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Jim & Cary Yanny’s Guide to Diving in Indonesia

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Part 2: Manado and Bunaken National Park

Coelacanth? Really?

Jim 17The National Geographic TV documentary I was watching was following an expedition to exotic Indonesia to search for one of earth’s natural unicorns, the coelacanth. This truly prehistoric fish had previously been thought to only exist in the waters off Southern Africa. That was until an eminent marine biologist, Dr Mark Erdmann, had been alerted of an amazing discovery in a local fisherman’s net; a large, chunky fish measuring two metres in length, with sharp teeth, stumpy tail fin and thick, leathery scales. Mark couldn’t believe what he was hearing and rushed to Manado Fish Market to see for himself…and there it was… a coelacanth. In Indonesia!

Soon the world of marine biology was on fire. This was the first time a coelacanth had been seen in Asia. In fact, it was the first time for one to be known to live anywhere other than South Africa, Mozambique or the Comoro Islands off Madagascar. The discovery was truly sensational. So big that it contributed to the group of five ‘Bunaken’ islands lying just offshore from Manado Bay being made one of Indonesia’s eighteen national parks in 1991, which it has been ever since.

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Jim 6As I watched that show telling the story of the research vessel plying Bunaken’s waters, the crew dropping ROVs over the side as they swept the steep coral walls in search of this most elusive of creatures, I turned and looked out of my living room window at the blue sea beyond at an impressive sight of a mid-sea volcano rising from the 2000m-deep sea to an azure sky filled with gathering angry storm clouds. Jim 3The volcano is Manado Tua, or ‘Old Manado’. To its east is Bunaken, low-lying and the largest of this archipelago of five islands. A strange feeling passed through me as I realised how incredible it was, and how privileged we were, to be living in a place that warranted the great Nat Geo to send a documentary film crew to! Not only that, but to be running a dive centre that dived the very same islands Nat Geo was here to explore on a daily basis!

As the documentary revealed, in two whole weeks of searching with their high-tech subs, the Nat Geo crew didn’t find a single coelacanth. Despondent, and with a last throw of the dice before boarding their plane back home, they abandoned the deeper waters around Bunaken’s islands and dropped an ROV next to a fringing reef on the North Sulawesi mainland coast, just down the road from our dive centre. There, at about 200m depth, they found two coelacanths in a cave. It was even more bizarre to think that we had probably been driving our boat over them all these years without knowing it. (NB coelacanths live in deep places. Don’t plan a dive holiday to see them!)

Jim 11Manado is where we did our first ever dive in Indonesia back in 1999 on a dive site on Manado Tua volcano, ‘Muka Gereja’, meaning ‘in front of the church’. The site lives up to its name; coming up from a glorious half-light dive on an extensive hard coral field swept by schools of fusiliers and anemones housing many different species of clown fish, we’ll never forget the sights and sounds that greeted us as we hit the surface. It was a sunny Sunday morning and the sea was as flat as the proverbial pancake, so we inflated our BCDs and pulled off our masks to share our enjoyment of the dive with each other as we gently finned away from the reef to our approaching dive boat. In front of us was an 800m high volcano covered in palm trees. At water level on the coral sand beach was a little white church built in a Dutch or Portuguese style – not sure which – but it was all spires and crosses and its bells were ringing out calling its congregation to prayer. A pig ran down the beach past the church grunting so loudly that we could easily hear it from 200m away. The sun was hot and we realised we were in a rare and special place and time. So special, in fact, that we went back to Manado the very next year and ended up living there until 2012.

As I’ve said, Bunaken National Park is made up of the five islands of Bunaken, Manado Tua, Siladen, Montehage and Nain plus the southern Park section on the mainland of Sulawesi Island. Most of the diving around these populated islands is on coral-encrusted vertical walls. If you like drift diving you’ll love Bunaken as nearly all dives are done on the drift with the dive boat following your bubbles to pick you up wherever you surface*. Nearly anyone who’s dived Bunaken will tell you that this makes for a very lazy, relaxing and enjoyable dive experience. (If you’re looking for loads of exercise on your dive trip, this is not the place for you!) Jim 9The reefs are dotted with enormous barrel sponges on the vertical sections and reef sharks, eagle rays, red tooth triggerfish, pyramid butterflyfish and schools of jacks can be spotted there. The ‘shoulder’ of the reef, from about 10m to the surface, is simply incredible in terms of coral coverage and sheer beauty. It’s certainly one of the most colourful sites we’ve ever seen underwater; the soft coral is home to clouds of thousands of damselfish, anthias, sergeant majors and clownfish. As the reef comes so close to the surface, it’s also a perfect spot for families with snorkellers (but don’t expect a developed holiday destination with entertainment laid on for the kids. North Sulawesi is a ‘real place’; if your kids like watching Nat Geo Channel go ahead and book a holiday). In the deep waters of Manado Bay, between the mainland and the islands, you can often spot pods of dolphin or pilot whale. There’s even occasional sightings of sperm whale and orca in the bay during their migration time.

