imagine a mountain face, covered in jungle and palms, coming right down to the shoreline where powder-soft white sand borders the lagoon. On that beach, picture a small collection of authentic bungalows on stilts, each separated by palm trees, and each with a small terrace overlooking the bay. This could literally be the place where Bounty adverts were made! Remote – yes. Stunningly beautiful – yes to that too!
Stiff legs after the speedboat ride may have hampered the climbing out of the boat and onto the beach, and then the sand, as soft as flour straight from the mill, made our first few steps awkward, but nothing will take away the memory of arriving here! Bags are carried to your rooms, all of three to four metres away. Unload the dive kit into the crate provided, settle in, and relax. And then relax again, just to make sure you do it properly!
Each bungalow is a detached timber chalet sitting up on blocks with 4 steps (high enough to keep you dry at high tide), that lead to a timber deck – the perfect place to sit and watch the clouds float by. Inside, there is either a king bed or two single beds, a desk and ‘camera’ table, and an open wardrobe, together with a water dispenser. The four poster beds are draped with mosquito nets and a ceiling fan keeps the air moving. The rooms are very well-ventilated with double doors to the front and large windows to each side. The ensuite bathroom to the back is open-air and surrounded by a high wall ensuring total privacy.
We were a little concerned about the lack of air-conditioning, but the building design and warm breezes coming off the sea make this far less of an issue than we anticipated. Leaving the doors open all night was our approach, and this was quite magical – like sleeping in the wild – especially when joined by a snack-hunting vole!
Triton Bay offers full board with three meals a day plus snacks late in the afternoon. Breakfast is cereal or porridge, fresh fruit, toast and preserves, eggs to order, pancakes and other hot items. Tea, coffee, milk, fruit juice and water are always available from early in the morning, which we found excellent, being early risers. Lunch is typically a light meal – a main and dessert, and the evening meal is not dissimilar, but three courses. The style is very much local and authentic, and to us, absolutely delicious! Curries were mildly spiced with a separate dish of sambal always on the table for those who like it hot! Rice and noodles accompany most meals, and those with dietary preferences can be catered for if requested in advance. I ate one of the very best curries I have ever had here!
The pure beauty of this place makes you forget that you are there to dive, but three dive boats – between 6 rooms – are waiting to take you off to over 40 dive sites that can be found anywhere from 5 to 30 minutes away. You get it I am sure – you dive on your own or in very VERY small groups!
The vast majority of the dives are right next to the cliff faces of the small islands and pinnacles that are scattered throughout the area – you drop in on a sheer rock face and descend down to the reef, and then the sand beyond that if you fancy a critter dive – or do both! The maximum depth we hit during our trip was 28 metres – the vast majority of the dives are less than 25 metres, making for some very long dives. The guides are true experts with the keenest of eyesight – it is their backyard, and they know it well, finding subjects to order it seemed. I asked to see a Harlequin Shrimp, and they found four. Tiger Shrimp? Six. Blue-ringed Octopus – two ‘fighting’ and two more on their own, Wobbegongs? At least three – and the list goes on and on!
The reefs are immaculate and covered with huge soft and hard corals, packed to the brim with marine life. There are large rock formations, covered in colour, with overhangs and small caverns – the perfect place for a wobbegong to hide. There are reef shelves, walls, bommies and pinnacles, and then the sandy sea-bed where the critters hang out. This is, in our humble opinion, perhaps the most beautiful underwater landscape we have ever seen, totally untouched by people, and in the healthiest of conditions.
The list of stuff that we saw is endless, but it is safe to say that we saw creatures that we had never seen before on just about every dive. The Triton Bay walking shark, nudibranchs, crabs, squat lobsters, shrimp, wobbegongs, octopi and even 3 species of pygmy seahorse – we saw the lot! And it isn’t just the smaller marine life either – eagle rays, big stingrays, tuna and of course the turtles and wobbegongs, but to add to the list, whalesharks!
The whaleshark excursion is spectacular. An early start sees you navigating the bay under torchlight as you speed out in the dark to the open expanse of Triton Bay towards the fishing grounds. Here, the local bagans (boats with large platforms around them) drop their nets and light the water column, bringing in the bait fish. As the most spectacular sunrise lights up the sky for as far as you can see, pods of dolphins raced to the bagan grounds to join the whalesharks in their daily feeding. These huge animals used to damage the nets, so the fishermen keep back buckets of bait fish and sell them to the dive boats, and then throw the fish back into the water to the waiting whalesharks. To be in the water with these magnificent animals is always a pleasure, but we had our minds totally blown by having four full-size and one juvenile circling around us, feeding right in front of us, even knocking us out of the way! We had dolphins shooting through the group to grab a loose fish or two – the sound of their clicks and whistles was almost deafening!
After an adrenaline-fuelled hour, the beasties had had their fill and slowly vanished off into the distance – this was an experience of a lifetime, and we were totally lost for words on the way back – doing another dive en-route of course!
Night dives were incredibly special too – take five paces from the dive centre and you are in the water. Make five fin-cycles and you are over the reef – staghorn coral everywhere, and the home of the famous Triton Bay walking shark or epaulette shark unique to this area. A huge turtle sleeping in a coral bommie, octopi and squid hunting, and critters a plenty add to the haul, but let’s be honest – it is all about the shark! And at twilight on the house reef you can watch (and attempt to photograph) the mating of a massive school of flasher wrasse.
One of the best things we found about staying at Triton Bay Divers was the surface intervals. Not often something we get excited about, but imagine zipping along the channel to a private, totally isolated beach after your dive. The crew makes hot drinks to order, and biscuits of all sorts were yummy, but the real pleasure was being in the middle of absolutely nowhere – not another person to be seen except your buddy and the dive guides, who give you all the space you want, as it is their break too. Not another boat or plane, just you and the scenery. Our surface intervals got longer and longer each day as we spent ages snorkelling on the shallow reefs – the dive crew literally had to pull us out of the water!
I honestly do not have the words to describe how beautiful and peaceful this place is – a Jurassic landscape, covered with jungle, mountains in the distance, and the softest and whitest of sandy beaches (one is actually pink, but that is another story!) with the most spectacular underwater environment we have ever experienced.
To a certain extent, it pains me to tell this story, as it is a special place to us personally, full of memories. So special we almost don’t want other divers to discover it!!!
It is remote…. Be prepared to totally unplug – there’s no wifi, no satellite tv, and the power is turned off from 11pm to 6am. You’ll hear the birds and the bugs, even the odd small rodent found its way into our bungalow.
But it is so special. Triton Bay Divers delivers not only fabulous diving but an emotional impact. It is truly breathtaking, and I am genuinely thankful that I had the opportunity to experience such a place.
Remote… but Definitely Worth It!
Note: We’ve received an exciting update from Leeza, the owner of Triton Bay Divers. They are currently building two new Garden View guest rooms, a camera room and a compressor room, as well as adding a larger faster speedboat to transport guests to the resort in more comfort. All these new additions are expected to be in place for October 2023!
Key Facts :
- Getting there : Flights with Emirates Airlines to Manado depart from any major UK airport via Dubai and Jakarta or Singapore Airlines via Singapore and Jakarta. On Emirates from London Heathrow it was a 7-hour flight with a quick two-hour layover in Dubai followed by an 8-hour flight to Jakarta. We had a longer layover in Jakarta so we booked a room at FM7 Hotel, a quick 20 minutes from the airport for a much-needed shower and a kip. The comfortable double room was £36 and offers a free shuttle to and from the airport. We visited Sulawesi before heading to Triton Bay. We flew from Manado to Sorong and on to Kaimana. If you’re headed straight to Triton Bay you can fly from Jakarta to Kaimana. We were picked up at the airport by Triton Bay staff and after a quick drive we hopped on the resort boat for the two hour crossing.
- Air temperature : Tropical – average daily temperature throughout the year is 28-30°C, with the humidity at 85-90%. The area has two main seasons, and it is best to visit during the dryer months from October to early June.