Jim 1The Southern section of Bunaken National Park offers some great sites full of critters and colourful smaller coral walls and gardens. (Dr Erdmann and his associate Dr Gerry Allen conducted an extensive scientific fish survey in the Southern section a couple of years ago and counted so many different fish species here that it now ranks in third place on the fishy variety scale – worldwide!)

Jim 8Although Manado can be dived year-round, the best sea conditions and most vibrant colours are experienced during the dry season months of April to Oct/Nov. Climate is hot and humid with air temperatures in the 28-31C range and water between 26-29C.

Manado is the capital of North Sulawesi province of Indonesia. North Sulawesi offers excellent resorts and dive centres to round off the offering on the ground. Getting there is comfortable with flights on Singapore Air/SilkAir via Singapore Changi Airport and you can combine a stay in Manado with arguably the world’s best ‘muck’ diving at North Sulawesi’s other jewel, the famous Lembeh Strait. Or even combo further afield with Indonesia’s other iconic dive spots of Raja Ampat, Bali or Komodo (all coming in future editions of our Indonesian dive guide).

* For safety reasons, Eco Divers Manado operates a strict time-limit policy of maximum 60 minutes on drift-dives. All guests are advised to carry a DSMB.

For more information, visit www.diversetravel.co.uk/destinations/indonesia.

A few moons ago, Jim was General Manager of Emperor Divers Red Sea, where Cary was Senior Instructor. Later they moved to Indonesia to establish and run award-winning dive centre and resort, Eco Divers, before returning to the UK to launch Diverse Travel. Cary also runs a photographic business and is the Photo Pro, often leading photographic trips to exotic destinations, most recently to South Africa and Mozambique. Jim and Cary’s driving passion is to deliver the best personalised travel service available. That same philosophy shines through Diverse Travel and sees clients return again and again to book their next holiday.

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Santa Divers take the Plunge for Charity

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santa divers

Ho Ho Ho! Vobster Quay’s recording-breaking charity Santa diving event returns on Sunday 15th December 2024 for another round of festive fundraising frivolities. Run in aid of the Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI) and Help For Heroes, this ever-popular annual fundraising event aims to raise sack-loads of cash for these two very deserving charities.

Divers of all levels are invited to grab their Santa outfits – and as much festive cheer as they can muster – and head down to Vobster Quay near Mells, Somerset for a mass sponsored Santa dive in aid of charity. In previous years, the event has attracted divers from the far corners of the UK to join in the festive merriment for a final festive dive before the Christmas and New Year break. Back in 2015, the event smashed the world record for the most Santa divers with 188 divers taking to the waters donning their festive finery – a record that remains unbeaten to this day!

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Vobster Santas isn’t just about setting records – it’s also about raising some serious cash for charity. Vobster Quay encourages all divers to get into the spirit of the season to raise much-needed funds for two very deserving charities – the Royal National Lifeboat Institution (RNLI) and Help For Heroes.

Through individual sponsorship and online donations, divers can invite their friends, family and work colleagues to sponsor them to plunge into the balmy waters of Vobster Quay dressed in full festive finery. Since the very first Santa dive in 2007, the event has raised over £52,000 for charity. “It’s been over 17 years since the very first charity Santa dive took place at Vobster Quay and every year the event just keeps getting bigger and better” enthused Vobster Quay owner, Amy Stanton.

“Vobster Santas is a great way for divers to say a massive thank you to the both the RNLI and Help For Heroes – two very deserving charities close to our hearts. We’re immensely proud of all that Vobster Santas has achieved and hope that even more divers will join this year’s event on Sunday 15th December. I’m confident that we can make Vobster Santas 2024 the biggest yet!”.

Divers wishing to participate can get involved by simply registering their attendance at
www.vobster.com/event-vobstersantas.php.

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Dive into Adventure at Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa: The Ultimate Diving Destination in the Maldives

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Maldives

Tucked away in the remote northern Haa Alifu Atoll, Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa is a premier destination for anyone seeking an unforgettable underwater experience. With over 30 dive sites to explore, divers of all levels can witness the unique and mesmerising beauty of the underwater world. Whether you’re a seasoned diver or new to the sport, Hideaway offers an exceptional diving adventure that is not to be missed.