- Water temperature : 26-29°C. A 1-3mm full suit or shorty will suit most.
- Visa requirement : Tourist visa is purchased on arrival or online for £30 or IDR 500,000 and is valid for 30 days.
- Health protocols : When we travelled, visitors were mandated to download an app “Pedulilindungi”. This required us to upload our proof of COVID vaccination and booster and approval was received within 24 hours. Upon arrival, we provided a QR code generated by the app, had our temperature taken and then we were off.
- Currency : Indonesian rupiah, US dollars or Euros on resort. We often find the exchange rate is better at the destination country. ATMs and exchange desks are available at the larger airports. There is no card machine (no wifi) so make sure you have adequate cash on hand.
- Electricity : 230V with European style (round pin) two-prong plugs. Our adaptor worked without issue, and remember the power is turned off every night.
- Internet and Wi-Fi : There is little to no wifi at the resort. It’s the best place to totally unplug.
Price Guide: Expect from £4200 per person based on two sharing a Seaview Deluxe bungalow for a 10-night itinerary with full board and 24 dives. Return flights and transfers are included. A marine park fee of 1,000,000Rp (£60) is payable at resort. Other extras include soft drinks, beer and wine, purchased snacks and extra dives.
Our Advice: With a long travel time consider the adding additional destinations in Indonesia to your trip. We visited Sulawesi prior to Triton Bay which made for an amazing and varied diving holiday. Let us help you design your dream dive holiday.
Packing tips :
- Insect repellent : being this close to the water and with the jungle just steps away the mozzies came out at dawn and dusk. There’s always some spray at the bar for guests, but we were happy to have some in our bungalow as well.
- Rechargeable fan(s) : the resort shuts off the power generator at 11pm each night until 6am (or 4am if anyone is headed out to find the whalesharks) so a rechargeable fan or two was a necessity. They were also useful on domestic flights! Amazon has lots of options!
- Snorkel : make sure you tuck your snorkel into your dive bag and take it with you daily! We spent so many surface intervals with our faces in the water! There was always something to see!
Snacks : we grabbed a few snacks at the local airport and the resort was happy to keep the bar fridge for us. Perfect for when that craving hit.
The Scuba Place designs and builds custom scuba diving holidays. With personal knowledge and experience diving in many of our destinations, there is no one better to help build your dream dive holiday. Come Dive with Us!
Call us at 020 3515 9955 or email at reservations@thescubaplace.co.uk
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Exciting news is on the horizon at the beloved dive resorts, Magic Resorts Philippines!
On January 2nd 2005, the journey of Magic Resorts began, when Magic Island opened its doors as one of the first dedicated dive resorts in Moalboal, Cebu. Now, as we look forward to 2025, a significant milestone is on the horizon: Magic Island’s 20th anniversary!
In preparation for this momentous occasion, the resort has recently upgraded their facilities, including renovated bathrooms, ensuring a fresh and modern experience for their guests. The stage is set for a fantastic celebration!
To cherish and celebrate two decades of incredible diving experiences, Magic Resorts will be offering a special 20% anniversary discount to all guests celebrating with them at either Magic Island or its larger sister resort, Magic Oceans in Anda, Bohol, throughout the entire year of 2025!*
NOT CONVINCED YET?
To kick off the anniversary celebration, here are 20 reasons to book your holiday at Magic Island in 2025!
1) 20-year anniversary!
Of course the anniversary is the perfect occasion to stay at Magic Island and the anniversary special offers you to enjoy a stay with 20% discount! Whether you’re a seasoned diver, new to scuba, a past guest, or a new to Magic’s concept, this is an excellent opportunity to experience the magic of Magic Island Dive Resort.
2) Amazing marine life
Moalboal has been a top dive destination in the Philippines for decades, and for a good reason. This laid-back town at the Westcoast of Cebu offers unforgettable experiences for divers and non-divers alike. Located in the Coral Triangle, Moalboal boasts hundreds of coral species and unique critters, but also features unique sights that make it a standout dive destination not just in the Philippines, but globally!
3) Enjoy newly renovated bathrooms first-hand!
In preparation for the 20-year anniversary, Magic Island renovated all bathrooms of the bungalows last August 2024! The new, spacious and modernized bathrooms offer the best comfort during your stay. As a visitor in 2025, you’ll be among the first to enjoy these upgraded amenities with a perfect view.
4) Dive with Whale Sharks the whole year around
Magic Island offers the possibility to dive with Whale Sharks throughout the entire year!
Unlike many other accommodations that only offer snorkeling with the Whale Sharks, Magic Island is accredited to dive with them with their own dive masters, tanks and crew.
5) Easily accessible house reef
Magic Island’s house reef is open 24/7 and easily accessible within only a few steps from the dive center. You are welcome to make an unguided house reef dive any time of day with your buddy. The house reef starts with a sloping area where you can find the resident sea horse and blue ringed octopus among other life, whereafter you’ll reach the amazing wall where you’ll find turtles, nudibranchs and much more!
6) Native-style bungalows with Western features
The modernized bathrooms are a great Western feature in the native looking style bungalows. While the bungalows have their Filipino native style look, with Nipa rooftops, bamboo balconies and panels of Amakan (woven split-bamboo), they have Western amenities such as air conditioning and a minibar.
7) Dive the Sardine Ball the whole year around
One of the reasons why Moalboal became famous for divers in the first place: you can dive the Sardine Run the whole year around! It’s not a seasonal sighting like other places and therefore a very special phenomenon (even for marine biologists). You can dive with over a million sardines while staying at Magic Island every day of the year!
8) Unparalleled service
The excellent staff of Magic Island ensures you have the best time possible. The team members have been part of the Magic journey for many years – some even from day one! The outstanding Philippine hospitality combined with their experience are the perfect ingredients for exceptional service. They’ll remember your name and do whatever they can to make you feel at home from day one.
9) Fully equipped dive center on site
Magic Island Dive Resort has its own fully equipped PADI dive center right on site. The dive center is equipped with 3 compressors (providing nitrox as well), 3 Bangka boats, full sets of rental gear, aluminium tanks with Int. & DIN connection, and an in-house instructor to name a few. Walk down to the dive center in less than a minute after your meal in the restaurant and get ready for diving!
10) Mating Mandarin fish on the house reef every day!
The real signature dive at Magic Island is without a doubt the Mandarin dive. Just a short swim from the dive center leads you to an underwater spectacle that’s nothing short of magical. Every day during sunset, the Mandarin fish emerge from their coral hideaways for their mating ritual. These colourful and beautifully patterned fish are a species of the Dragonet that are rarely seen outside their coral homes except during this special time. A great sighting just in Magic Islands’ backyard and a great challenge for photographers!
11) Beyond regular night dives
In addition to standard night dives, Magic Island elevates the experience with unique offerings like Fluoro dives and bonfire dives, providing a completely different dimension. If conditions permit, you can also embark on black water dives, where you’ll encounter the mysterious and seldom-seen creatures that emerge during night time.
12) Go down with a local expert!
The dive team of Magic Island make your underwater adventures hassle-free and fun.
You don’t have to carry your tanks or set up your gear, they will take care of that for you. The team of trained PADI Dive masters is local and know the area better than anyone. With their experience, incredible eye for detail and sense of humour, you will have the best dive experience!
13) More than 30 dive sites in less than a 25-minute boat ride
On one of the traditionally Bangka boats, Magic Island takes you out diving around the whole peninsula of Moalboal. 30 different dive sites are waiting for you to explore, all within only a 25-minute. Moalboal’s highlight, Pescador Island, is only 10 minutes away!
14) Freshly prepared meals in family-dinner style
The dining area at Magic Island fosters a sense of community with interconnected tables that encourage socializing. Enjoy a diverse selection of freshly prepared local and Western dishes while watching the chefs at work in the open kitchen. Dietary restrictions? Just let them know, and they’ll accommodate your needs with care.