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Explore the Beauty Beneath the Surface

Hideaway is perfectly situated near some of the most spectacular dive sites in the Maldives. The dive school and team at Hideaway offer a very personalised experience to ensure each diver gets an interactive, immersive experience.

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Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com

Unique dive spots such as Theefaridhoo Thila (Heaven and Hell) as one of the 50 best dive sites in the whole of the Maldives, known for its beautiful soft coral gardens.

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Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com

As the resort is located next to a channel which gives guests surprise visits from eagle rays, manta rays, guitar sharks and more.

Maldives

Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com

One of the standout features of diving in the Haa Alifu Atoll is the abundance of rare and exotic marine species. The area is known for sightings of whale sharks, manta rays, turtles, and a variety of colorful reef fish. Diving at Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa offers a rare opportunity to encounter these creatures in their natural habitat, creating lifelong memories for guests.

Maldives

Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com

Whether you’re exploring deep coral gardens, dramatic overhangs, or vibrant reef walls, each dive offers something new and exciting. The visibility in the Maldives is exceptional, often exceeding 30 meters, making it ideal for both underwater photography and general exploration.

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Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com

Diving for All Levels

At Hideaway, we believe that everyone should have the opportunity to experience the thrill of diving. That’s why we cater to divers of all levels, from beginners to experienced professionals. Our professional dive center, led by expert instructors, offers a range of courses and guided dives. If you’re new to diving, you can start with an introductory course that will teach you the basics of scuba diving in a safe and controlled environment.

Maldives

Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com

For more experienced divers, we offer advanced dive courses and guided excursions to some of the more challenging dive sites. Our instructors are knowledgeable and passionate about the local marine life, ensuring that every dive is not only safe but also informative and enjoyable.

Maldives

Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com

Exclusive Diving Offer

To make your stay even more unforgettable, Hideaway is offering an exclusive diving package designed to enhance your experience both above and below the water. When you book a minimum 7-night stay, you’ll receive:

  • 35% discount on room rates.
  • Complimentary diving: 3 dives per person for 2 guests, allowing you to experience the beauty of the Maldives underwater world.
  • Free meal plan upgrade: enjoy a complimentary upgrade from Bed & Breakfast to Half Board, or from Half Board to Full Board. Guests who prefer the White Platinum Plan (WPP) can avail it at a discounted rate.

This incredible offer provides the perfect opportunity to experience world-class diving while enjoying all the luxury and comfort that Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa is known for.

Maldvies

Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com

Combinable Offers for Even More Value

This diving offer can also be combined with our Anniversary and Honeymoon offers, allowing you to create the perfect celebration package. Whether you’re celebrating a milestone or simply seeking a romantic getaway, this offer ensures that you can enjoy the best of both worlds – luxurious accommodations and unforgettable diving adventures.

Maldives

Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com

Terms & Conditions

  • This offer is available exclusively for bookings made through the official Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa website using a specific booking code.
  • The offer cannot be combined with other promotions available on the website or through other channels, nor can it be redeemed for cash.
  • All dives are subject to weather conditions, ensuring the safety and enjoyment of all guests.
  • Black-out dates: This offer is not available from 24th December 2024 to 9th January 2025.

To book this exquisite offer, use the Promo Code: SCUBA24FD

Maldives

Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com

Hideaway is not just a resort; it’s a sanctuary for those seeking peace, adventure, and luxury. With spacious villas, private pools, and world-class dining options, the resort offers everything you need for a perfect holiday. From tennis, golf, gym, cycling to the exquisite underwater activities, unique dining options, Hideaway has something for everyone. And for diving enthusiasts, it provides an unparalleled opportunity to explore some of the most beautiful dive sites in the world.

 

Maldives

Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com

Our dive center is fully equipped with state-of-the-art gear, ensuring that every dive is safe, comfortable, and enjoyable. Our instructors are passionate about the underwater world and are eager to share their knowledge with you, whether it’s your first dive or your 100th.

Maldives

Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com / Call: +960 650-1515 / Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com

The Ultimate Dive Adventure Awaits

If you’re looking for an unforgettable diving holiday in the Maldives, look no further than Hideaway Beach Resort & Spa. With over 30 dive sites, unique marine life, and exclusive offers, we provide the ultimate underwater experience. Whether you’re celebrating a special occasion or simply seeking adventure, our diving package offers exceptional value and incredible memories.

Maldives

Book now through our official website to take advantage of this exclusive offer and prepare for the dive adventure of a lifetime.

Email: reservations@hideawaybeachmaldives.com

Call: +960 650-1515

Website: www.hideawaybeachmaldives.com

 

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