15) Wet adventures above the surface!
Aside from diving, Magic Island offers great daytrips to explore the culture and nature of Cebu Island. One of the absolute highlights is a trip to the Kawasan Waterfalls, where you can choose between a relaxing visit to enjoy the fresh water and stunning views, or an adventurous canyoneering experience with hiking, climbing, jumping, gliding, and swimming.
16) Experience Moalboal in peace
While Moalboal is a popular destination, Magic Island provides a serene escape from the hustle and bustle. Tucked away from busy areas, the resort creates a tranquil oasis where you can relax while still being close to Moalboal’s vibrant life.
17) Suitable for each kind of diver
With just 10 bungalows, Magic Island offers a cozy and intimate setting for all types of travelers — whether you’re in a group, a couple, or traveling solo. The rich marine life and accessible diving conditions make it an ideal destination for divers of all experience levels.
18) Unique signature drinks!
The homely bar at Magic Island offers a range of beverages to enjoy while taking in breathtaking ocean views. Don’t miss the signature drinks made with Ube Cream, a local liqueur that won the World’s Best Cream Liqueur title at the 2022 World Liqueur Awards. Experience the true Filipino fiesta spirit with this exceptional drink.
19) Combine with Magic Oceans
You can extend your wonderful stay at Magic Island elsewhere! Magic Islands newer and bigger sister Magic Oceans in Anda, Bohol opened its doors in 2015, offering you the possibility to get the maximum out of your magical dive trip by combining the two locations. The same ambience, quality of serviced and most importantly: an amazing diving experience!
20) Just because you’ll have a great time!
The reasons to visit Magic Island in 2025 are endless, but the most important one is that you’re guaranteed to have a fantastic time. With exceptional service, friendly and experienced staff, an ideal location, and outstanding diving, Magic Island promises an unforgettable experience.
CONTACT MAGIC RESORTS FOR YOUR QUOTE ON AN UNPARALLELED DIVING HOLIDAY!
Email: reservations@magicresorts.online
Website: www.magicresorts.online
Facebook: www.facebook.com/magicisland.diveresort
Instagram: www.instagram.com/magic_island_dive_resort
Diving in Gibraltar is an experience that truly sets itself apart. Situated at the confluence of the Atlantic and Mediterranean, it offers an underwater world rich in both marine life and history. Whether you’re a complete novice or a seasoned diver, Gibraltar is ready to take you on an unforgettable journey beneath the waves.
One of the most remarkable aspects of diving in Gibraltar is the artificial reef project. Over the years, several ships have been deliberately sunk to create vibrant underwater habitats. Among the most popular sites are the Spanish Barges, 482M, and Batty’s Barge, all located in the local favourite, Camp Bay. The Spanish Barges are a series of four wrecks, two of which were sunk as part of Gibraltar’s artificial reef programme in the 1980s. They rest at varying depths, ranging from 7 to 22 metres, making them accessible for divers of all skill levels. These wrecks, now teeming with marine life such as octopuses, conger eels, and nudibranchs, offer something for every diver, whether they enjoy swimming through wreckage or observing how marine species have transformed these vessels into thriving ecosystems.
For those more interested in history, Gibraltar’s waters host incredible wrecks like the SS Rosslyn and SS Excellent. The SS Rosslyn, a Cardiff-built steamer, sank in 1916 after dragging its anchor in a storm. Now lying at a depth of 23 metres, this 350-foot wreck attracts advanced divers eager to explore its remnants. Newer wrecks, like the Seahawk, sunk in 2002, and the Sun Swale, sunk in 2015, are part of Gibraltar’s ongoing reef expansion. These more recent additions are rapidly becoming important habitats, drawing species such as cuttlefish, spider crabs, and lobsters. Each of these wrecks offers divers the chance to experience a fusion of history and nature, with the wrecks evolving into vibrant marine environments over time.
Another must-see is the Seven Sisters Marine Conservation Zone (MCZ), known for its rich biodiversity and contribution to the protection of marine species. This area is located close to The Inkwells, where divers can still find remnants of 18th- and 19th-century artifacts, including ceramic pipes, gin bottles, marble fragments, and cod bottles, lending a treasure-hunting aspect to each dive. Exploring this site is like taking a step back in time while being surrounded by a thriving underwater ecosystem.
The diving conditions in Gibraltar are just as diverse as the marine life it hosts. British Gibraltar Territorial Waters is home to a wide array of species, far more life than many other areas in the Mediterranean. This impressive biodiversity is largely due to the nutrient-rich waters that flow where the Atlantic and Mediterranean meet. Divers frequently encounter octopuses—Gibraltar’s charismatic species—along with conger eels, moray eels, thornback rays, and spider crabs. Lucky divers, especially during certain times of the year, might even spot Bluefin Atlantic Tuna swimming through the bay while feeding, as well as many other pelagic species. The sheer abundance of fish and the variety of species make each dive an exciting and unique experience, offering something new with every descent.
Gibraltar boasts its accessibility to diving and a wealth of different dive sites depending on your diving abilities, qualifications and experience. The South and East side dive sites are fantastic boat dives ranging in depths from 14m to 35m + where you can dive on rocky biogenic reefs with a vast array of marine life.
You will need a permit to dive which is easily issued by the Department of the Environment or you can dive with licenced dive operators who will cover this for you. There are also very active local BSAC dive clubs you may wish to get in touch with.
Gibraltar offers a full range of diving experiences for everyone, from first-timers to seasoned veterans. Shore diving is conducted six days a week, and on Sundays, you may venture out on a boat to explore some of the more distant wrecks, such as SS Rosslyn and Sun Swale. What makes diving in Gibraltar so accessible is that all our dive sites are within a 15-minute drive/boat ride, making it easy to fit multiple dives into a single day. Whether you’re taking your first steps into the underwater world with a try dive or you’re an advanced diver looking to explore wrecks and caves, we ensure that each dive is tailored to suit your needs and experience level.
Operations start early, and by 8:45 AM, dive centre teams are already busy preparing for the day’s dives ensuring everything is in place for divers. A typical dive day begins with a briefing that covers the dive plan, safety procedures, and site management, ensuring that everyone is comfortable and prepared for the adventure ahead. Whether it’s exploring historic wrecks or spotting charismatic marine life, each dive offers something special. After the first dive, you surface, switch tanks, and enjoy a surface interval sharing stories of what has been seen before briefing up for a second dip!
In addition to providing unforgettable diving experiences, Gibraltar is deeply committed to marine conservation and scientific research working closely with the Department of the Environment and the University of Gibraltar. Under the water we facilitate the university’s research on projects including coral health assessments and the transplantation of coral species such as Astroides calycularis and various gorgonians. These efforts are critical in preserving Gibraltar’s underwater ecosystems and ensuring that future generations of divers can enjoy its incredible biodiversity. These conservation initiatives are ongoing, and there is regular collaboration with students and researchers on various dive-related projects as they begin the Thesis modules of their degrees.
Dive Charters, Gibraltar’s predominant dive centre is also involved in some octopus research, with a project aimed at increasing the octopus population in Gibraltar’s waters. Working with the University of Gibraltar and the Department of the Environment, they have installed artisanal dens designed to encourage octopus to breed and thrive in the area. These dens have proven highly successful, and divers often encounter octopuses up close in their natural habitat. Observing these intelligent, curious creatures in action is always a highlight of our dives, and their growing population is a testament to the ongoing conservation work.
Diving in Gibraltar offers an unparalleled blend of history, marine life, and conservation. Whether you’re captivated by centuries-old shipwrecks or amazed by the diversity of species that call these waters home, Gibraltar provides a diving experience like no other and we are proud to share this incredible underwater world with divers from all over the globe. Our dedication to safety, fun, and environmental responsibility ensures that each dive leaves a lasting impression.
From beginners to experienced divers, we’ve got something for everyone. With all dive sites just a short ride away the wonders of Gibraltar are waiting for you!
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